Best oil for 98 Expedition 230,000miles?

[sewagerat]

I just purchased a used 98 Ford Expedition with the 5.4V8 that has 230,000 miles on it. I have no idea about the history of this SUV. I plan on using it daily to go to work ( 1 mile each way ) and to take my daughter to daycare daily ( 3 miles each way ) for a total of 8 miles/day. Occasional weekend drives of 75 - 80 miles/day.
I am thinking about using Pennzoil high mileage 5W-30 ( first oil change because I already have it and then pennzoil high mileage 5W-20 after that) with a FL-820S motorcraft oil filter. Plan on changing my oil every 3,000 miles or 6 months whichever is first due to short trips. I live in North central PA where it gets pretty cold in the winter. What do you guys think of the oil/filter combination.

 

[Rat407]

Sounds like a good plan. You did your homework and that should work out well for you.

 

[chubbs1]

Originally Posted By: Rat407
Sounds like a good plan. You did your homework and that should work out well for you.


+1

 

[SwampSurvivor]

Watch that transmission!

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: Miller88
Watch that transmission!


Huh?

It has either the 4R75W or the 4R100, both of which are incredibly robust.

 

[lexus114]

Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Originally Posted By: Miller88
Watch that transmission!


Huh?

It has either the 4R75W or the 4R100, both of which are incredibly robust.



I`d still be concerned about it with that kind of millage. I dont care what trans it has, it`s still an automatic. Think of all those shifts it`s had already. At the very least I would service it.

 

[MarkStock]

Very good thinking. I would also consider a couple of other things.

1) Use a PureOne or Bosch Premium filter to maximize cleaning

2) Keep an eye on the color of the oil. If it turns black very quickly, you may be removing accumulated build up.

All Pennzoil oils have similar detergent levels, the only one that would clean more would be Ultra.

So if after this fill you want more cleaning, then switch to Ultra.

3) Your short trips suggest using an 0w20 or full syn 5w20 would be better than HM syn blend 5w20.

Synthetic flows better when cold, even in the same weight.

Ultra 5w20 would clean more and flow better than HM 5w20.
Platinum 0w20 would clean the same as HM and flow even better than Ultra 5w20

4) Throw in a bottle of Techron concentrate or Redline or Gumout Regane / All in One (all according to their dosing instructions). Keep adding until you feel no more performance improvement either power or mpg

5) Clean the throttle body

6) Check all fluids

 

[skyship]

Originally Posted By: sewagerat
I just purchased a used 98 Ford Expedition with the 5.4V8 that has 230,000 miles on it. I have no idea about the history of this SUV. I plan on using it daily to go to work ( 1 mile each way ) and to take my daughter to daycare daily ( 3 miles each way ) for a total of 8 miles/day. Occasional weekend drives of 75 - 80 miles/day.
I am thinking about using Pennzoil high mileage 5W-30 ( first oil change because I already have it and then pennzoil high mileage 5W-20 after that) with a FL-820S motorcraft oil filter. Plan on changing my oil every 3,000 miles or 6 months whichever is first due to short trips. I live in North central PA where it gets pretty cold in the winter. What do you guys think of the oil/filter combination.


Firstly just use the cheapest major brand HM 5/30 and don't bother with the 5/20 as it's a tad thin for a high mileage car. If you don't have any oil leaks then there is no need for an HM oil, just use a good major brand 5/30 conventional or part synthetic.
Top quality oil filters are worth the extra money and the 3K mile OCI for severe service considerations sounds correct, although you could consider only changing the filter alternate oil changes if it is good for 6K miles. Try and get a good trip on the highway Sunday mornings to help clean things out.
If it gets real cold in winter try an 0/30 or better still fit a simple stick on sump heater if possible. They reduce cold start wear and help the electrics a lot more than expensive 0W oil and save fuel.
A once a year UOA is worth looking at to check for fuel, coolant or low TBN related trouble. It might also allow an extension of the OCI, which will be more likely if you can avoid cold starts by cooking the oil up as short trips with the mixture too rich causes fuel dillution of the oil.
If you want to save fuel fit a bypass switch and warning light to the cold start electronics. It's a job for a good car electrical geek often done by taxi owners. It allows manual mixture control, so if the first part of a trip is not stop start in traffic you can switch to lean before the engine is warm, but keep some power on or the engine stalls. Good for the engine if it is practical and good for the wallet.

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: lexus114
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Originally Posted By: Miller88
Watch that transmission!


