Mobil 1 0W20 VS Amsoil 0W-20 Signature Series

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Originally Posted By: Falken

Amsoil is in the oil business, it's all they do. If a car failed on Amsoil it would have failed on any oil, only much faster and much worse. Check out their UOAs and VOAs, they are everywhere on BITOG, and all impressive.


Not bashing Amsoil, but to say that all Amsoil UOA's are impressive is a bit of an overstatement. Would be an overstatement for any oil.
 
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Originally Posted By: tsduke
Originally Posted By: Falken

Amsoil is in the oil business, it's all they do. If a car failed on Amsoil it would have failed on any oil, only much faster and much worse. Check out their UOAs and VOAs, they are everywhere on BITOG, and all impressive.


Not bashing Amsoil, but to say that all Amsoil UOA's are impressive is a bit of an overstatement. Would be an overstatement for any oil.


Since UOAs don't really tell as much about the oil as it does about the condition of the engine(coolant leaks, fuel problems, dirt intering the engine)the purpose for doing them on a regular basis remains a mystery. Of course M1,PP,PU,QS and other quality synthetics will lube an engine for as many miles as Amsoil, and keep it just as cleanfor 10K OCIs.
 
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Originally Posted By: Pablo
Originally Posted By: Danh
Originally Posted By: addyguy
You want to use the M1 0W-20, as it is API-certified, and that will most likely be required for your warranty.

Amsoil has 2 0W-20's that are API-certified, the 'XL' and 'OE' 0W-20. IF you want to go with Amsoil, maybe choose one of those.


I'm not an Amsoil user, but Amsoil fans seem to react pretty violently when the possible warranty implications of using Signature Series are brought up. Is this a theoretical complication or have warranty claims actually been denied because it isn't API-certified?




It's been brought up constantly here. It really comes down to exactly what the WRITTEN warranty says. SS meets the requirements of API, so it's not automatically a warranty violation to use it. No one here or anyone I have ever known or seen has a warranty issue with Amsoil SS.

Now back to the original question. I say use Amsoil XL, pocket the savings and enjoy the better UOA than M1.


The AMSOIL warranty problem has been reported previously on forum by several people, myself included.

I installed Amzoil differential lubricant in a nearly new VW 412 in the middle 70's. In about 5,000 miles, the teeth wore completely off the ring and pinion..... gone, just plain worn out like maybe a 400,000 mile differential might look. VW dutifully replaced it, and it was refilled with Amsoil. I had also installed Mobil 1 in the engine (5W20, it was one size fits all)

5,000 miles more and the teeth wore completely off. By now the local Sports car club had members working as mechanics at VW and new about the Amsoil.

It soon became a war of accusations: VW pointing out that it was a non certified lubricant. The local (also SCCA affiliated) Amsoil sales people decided the car was being severely abused and not maintained at all. In any case the differential was rebuilt at my expense and ran forever on regular lubricant.

Severely abused: The original tires lasted way past 50 k miles. 76 HP would not squeal them.... and this vehicle was mostly used at a commuter car by my wife, a university professor.
Never did wear out the original brakes.

Under Maintained: 2 differential changes, 3 complete differential fluid changes in 25,000 miles is not enough??

The next summer at Elhart Lake - Road America... I was crewing on a formula car..... Amsoil reps had literature claiming the Differential Lube now had a 4x higher ep number with their new additive pack. Quizzing those there indicated that they were now adding the EP agents that other oils used to get "even better" results.

My take: It was massively undertested, they were hoping the superiority of "synthetic oil" would not need the EP agents. And the lengthy SAE tests for certification tests were skipped

Mistake number two: Buying from Multi-Level_Marketing sales people. This system develops "true believers" who will grasp at every straw and accept every good claim and poo-pah every failure of their product. When a customer had a failure they went into all out assault mode on the customer, even taking the abuse claim to the dealer, leading them to believe that the car was being abused. IF it is the customers fault then nobody (Amsoil?) has to pay!!

All my cars have had long, reliable lives and my driving would be described as sedate, not aggressive. Perhaps the abuse was putting Amsoil in it!!

