Is this a bad u-joint? Pics included in post

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This is about the 2001 Dodge Dakota Extended Cab Pickup Truck in my signature. It is a basic two wheel drive truck, it has a 3.9 V6, and a manual 5-speed transmission, with 152,200 miles on it.

I have another thread here about a vibration that started recently. I feel it in the steering wheel and seat, it starts at about 65 and persists through 70 mph. If I go any faster than 70 I do not feel the vibration. I thought maybe the vibration was because the rotors were warped or had rust build-up. I checked it today and the rotors look OK but I will likely replace them anyway to eliminate a slight shimmy my truck has when I am slowing down to a stop. I had the tires balanced and rotated at a good local independent garage yesterday but the vibration persists.

I believe I have found the source of the vibration. I have 3 u-joints on my drive shaft. I believe the front one at the tail piece of the transmission is bad. Here are some pics:

This one shows grease leaking out one of the caps. There is also a line of grease that slung up on to the bottom of the truck bed above the u-joint:

P1010092.jpg


Another pic of the grease line on the bottom of the bed:

P1010090.jpg


Another pic of the cap leaking grease:

P1010091.jpg


In this pic you can see a crack in the plastic seal around the cap. I guess that is reason enough to replace the u-joint too. All 3 u-joints have these cracks in their seals:

P1010094.jpg


Another pic of leaking grease:

P1010095.jpg


The truck does have just a very slight click type noise when I put it in gear, usually heard when I put it in reverse. Every now and then I can hear a similar noise as I shift gears while driving, usually at slow speeds as in from second to third. I always thought the noise was normal, it has done it for a long time. Now that I think about it the noise when shifting to reverse has become more pronounced here lately. I bet the leaky u-joint at the tail piece is exactly the reason why.

Do you guys here agree or think I may be right? If so, what brand of u-joints is best? I have never replaced one before but I am confident I can get it done with the help of BITOG, You Tube, the internet forums and my service manuals. The other two u-joints are not leaking any grease but I will replace all 3 u-joints because it makes more sense to be proactive and I sure don't want any u-joint failures on the road. I will also replace the transmission tail piece seal while I am at it.

Thanks for your help on this.
 
Well looks like it is slinging the grease. I would change it out. Is it clunking when you put it in gear? Are they original?
 
Thanks. Yes they are original with 152K miles. I had been hearing a clunk noise when I put the truck in reverse and back out of a parking space or my garage. Every now and again I would hear a similar noise when shifting gears in forward motion at slower speeds. The noise has been there for a long time and I just thought it was a normal manual tranny noise. There were no other odd noises, vibrations or problems. But here lately in the last month or so the noise has become louder, especially when in reverse. I believe the one leaky u-joint is definitely shot.
 
I think I told you in an earlier post that it might have been a drive shaft weight. Looks like you did indeed narrow it to the driveshaft. This is so often overlooked in vibrations in RWD vbehicles. Glad that it looks like you found it!!
 
Thanks. I have never had to replace a u-joint before. Do you guys have any suggestions on manufacturers? AZ has a Duralast Gold with life time warranty for $15.00. AAP has a brand I never heard of called Brute Force, same price as AZ. The AAP part is made in the USA. I don't know for sure about Duralast. I tried looking at Moog on the Rock Auto site, but it says "Federated/Moog". I don't know if that is a real Moog part or not and recently I also have heard there have been quality issues with Moog and some Moog parts are now made in China.
 
You can usually feel a bad universal by twisting/shaking it... The grease leak isn't good but most bad ones are trailing rust, which is what comes after the grease leaks out...
 
Originally Posted By: 229
I would replace all of them and prefer the USA made models including Neapco.


While this may be true of all of all American U-joint manufacturers, most NEAPCO u-joints crosses are cast in China and the final assembly or machining is done in the U.S.
(There is a NEAPCO factory a couple of miles down the road from me and I've talked to some employees)
 
Neapco seems to be fine for drive shafts, but I won't use them for axle shafts. I blew one out (and killed an axle shaft) idling across grass in 4hi.
 
Thanks again for the info. I am lucky that I work from home, so I can take my time about replacing the u-joints. I expect it will be a very good learning experience. I can drive my wife's car if I need to go anywhere. My truck can stay in the garage until I get it fixed, because I will not drive it again until I get the u-joints done. I am researching manufacturers and quality reviews before I make my decision on which parts to buy. I would appreciate the info if anyone here has any experience with the u-joints from Advance, Napa or Auto Zone. Those are the only choices I have unless I buy online from Rock or some other online parts retailer.
 
Get the heavy duty u joints with zerk fittings. I get em at Napa and I think they are made by Spicer. The rest of the truck will wear out before you will need to replace them again.
 
I have had spicer u-joints in my 11 second car for years. They hold up well to 1.8-2.0 60 foot times. I am sure they will be fine in your Dakota.
 
Originally Posted By: Jimmy9190
I would appreciate the info if anyone here has any experience with the u-joints


If you've never done any before, my advice is to have a buddy near by looking over your shoulder as you assemble them. Plus, sometimes it helps to have an extra set of hands.
 
Spicer is good but there is nothing wrong with Brute Force either. They are tough and will last as long as OEM. We use them all the time with no problems whatsoever.
Dont bother with zerk fittings, its a waste of time for the most part on non off road vehicles.

The OEM on my 99 Expedition went 11 yrs on them with no zerk.

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Thanks for the info Trav. I was having a tough time deciding and even locating parts online. I can get the Brute Force with a good online discount at the AAP just up the street. Looks like they are made by Neapco too, which should do just fine. I would rather use a sealed u-joint. I understand they are said to be stronger, and I don't want to worry with indexing the zerk in the right spot. The OE u-joints on my truck have lasted over 152K with no zerks. Thanks for helping me decide.
 
You welcome. I had a vibration in the Expedition that i finally traced down to the rear drive shaft, it was badly rusted. The front was better but not by much.

I shot blasted them then primed and epoxy painted, installed new u-Joints and had them balanced.
I was always of the opinion zerks were better but on the front shaft i couldn't use them as there is a shroud covering the joint where it goes into the transfer case.

I went with the Brute Force no zerks. The seals are much better than on the zerk models and they use a synthetic grease.
The guys at the drive shaft service company that did the balancing only told me they are very good and they use them on all the shafts they make or rebuild unless the customer specifies otherwise.
They ended up welding 2oz on the rear and 1.5oz on the front, the shafts ran smooth as silk after.

I have since changed my thinking. Seal and grease technology has become so good that lubed for life joints and front end parts can go for 10-20 yrs without any service.
I have a 96 Subaru and a 95 Toyota here that still have all their OEM parts with no zerks. MB and BMW have been using them for decades.
 
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