I've been lurking here for a bit and finally have a question to post. I just ordered a John Deere D130 because I'm sick of cutting the hill in my yard with a push mower. I was looking at the price of JD branded filters and oil and I'm amazed at how expensive they are. I've looked around at filter websites and I can't find anything that is listed as going with this model. Does anybody know what filters will work with it and meet the appropriate specs? Also, it takes two quarts of 10w30, and I noticed the JD 10w30 is SM GF-4, is this a heavy duty oil? Or can I use a PCMO in it? I have a stash of 10w30 Nextgen, 5w30 Nextgen, and 5w30 G-oil, so I would prefer to use these if appropriate. If not, then I will probably go with Rotella T5, since it is a pretty good price. What do you guys think?
John Deere D130 Oil & Filter questions
- Thread starter BerlinettaBoxer
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AM125424 is the deere part number for the oil filter. most filter manufacturer websites will have a competitor cross reference. i personally use a Purolator L10241 on my LT 166 which calls for the same filter.
As far as oil goes, my current fill in the deere is Mobil Super 5000 that gets changed once a season with weekly cuttings. As far as i know any decent PCMO will work, i just have a large stash from the Oreillys rebate a while back so that's what i put in everthing currently.
As far as oil goes, my current fill in the deere is Mobil Super 5000 that gets changed once a season with weekly cuttings. As far as i know any decent PCMO will work, i just have a large stash from the Oreillys rebate a while back so that's what i put in everthing currently.
That part number is more helpful than the other part number for the filter. Still, why isn't the D100 series listed as an application for the cross references? And I guess when I get it, I will check the manual for anything that might indicate if theres anything special required for the oil. Probably will just use the 10w30 Nextgen.
Link to filters
I use the Motorcraft FL910 on most Kohler and B&S engines. Most Walmarts have them for cheap in the US
I use the Motorcraft FL910 on most Kohler and B&S engines. Most Walmarts have them for cheap in the US
How serious of an incline are you mowing? I'd be concerned more about the trans-axle than the engine oil filter.
The JD D-series machines use the equivalent of the Tufftorq K46. JD calls them a T40 trans. Not a bad little hydrostatic trans, but not intended for a ton of hill climbing.
Joel
The JD D-series machines use the equivalent of the Tufftorq K46. JD calls them a T40 trans. Not a bad little hydrostatic trans, but not intended for a ton of hill climbing.
Joel
Thanks for the filter link... very helpful! As for the incline... I'll give you an overview of the whole yard. 100x150 lot (yeah I know its not a lot for a rider), 100 is the width. I currently have a Tecumseh powered Craftsman self propelled mower. The front is sloped enough where its a good workout walking with the mower, but the mower can make it up the incline just fine under its own power. The side and about 25-30 feet behind the house is flat. Then the real hill. It is steep enough where the mower can't make it up it at an angle, and it slides down the hill when going horizontally. And then after the slope is another flat spot. Fortunately, I only have to mow at most 50 feet width of the slope. Some rough estimates on the size of the slope, it is 5 to 6 feet high, and a hypotenuse of 20 to 25 feet, so with trig its probably 12 to 18 degrees, which doesn't sound like a lot, but its a pain to mow with a push mower. And I went for a hydrostatic because of obsticles in the front yard. Is this hill bad enough to be concerned about the hydrostatic trans?
Sounds like it should be OK given just a portion of the property is somewhat heavily inclined. Just use caution and make sure to keep your deck height and gauge wheels set so they don't bounce around on the ground when mowing. Lots of ground contact will beat up these decks and all their associated hardware. The 42" does offer a real nice cut.
Joel
Joel
Thanks for the tip on the deck... this will be my first rider so I'm not used to keeping something like that in mind. Good to hear its a nice cut, I didn't see a point to going any bigger with my yard size. And I will also be working on reducing the amount of that slope that needs to be mowed, so I will be less hard on the trans. The sucky part of that is the shed it will reside in is on the top flat part.
You'd be surprised at the amount of people that think because a cutting deck has wheels, that means it's intended to continuously roll along on the ground. Not the case at all. Nearly all your residential stuff is intended to 'hang' from the machine, with the gauge wheels only designed to ride over high/uneven spots. You'll greatly increase the lifespan of the deck having it set properly.
