Battery terminal grease yah or nay?

[mechtech2]

Clean the terminal and cable end shiny cl.ean [don't remove excess metal!].

Put grease in AFTER assembly. Repeat - after.
I use Rustoleum spray paint - works fantastic.

 

[Tegger]

Originally Posted By: Carnoobie
Im gonna try to clean my posts tommorow, do I put vaseline around the battery terminals before i reconnect the cables?

That's OK. You can put the grease on either way, before or after. I prefer to do it before so as to exclude oxygen from the entire surface. The terminal has little ribs that dig into the post. These cut through the grease, so no worries about accidentally insulating the post.

Originally Posted By: Carnoobie
Also, which should i use? I have sandpaper, baking soda, and toothbrush on me. Dont have wire brush.

Sandpaper is fine. I prefer emery cloth, since it doesn't rip the way sandpaper does. Don't forget to do the inside of the terminal loop.

If you have corrosion, make a really thick paste of water and baking soda. The consistency of the mix will be like toothpaste. Remove the terminal from the post, smear the paste all over the post, terminal, and wiring, and wait for it to bubble and turn green, maybe 15 minutes. Wipe off and repeat until the terminal, post, and wiring are all squeaky clean.

However, if you have corrosion, you need to replace your battery, otherwise the corrosion will come right back.

 

[Carnoobie]

Just cleaned it Tegger, got them really clean. What a paint in the [censored] job, took me over an hour.

After i finished and reconnected everything, I fired the car up and it cranked for 3secs before starting but did start. Is that normal after cleaning it? It wasnt a slow crank, normal crank.

 

[AITG]

I use the felt washers and Permatex High Tack gasket adhesive - I suspect it's the same stuff as their battery terminal product.

AFA long crank after disconnecting the battery: I use a Ford CVPI that has a battery disconnect. After each disconnect it cranks longer than if it's not disconnected. Our shop mechanic tells me it needs to re-learn something.

 

[Carnoobie]

Originally Posted By: AITG
I use the felt washers and Permatex High Tack gasket adhesive - I suspect it's the same stuff as their battery terminal product.

AFA long crank after disconnecting the battery: I use a Ford CVPI that has a battery disconnect. After each disconnect it cranks longer than if it's not disconnected. Our shop mechanic tells me it needs to re-learn something.


So the long crank after cleaning the batter is normal?

 

[mechtech2]

Yes, of course you CAN put grease on before assembly. But why in the world introduce an insulator where electrical contact should be made??
Because it still can work? With reduced efficiency?
Put grease or paint on afterwards.

 

[TFB1]

Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Yes, of course you CAN put grease on before assembly. But why in the world introduce an insulator where electrical contact should be made??
Because it still can work? With reduced efficiency?
Put grease or paint on afterwards.


Absolutly NO paint!!!

Grease will improve contact whether it's used before or after assembly...

Back when TV had mechanical tuners with rotating contacts we'd grease them after cleaning, if perfect contact wasn't achieved they didn't work... Every time the channel was changed, a different set of contacts moved into place on the greasy contacts... The grease used had to be electrically neutral or the tuner would be thrown off frequency...

 

[Carnoobie]

Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Yes, of course you CAN put grease on before assembly. But why in the world introduce an insulator where electrical contact should be made??
Because it still can work? With reduced efficiency?
Put grease or paint on afterwards.


Whats better vaseline or motor oil for greasing it? If you grease it, wont dirt just stick to it?

 

[Carnoobie]

Originally Posted By: Tegger
Anything oily will do, even Crisco or lard.

But nothing will stop corrosion from the terminals except a new battery, one that has NOT had its terminal connectors overtightened! It is astounding how many people damage their batteries that way.



How tight should the cables be to the posts? I just had mine til it was snug but firm but easy to take loose again wit hthe socket.

On one of my cable terminal ends i noticed a tiny bit of rust and couldnt get it off.

 

[Tegger]

Originally Posted By: Carnoobie
How tight should the cables be to the posts? I just had mine til it was snug but firm but easy to take loose again wit hthe socket.

Use ONE thumb on a SHORT wrench. Push about as hard as you would when pushing a doorbell, or maybe a bit harder. You want it JUST tight enough that you can't rotate the terminal using about as much force as you'd use when turning a click-type knob on a home appliance. It takes SO LITTLE force to tighten the battery terminal.

Originally Posted By: Carnoobie
On one of my cable terminal ends i noticed a tiny bit of rust and couldnt get it off.

Brown rust like on steel is OK as long as it's just a little spot.

 

[Tegger]

Originally Posted By: Carnoobie
Whats better vaseline or motor oil for greasing it?

Either. Last time I used Krown/Carwell T40, handy because it's a spray. Got any clarified butter? That works too. Or maybe Country Crock margarine. Polar bear fat is good. So is the grease off someone's nose, if you could obtain it in sufficient quantity (see your nearest teenage boy).

The point is, you want to coat the terminal with something that will exclude OXYGEN. In an automotive environment, that oxygen comes in the form of water. Therefore, to exclude oxygen from the metal, you need something that does NOT mix with water. Science question: What, famously, does NOT mix with water?

Originally Posted By: Carnoobie
If you grease it, wont dirt just stick to it?

