Last yr I did a repair on a shower basin using epoxy and figerglass. After working the expoxy into the fiberglass the epoxy appeared to be thick enough and not run. I came back 5 min later and all was fine and the epoxy was 6 inches from the drain an setting up just fine. Evidently some time after that and the chemical reaction heated up the epoxy thinned some and ran down the drain after I had left. Unfortunately the shower is in the shop and plumbing buried under concrete. Drain runs slow due to the epoxy now in the pipe. Sometimes it will plug requiring plunger or draino. Tried a snake.. no good... anything I can use to get through this epoxy blockage without hurting the PVC pipe??... the blockage is in the turn about 18" down. thanks for any help!!.. Mike
slow drain plumbing help
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I thought about using a long flexible drill bit inside maybe a rubber hose?? and placing it up against the blockage... would the rubber hose keep the bit "centered" within drain pipe and not destroy it?
I know this isnt what you meant, i am only trying to help. If draino helps buy 3 bottles of the works toliet bowl cleaner its 1.00 at the dollar stores, its acid.Spray them all in and make sure you have the exhaust fan on or hold your breath as much as you can while doing so, the vapors are very bad.
Thanks!!... will this combo eat through the epoxy and not hurt the PVC? I did notice some of the epoxy broke loose and floated to the drain opening when I used draino. Its hard to believe the epoxy had acutally stuck to the drain pipe with all the oils and scum etc coating the PVC drain pipe.
I have no idea i think plastic is good with it i have used this on so many things. From time to time our washing machine filters get plugged and slow to fill and i put this on them and its gone in seconds and put them back in.Just be careful cause it will eat chrome and other finishes.And its toxic to breath.
A lot is going to depend on exactly where that epoxy is located.
If it's straight down an 18" drop at the bottom of a P trap I'd get a long drill bit-the type made for going through walls-and gently try to break up the epoxy. Dropping some dry ice into the drain may help make the epoxy brittle and make it break up easier. Fair warning, it may also make the PVC brittle and make it break up easier.
If it's into the trap then the only real option is trying to use a chemical to soften the epoxy and use something to push it out. Again, you run the risk of damaging the PVC along with the epoxy, so be judicious in your approach.
Epoxy can often be softened with heat, but at 18" it's too far to use a heat gun on it, and I doubt you could get water hot enough to soften the epoxy.
If it's straight down an 18" drop at the bottom of a P trap I'd get a long drill bit-the type made for going through walls-and gently try to break up the epoxy. Dropping some dry ice into the drain may help make the epoxy brittle and make it break up easier. Fair warning, it may also make the PVC brittle and make it break up easier.
If it's into the trap then the only real option is trying to use a chemical to soften the epoxy and use something to push it out. Again, you run the risk of damaging the PVC along with the epoxy, so be judicious in your approach.
Epoxy can often be softened with heat, but at 18" it's too far to use a heat gun on it, and I doubt you could get water hot enough to soften the epoxy.
IF YOU ARE LUCKY, THE EPOXY DID NOT BOND TO THE SLIMY AND/OR WATER FILLED TRAP. Otherwise, you are screwed.
Since you still have some drainage, chances are the epoxy is sitting in the bottom of the trap. Unlike the blue area in the picture, the epoxy will be below the "U".
I would look very carefully with a flashlight. Maybe suspend penlight down the hole so you can see better. Poke at the epoxy with a stiff wire (cloths hanger) to see if it moves.
Could you drill a small pilot hole into the epoxy flat area, then insert a very short sheet metal screw. Grab the screw with a fabricated sheet metal tool or wire noose and pull the epoxy out.
Maybe one of these tools to grab it:
If you need help designing/using the tools above, ask. I have some other ideas too. Or, you may have to call a "turd chaser", aka roto rooter guy.
Since you still have some drainage, chances are the epoxy is sitting in the bottom of the trap. Unlike the blue area in the picture, the epoxy will be below the "U".
I would look very carefully with a flashlight. Maybe suspend penlight down the hole so you can see better. Poke at the epoxy with a stiff wire (cloths hanger) to see if it moves.
Could you drill a small pilot hole into the epoxy flat area, then insert a very short sheet metal screw. Grab the screw with a fabricated sheet metal tool or wire noose and pull the epoxy out.
Maybe one of these tools to grab it:
If you need help designing/using the tools above, ask. I have some other ideas too. Or, you may have to call a "turd chaser", aka roto rooter guy.
OK thanks for the replies... I finally got it 100% broke loose. I used the Works Toilet Cleaner as jsnyder replied. Used two large bottles then made a auger with some 1/2" PVC with two sharpe tips cut into the end. I dont think the epoxy ever bonded to the pipe. Lots of small soft chunks floatd to the top at first. I did end of blowing all of it through in to the septic with a high pressure nozzle at the end of a hose.
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