In regards to the trans, get yourself a good leaf-blower, reach under and blow off the whole transaxle after each use. This will keep the cooling fins clear, which is essential.
The leaf blower is ideal for cleaning off the top of the deck, and whole machine in general. Try not to use water to clean it.
Joel
In regards to the trans, get yourself a good leaf-blower, reach under and blow off the whole transaxle after each use. This will keep the cooling fins clear, which is essential.
The leaf blower is ideal for cleaning off the top of the deck, and whole machine in general. Try not to use water to clean it.
Joel
Using the leaf blower should be pretty easy to remember, I already am using one to clear the sidewalk/driveway of grass clippings. And is using the washout port on the deck ok or should I be cleaning that out with a method other than water?
And does anybody know if I should be using an HDEO like Rotella T5 or will a PCMO be fine?
And does anybody know if I should be using an HDEO like Rotella T5 or will a PCMO be fine?
type of oil probably won't matter in the long run---the trans will go before the engine.
JTK hit it square on the head-the trans is a light duty unit with no ability to change the hydro fluid unless you remove it from the mower = no drain plug.
Don't start pulling a cart full of stuff up the hill and it'll probably last 10 years without an issue-Enjoy!
JTK hit it square on the head-the trans is a light duty unit with no ability to change the hydro fluid unless you remove it from the mower = no drain plug.
Don't start pulling a cart full of stuff up the hill and it'll probably last 10 years without an issue-Enjoy!
Rotella 10W30 worked great in my last Deere... I use it in all my current Kawasaki engines.
Originally Posted By: BerlinettaBoxer
And does anybody know if I should be using an HDEO like Rotella T5 or will a PCMO be fine?
I personally like running HDEOs in my small air cooled engines and would not use a 5w or 10w30 PCMO in them. Like we always say though, any oil in there, maintained and changed at a reasonable interval will allow the engine to last a long time.
FWIW, I've substituted 15w40 for SAE30 for about the last 6yrs.
And does anybody know if I should be using an HDEO like Rotella T5 or will a PCMO be fine?
I personally like running HDEOs in my small air cooled engines and would not use a 5w or 10w30 PCMO in them. Like we always say though, any oil in there, maintained and changed at a reasonable interval will allow the engine to last a long time.
FWIW, I've substituted 15w40 for SAE30 for about the last 6yrs.
So the tractor finally came in and I picked it up. Did a little mowing to test it out, and attached the mulching cover. I ended up deciding to pick up three John Deere oil filters just to be on the safe side during warranty period. Will try out other options later on. Checked out the manual, and it says it has a Tuff Torq T40 rather than T46. Is this much different or is it just a special designation for John Deere? Also, oil recommendations are pretty primitive. SJ or better, anywhere from 5w30 to 15w40. Probably will just go with the Rotella T5 for now and use the stash for cars. The tractor doesn't seem to have any problems on the hill but I'm definitely going to be careful. Thanks for all the info!
I have an LA115 that calls for the AM125434 filter. I use the NAPA Gold 1516 filter which is longer than The JD filter.
Three years and so far so good.
Three years and so far so good.
Originally Posted By: BerlinettaBoxer
..Checked out the manual, and it says it has a Tuff Torq T40 rather than T46. Is this much different or is it just a special designation for John Deere?
Like talked about earlier in the thread, the T40 is a John Deere only version of a T46. Best I can tell, they're the same trans. John Deere likes to muddy the waters to make it harder to look up parts/service through the Tufftorq website that way.
Joel
..Checked out the manual, and it says it has a Tuff Torq T40 rather than T46. Is this much different or is it just a special designation for John Deere?
Like talked about earlier in the thread, the T40 is a John Deere only version of a T46. Best I can tell, they're the same trans. John Deere likes to muddy the waters to make it harder to look up parts/service through the Tufftorq website that way.
Joel
Originally Posted By: Charlie1935
I have an LA115 that calls for the AM125434 filter. I use the NAPA Gold 1516 filter which is longer than The JD filter.
Three years and so far so good.
Finger hit wrong button, JD # 125424.
I have an LA115 that calls for the AM125434 filter. I use the NAPA Gold 1516 filter which is longer than The JD filter.
Three years and so far so good.
Finger hit wrong button, JD # 125424.
The T40 is a John Deere spec'd very light duty transmission. It is K46 "light" if you will.
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