Best oil for 2003 V-Rod?

[GT Mike]

Originally Posted By: salesrep
After all you have said with regards to your success with Schaeffers, why in the world would you even entertain switching?
I was looking for more durability, and thought I might find it in a full-synthetic. The #705 was very good, but I only got a little over 4000 miles out of it before I could tell it was starting to get tired. When I first changed from whatever it had in it to Schaeffer's, the difference was amazing. Easier to find neutral, much smoother shifting, etc.
I was simply experimenting by trying M1. I'm not overly impressed so far.
My initial suspicions have pretty much been confirmed that these engines do really shear up their oil, and it was a thought that perhaps a full synthetic would help alleviate this so I could get a decent 5000 mile OCI.

That and I'm a little miffed at my local Schaeffer's distributor for personal reasons unrelated to oil whatsoever.

 

[Doog]

Try some Castrol 4T 20w50 or 10w50 or 10w40. OR Mobil1 4T 10w40. These oils are JasoMA rated for wet clutch engines and you can get them at Autozone or AAP. Some guys are using Rotella 15w40 or 5w40 Synthetic as well.

 

[GT Mike]

I can't see how going to a 40wt. would be beneficial.

 

[Sonic]

Originally Posted By: kmrcstintn


I plan on using the 10w-40 variant in my V Star


I know the manual says you can use a 10w-40 for your 650 but it's best to start with a 50 grade oil. Those bikes shear oil so starting with a 40 grade you'll be in the 30 range in no time. The 650 runs hard for a v-twin, make sure it's protected. If you absolutely want a 40, use a HDEO in 15w40. My '09 650 gets nothing but 15w50 or 20w50.

 

[Sonic]

Originally Posted By: kmrcstintn
unfortunately the NAPA brand 15w-50 synthetic at my local store has an energy conserving stamp, so no good for wet clutches...ggrrr!!!


I have a few qts of the Napa 15w50 (to mix with Valvoline 20w50 full synthetic m/c oil) and there is no 'energy conserving' stamp on it. They must have changed it. I do the same with the M1 15w50 and 20w50 m/c oil.

 

[BigCahuna]

You'll notice there's no API donut/symbol on any "motorcycle" oil bottle. That's because there's no standard that HAS to be met. You have to believe that the MFGR is telling the truth as far as what rating it meets. I find it funny people will pay over $10 a qt for oil with no API verification, but look for certified oil on sale for less then $3 a qt. People use Redline oil in their primary's and that's been tested to have some of the highest moly in any oil commonly used, without issues. The only time it may become an issue, is in real "race bike" applications.,,

 

[GT Mike]

Ok, so this is weird... After putting a few miles (roughly 1000) on my change to Mobil 1, it's starting to get better than when I first changed it. Is this even possible??? Shifting feels great, clutch is nice and smooth, and it just seems really nice. I can't fathom how oil could get better with use, but that's certainly what it feels like. Bizarre.