Yep. But that's meaningless. You can wipe dirt off.

 

[Tegger]

Originally Posted By: mechtech2
why in the world introduce an insulator where electrical contact should be made??

Theoretically what you say makes sense, and I suppose it might be true for the old-style lead-block terminals, but the sort of aluminized sheet-copper terminals commonly used by Honda aren't like the lead-block connectors of yore.

 

[cathy]

any antiseize (nickel) or dielectric is better than regular grease / Vaseline, which is insulating?

 

[Tegger]

Originally Posted By: cathy
any antiseize (nickel) or dielectric is better than regular grease / Vaseline, which is insulating?

Dielectric grease IS insulating grease. But it takes very little pressure to penetrate the film, which is why no harm is done when automakers stuff their electrical connectors with it.

 

[cutter]

Used white lithium from a squeeze tube. After a day, the white paste covering the both terminals turned a little pink. It's the same color since and no corrosion in a month. Seems good.

 

[JHZR2]

Originally Posted By: Tegger
Originally Posted By: cathy
any antiseize (nickel) or dielectric is better than regular grease / Vaseline, which is insulating?

Dielectric grease IS insulating grease. But it takes very little pressure to penetrate the film, which is why no harm is done when automakers stuff their electrical connectors with it.



The metallic content in antisieze should allow conductivity, which is why it can be used on O2 sensors, spark plugs, glow plugs, etc., even if it starts wars over whether to use it or not

Dielectric is a different animal from Antisieze.

 

[Carnoobie]

Originally Posted By: Tegger
Originally Posted By: Carnoobie
Whats better vaseline or motor oil for greasing it?

Either. Last time I used Krown/Carwell T40, handy because it's a spray. Got any clarified butter? That works too. Or maybe Country Crock margarine. Polar bear fat is good. So is the grease off someone's nose, if you could obtain it in sufficient quantity (see your nearest teenage boy).

The point is, you want to coat the terminal with something that will exclude OXYGEN. In an automotive environment, that oxygen comes in the form of water. Therefore, to exclude oxygen from the metal, you need something that does NOT mix with water. Science question: What, famously, does NOT mix with water?

Originally Posted By: Carnoobie
If you grease it, wont dirt just stick to it?

Yep. But that's meaningless. You can wipe dirt off.



UNfortunately I dont have any of that special grease so I just put bit of vaseline on for time being. Doubt it does anything. Would like to find something around the house to use and not have to go buy something.

Originally Posted By: cutter
Used white lithium from a squeeze tube. After a day, the white paste covering the both terminals turned a little pink. It's the same color since and no corrosion in a month. Seems good.


You sure thats safe to use? Cause I have some on me and also some brake anti seize lube if thats ok.

 

[mechtech2]

Originally Posted By: TFB1
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Yes, of course you CAN put grease on before assembly. But why in the world introduce an insulator where electrical contact should be made??
Because it still can work? With reduced efficiency?
Put grease or paint on afterwards.


Absolutly NO paint!!!

Grease will improve contact whether it's used before or after assembly...


Back when TV had mechanical tuners with rotating contacts we'd grease them after cleaning, if perfect contact wasn't achieved they didn't work... Every time the channel was changed, a different set of contacts moved into place on the greasy contacts... The grease used had to be electrically neutral or the tuner would be thrown off frequency...


Wrong, wrong, and wrong!!
Absolutely no paint?:
It is the best way that I have found in 50+ years.
Grease improves contact?:
No. Just plain no.
TV tuners of old used grease?:
They had moving parts, Einstein. Battery terminals do not.

 

[TFB1]

Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Originally Posted By: TFB1
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Yes, of course you CAN put grease on before assembly. But why in the world introduce an insulator where electrical contact should be made??
Because it still can work? With reduced efficiency?
Put grease or paint on afterwards.


Absolutly NO paint!!!

Grease will improve contact whether it's used before or after assembly...


Back when TV had mechanical tuners with rotating contacts we'd grease them after cleaning, if perfect contact wasn't achieved they didn't work... Every time the channel was changed, a different set of contacts moved into place on the greasy contacts... The grease used had to be electrically neutral or the tuner would be thrown off frequency...


Wrong, wrong, and wrong!!
Absolutely no paint?:
It is the best way that I have found in 50+ years.
Grease improves contact?:
No. Just plain no.
TV tuners of old used grease?:
They had moving parts, Einstein. Battery terminals do not.


OK Sherlock, tell me a battery terminal doesn't move when it's tightened down...

I've greased terminals or used the spray corrosion preventive(my preferred these days) for well over 40 years, never had a issue...

 

[AVB]

I have used a battery protector product that was basically just yellow spray paint. I do not remember the name, it wasn't a regular consumer brand it was more of a industrial grade brand it had a white label with blue print. It may have been Zep battery coat. I have also used the sticky red stuff that looks like disk brake quiet. I had a car come in that was a no start, some one had coated the post and terminals with the red stuff before making the connection.

I personally would not apply any thing to the post before making the connection. It may scrape off enough to work, but I would be concerned that the connection would not be as good as it could be. I would think it may reduce the contact surface. What is the point of cleaning the terminals if you aren't going to get the best connection you can? It would be like cutting half the strands of the battery cable in my opinion.