quote:
Originally posted by Chris B.:
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P.S. I now use Fule Power with the 93 gas. The engine sounds the same with the 88 before the Fule power.If I can get away with it to save a little $$ I'll start to use the 88 all the time.
Two types of gasoline you should be concerned with: 1. Ones without the proper(advertised) octane 2. ones that don't have adequate cleaning agents for the FI,Valves, combustion chambers.
Lots of times low octane is outright fraud, not per se from the MFG, but the jobber. You see, most pump stations offer three grades; regular, plus, and super; it wouldn't be the first time that Regular was mixed or added in with the super.
But most (not all but most) Plus grades are a mix of say bout a 50/50 rate of Regular and Super, this is truly the best buy IMHO. These scams are not usually the fault of the Station but the JOBBER. Most autos don't need super, but there is one benefit, is at least in the past ( I donno about now - past year or so) is some grades of super do have the higher levels of additives one needs.
The main issue with Gas is that the supplier may chose to skimp ($$pennies) to stay competitive in gas wars (jobbers getting fuel sold). They do this by using cheaper additives. The best or one of them is polyetheramine (spelling??) but it costs about 2x the others (still less than I think a cent per treated gallon)... the result is something like 80-85% gas sold contains only a small dose and the autos suffer.
When people use gas that is not properly treated their injectors clog up with varnish (only about 8% restriction can cause a misfire), but this takes some time to notice and most people think it's just how it is or that their cars are getting "older" and many times this is not the case... just bad gas.
There may be three schools of thought here:
1. To have the injectors cleaned
2. To dump some injector cleaner once and awhile
3. To always treat the fuel
I subscribe to #3.
IMO, to do #1 most people don't put it on a scheduled maintenance program, and wait too long doing potential harm, and can cause some problems removing all the crud. Often times when dirty injectors are noticed, theres dirty valves, etc. wich can cause knocking and most engines that have the crud build-up takes a while to clean, anyway IMO it's better not to wait to this point.
This method causes a lot more WEAR.
IMO #2 also has risks of the upper Cyl's not getting enough lubrication, and it still can allow build up in some areas, so though you are better of than maybe #1 (but still causes extra wear); it's still better doing #3, because only a small % of the fuel is "treated properly" and most is not treated enough.
IMO #3 assures you of a proper cleaning, and if you pick your product right; you will get upper Cyl lube, cleaning, fuel stability, reduced wear & emissions, and even protection from moistue.
IMO: I'd stick with the method you are using:
Buying the Plus and adding the additive, this shall prove good to you in the long run.