Not meaning to beat up on Pablo, but I and others have reported Amsoil problems on this forum that seem forgotten.

And, maybe someday someone will fess up what the factory knew about this. Why the sudden upgrade to the 4X better product, with large amounts of literature laying around proclaiming it.
 
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There are some members who object in every thread where any oil is said to be as good as or better than M1.
Compare the PDSs, and they'll tell you that M1 has secret ingredients not shown on the PDS, and that the NOACK and low temp numbers have no meaning.
Anyway, M1 has better basestocks, as though the Koreans are setting aside the really good Grp III for the blending of M1.
Compare VOAs, and they'll tell you that the VOAs don't detect M1's hush-hush additives.
Compare UOAs, and they'll tell you that they don't believe in UOAs and that they aren't really indicators of an oil's performance anyway.
There are better oils than M1, and SSO is one of them.
As a PC, you would pay very little more for SSO than you would for M1, and you'll get a much stouter oil.
Peace of mind for the OP when he runs his car a bit past his planned OCI, because life does happen.
 
Originally Posted By: fsskier


Not meaning to beat up on Pablo, but I and others have reported Amsoil problems on this forum that seem forgotten.



I never said Amsoil is perfect. They have made mistakes. They are run by humans last I checked. While I know nothing of your example, I actually had never seen it brought up before (maybe I did forget!), but it's got zero to do with API listing.
 
Originally Posted By: fsskier
Severely abused: The original tires lasted way past 50 k miles. 76 HP would not squeal them.... and this vehicle was mostly used at a commuter car by my wife, a university professor.


It is hard to "abuse" a rear end out in such an application, for sure.
wink.gif
Reminds me of my old mid-size LTD with a whopping 110 hp four cylinder, with something that looked suspiciously like a Ford 9" for a differential, along with a Ford C5.
 
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Pablo - is it true Amsoil was one of the first synthetic oils?


Synthetic motor oil or synthetic oil?

Chemists were synthesizing oil before WWII.

Amsoil was one of the first readily marketed synthetic motor oils and they were the first synthetic oil to meet API requirements.
 
One of my questions with the

"Higher Fe when using M1... " How good of a filter were you using? We all know the Amsoil filter is pretty epic. I'd expect if you were running M1 with a lesser filter, you'd see higher Fe just because of the lack of filtration.
 
First of all M1 oils do not cause high iron. High iron is from 100-200PPM. Also myself and many others I know put 300-400 K on engines with M1 and any average filter. I have used MC filters now for some time with no problems. I have seen that the oil is far more important than type of filter used.
 
Originally Posted By: tig1
First of all M1 oils do not cause high iron. High iron is from 100-200PPM. Also myself and many others I know put 300-400 K on engines with M1 and any average filter. I have used MC filters now for some time with no problems. I have seen that the oil is far more important than type of filter used.

Asked differently..Why does it seem that M1 UOA's have higher iron than other UOA's?
 
Originally Posted By: Doug Hillary
Hi,
Pablo - You said this "......and enjoy the better UOA than M1."

Care to enlighten a simple soul like me?


Enlighten you as to what?

If I had said "......and enjoy the better UOA with M1." You would not have objected. Enlightened?

Any person can run 5 or 6 5-10K runs with M1 and 5 or 6K 5-10K runs with XL and compare. Statistically speaking M1 will have more Fe in solution. Is this harmful? No probably not. Will your engine be clean? Yes. Nothing wrong with M1, so don't get your nickers in a twist.
 
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Originally Posted By: tig1
First of all M1 oils do not cause high iron. High iron is from 100-200PPM. Also myself and many others I know put 300-400 K on engines with M1 and any average filter. I have used MC filters now for some time with no problems. I have seen that the oil is far more important than type of filter used.

Asked differently..Why does it seem that M1 UOA's have higher iron than other UOA's?


That's not always the case and this has been discussed many times before. In my Fords I have done 2 UOAs. Both had iron in the 10PPM for 10K, but M1 is the only oil I use. Most here switch oil brands and oil wt. often trying to find the perfect lube. To really do UOAs the same oil should be used for several OCIs before a UOA is done.
 