Huh?

It has either the 4R75W or the 4R100, both of which are incredibly robust.



I`d still be concerned about it with that kind of millage. I dont care what trans it has, it`s still an automatic. Think of all those shifts it`s had already. At the very least I would service it.


Agreed on that, I thought Miller was attempting to mention it as a problem point, when it isn't one on these vehicles.

 

[OVERKILL]

OP:

We run 0w30 in both of our Expeditions, an '00 and an '02. I'm currently using an AMSOIL EaO filter, but they are a tad expensive.

A good combination would be M1 AFE 0w30 and a Motorcraft FL-820S, both of which you can find at Walmart.

 

[skyship]

Good idea to use an 0/30 and quality filter, but the USA is a special offers haven, so look out for the other 0/30's like Castrol, LM, Shell, BP or Valvoline if you want to use a more expensive oil. Perhaps Amsoil might do a Christmas special two for one on filters.
I forgot to mention in my last post that the 6 month part of some suggested OCI is a waste of money away from the North Pole or Congo jungle highway (The dirt road to [censored]). One year is good for used oil and ask Santa for a transmission and coolant flush out from a good garage.

 

[Maxima97]

maxlife blend 5W30

 

[andersd]

I have a 99 250SD with the same motor and 222k. It runs better and gets better mileage up to 14mpg with the wind blowing in your favor with a 5w20. Butt dyno says it has less power and no question mileage is down with a 5w30 or higher.

 

[skyship]

It will have a slightly increased fuel consumption on 5 or 0/30, but the reduced oil consumption could pay for the difference.
The book says 5/30 or 5/40, but 0/30 and 0/40 are all OK, as far as I can tell from the oil finder guides.

 

[Clevy]

That engine is spec'd for a 5w-30 but was back spec'd for a 5w-20. Personally I'd stick with the phm in either flavour and just pay attention to the level.

 

[sewagerat]

Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Originally Posted By: lexus114
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Originally Posted By: Miller88
Watch that transmission!


Huh?

It has either the 4R75W or the 4R100, both of which are incredibly robust.



I`d still be concerned about it with that kind of millage. I dont care what trans it has, it`s still an automatic. Think of all those shifts it`s had already. At the very least I would service it.


Agreed on that, I thought Miller was attempting to mention it as a problem point, when it isn't one on these vehicles.


Thanks for all the replies. I appreciate it. Would a transmission flush be a good idea at this point? I have been told by some people that a transmission that hasn't been regularly serviced ( I don't know if it has or not. No service records ) can run into problems if you flush it once it's gone a long time and alot of miles. Something about the transmission parts be coated in the old oil and the high detergent new oil disolves that causing problems?

 

[KD0AXS]

Originally Posted By: sewagerat
Thanks for all the replies. I appreciate it. Would a transmission flush be a good idea at this point? I have been told by some people that a transmission that hasn't been regularly serviced ( I don't know if it has or not. No service records ) can run into problems if you flush it once it's gone a long time and alot of miles. Something about the transmission parts be coated in the old oil and the high detergent new oil disolves that causing problems?


I've heard the same thing, but I take it along the same lines as the thinking that switching to synthetic oil causes oil leaks.

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: sewagerat

Thanks for all the replies. I appreciate it. Would a transmission flush be a good idea at this point? I have been told by some people that a transmission that hasn't been regularly serviced ( I don't know if it has or not. No service records ) can run into problems if you flush it once it's gone a long time and alot of miles. Something about the transmission parts be coated in the old oil and the high detergent new oil disolves that causing problems?


If it is the 4R100, it'll have a drain bolt that drops 6L of fluid out of the pan. You could do a few drain/fills over a number of miles, this would be an effective way to change out the old fluid without "shocking" the transmission, which is what many fear is the issue with flushing a transmission with this kind of mileage on it.

 

[MarkStock]

For transmission, drop the pan and see what you find. You may need to change the filter as part of introducing new fluid that could loosen up crud. Also check the color of the fluid before changing. If it is really dirty, then you know you need to do multiple drain and fills with pan drops to check the filter.

One of the reasons old transmissions used to fail after flushing is that back flushes actually failed to clean the filter. Then, 100% new fluid would loosen crud and clog the already loaded filter.

So it's similar to cleaning up a sludged engine. Slowly, with more frequent oil changes and with frequent filter checks / changes. So the drain and fill and frequent pan drops is the way forward.