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Hi,
Pablo - Such comments in your reply don't add much to BITOG - you know that, we've been down that path before!

Throw away lines about any product don't help nor do they endorse their verification

For the average user there will be little benefit one product over the other - the subject of this Thread. And UOAs will not be the vehicle that determines which - and you know that too!

See you in Chicago Pablo? - perhaps we can a share drink or two.....
 
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Lots of great info but the one thing that concerns me is the Toyota factory warranty (I have the 7 year 100000 mile one) and oil that is not certified would jeopardize this.

Seems like dealers these days are always looking for ways to weasel out of not honoring the warranty and an oil that is not certified seems like a good out for them. Considering the money it would take to fight them in court I will stick to a certified oil until the warranty expires.

I would really like to run the Amsoil SSO but based on the warranty issue I am now only considering the OEM Toyota oil, M1 and Amsoil XL.

If you had to pick between the OEM Toyota oil, M1 and Amsoil XL which would you guys go with?
 
Originally Posted By: rraiderr

If you had to pick between the OEM Toyota oil, M1 and Amsoil XL which would you guys go with?



If you can get a good deal on the Toyota oil I'd use that, otherwise Mobil 1.
 
Originally Posted By: Doug Hillary
Hi,
Pablo - Such comments in your reply don't add much to BITOG - you know that, we've been down that path before!

Throw away lines about any product don't help nor do they endorse their verification

For the average user there will be little benefit one product over the other - the subject of this Thread. And UOAs will not be the vehicle that determines which - and you know that too!

See you in Chicago Pablo? - perhaps we can a share drink or two.....


Hence for my reasoning for recommending the lower cost XL that shows better, more consistent UOA's. Not a lot of other consumer methods of distinguishing motor oils other than reputation, engine cleanliness and third party testing, which in this case are a tie. Some people count OEM use, I and other astute observers know this really doesn't have a ton to do with actual motor oil performance. Your world leads you to cheerlead for M1, my world Amsoil. I don't have a problem with that, and that's 10 years of BITOG!

I will be unable to make it to ChicagoLand (Naperville) on September 8th.
 
Originally Posted By: fdcg27
There are some members who object in every thread where any oil is said to be as good as or better than M1.
Compare the PDSs, and they'll tell you that M1 has secret ingredients not shown on the PDS, and that the NOACK and low temp numbers have no meaning.
Anyway, M1 has better basestocks, as though the Koreans are setting aside the really good Grp III for the blending of M1.
Compare VOAs, and they'll tell you that the VOAs don't detect M1's hush-hush additives.
Compare UOAs, and they'll tell you that they don't believe in UOAs and that they aren't really indicators of an oil's performance anyway.
There are better oils than M1, and SSO is one of them.
As a PC, you would pay very little more for SSO than you would for M1, and you'll get a much stouter oil.
Peace of mind for the OP when he runs his car a bit past his planned OCI, because life does happen.


How would you ascertain that Mobil 0W-20 contains much, if any, Group III+?
 
Originally Posted By: rraiderr
Lots of great info but the one thing that concerns me is the Toyota factory warranty (I have the 7 year 100000 mile one) and oil that is not certified would jeopardize this.

Seems like dealers these days are always looking for ways to weasel out of not honoring the warranty and an oil that is not certified seems like a good out for them. Considering the money it would take to fight them in court I will stick to a certified oil until the warranty expires.

I would really like to run the Amsoil SSO but based on the warranty issue I am now only considering the OEM Toyota oil, M1 and Amsoil XL.

If you had to pick between the OEM Toyota oil, M1 and Amsoil XL which would you guys go with?


I think you will be ok with any of them. I would pick M1 out of convenience (walmart). M1 and Toyota syn are made by XOM, would assume something in the brew is shared. If you do have a problem, the only thing they will be looking for is neglect (sludge, dirty engine, etc). They can't really prove anything else. They dont go as far as oil chemistry.
 
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