o.k. to go 0/5w20 in a EJ25 12' Suburu Outback?
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I wouldn't want to run lighter than the manufacturer specs. Might affect the warranty status.
Just stick with XW-30. Been running a variety of 5W-30 in my Subaru since new and still runs like new.
A synthetic xW-20 has about the same viscosity as a conventional 5W-30 after the conventional 5W-30 permanently shears to a lower viscosity. So, a synthetic xW-20 is probably OK, as long as you don't see excessive oil consumption or tailpipe smoke (when taking off from a stop after a red light) due to lower viscosity.
My question would be, "why?"
In most cases you can go up or down a grade without issue, but why would you want to on a brand new car that's still under warranty?
In most cases you can go up or down a grade without issue, but why would you want to on a brand new car that's still under warranty?
Unless this engine is known for excessive wear, you don't need xW-40, as it will cause sluggish performance and lower fuel economy. 5W-40 is thicker than 0W-40 even at normal operating temperature.
Stick with a synthetic xW-30 or try a synthetic xW-20 if you like, to see how it runs. As I said, a conventional 5W-30 has about the same viscosity as a synthetic xW-20 after it shears (oil after about 1,000 miles in use). A synthetic 5W-30 shouldn't shear much. You will also see better gas mileage and more horsepower (less friction) with a synthetic throughout the oil's life.
Stick with a synthetic xW-30 or try a synthetic xW-20 if you like, to see how it runs. As I said, a conventional 5W-30 has about the same viscosity as a synthetic xW-20 after it shears (oil after about 1,000 miles in use). A synthetic 5W-30 shouldn't shear much. You will also see better gas mileage and more horsepower (less friction) with a synthetic throughout the oil's life.
You need to use recommended oil grade to maintain warranty, after it expired then you can experience thinner or heavier grade, depend on how you use your Subaru, if you want too.
Originally Posted By: jek
Any thoughts on going with a mobil ow40 or t6. i'm just throwing this out there that's all guys.just getting opinions that's all. perhaps the w30 is the ideal. i do here about t6 seeming to do well, but not sure on the na's.
Lot of subie enthusiasts swear by T6, probably turbo?
Any thoughts on going with a mobil ow40 or t6. i'm just throwing this out there that's all guys.just getting opinions that's all. perhaps the w30 is the ideal. i do here about t6 seeming to do well, but not sure on the na's.
Lot of subie enthusiasts swear by T6, probably turbo?
Originally Posted By: jek
such a tough guy behind that keyboard aren't ya. yeh,your right if i run anything other than the specified weight the engine is doomed.
Look, you asked a question, people tried to help and invested their time to answer. Now, you don't like the answer. Why did you ask in the first time?
such a tough guy behind that keyboard aren't ya. yeh,your right if i run anything other than the specified weight the engine is doomed.
Look, you asked a question, people tried to help and invested their time to answer. Now, you don't like the answer. Why did you ask in the first time?
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Originally Posted By: jek
Any thoughts on going with a mobil ow40 or t6. i'm just throwing this out there that's all guys.just getting opinions that's all. perhaps the w30 is the ideal. i do here about t6 seeming to do well, but not sure on the na's.
Lot of subie enthusiasts swear by T6, probably turbo?
Yes, because turbo (and because racecar!). The NA models are different though-that is, they're easy on oil. The EJ22 and EJ25x (non-turbo) cars are spec'd for 5w-30, with a 7500mi oci. Some of the older EJ18 and EJ20 motor spec'd 10w-40 back in the day if I still remember right. I've seen at least one UOA on an older legacy where he ran whatever 5w-30 the dealer put in for that long, and while the TBN was shot by then, he was just fine.
IMHO, what you're running in your sig is just fine-it's cheap, it's good, and won't void your warranty. I've never heard of SoA voiding warranties for using oil that was the wrong grade (at least first hand), but they will void people that never change it-hold on to your receipts, and date when/how many miles when you do it. My friend of a friend leased a '07 Impreza 2.5 RS this way, and caused zero problems when he went to finally turn it in (bought a '09 Legacy GT afterward).
Even after the warranty ends, couldn't think of a good reason to run 5w-20. Maybe if you were a hardcore hyper-miler (buy something else) or lived in the great white north (buy a block heater), that's about it. Subaru engines will put up with lots of abuse and general stupidity-besides doing drop-clutch launches at 5000 rpm or NEVER rotating tires, there isn't an easy way to kill one.
Originally Posted By: jek
Any thoughts on going with a mobil ow40 or t6. i'm just throwing this out there that's all guys.just getting opinions that's all. perhaps the w30 is the ideal. i do here about t6 seeming to do well, but not sure on the na's.
Lot of subie enthusiasts swear by T6, probably turbo?
Yes, because turbo (and because racecar!). The NA models are different though-that is, they're easy on oil. The EJ22 and EJ25x (non-turbo) cars are spec'd for 5w-30, with a 7500mi oci. Some of the older EJ18 and EJ20 motor spec'd 10w-40 back in the day if I still remember right. I've seen at least one UOA on an older legacy where he ran whatever 5w-30 the dealer put in for that long, and while the TBN was shot by then, he was just fine.
IMHO, what you're running in your sig is just fine-it's cheap, it's good, and won't void your warranty. I've never heard of SoA voiding warranties for using oil that was the wrong grade (at least first hand), but they will void people that never change it-hold on to your receipts, and date when/how many miles when you do it. My friend of a friend leased a '07 Impreza 2.5 RS this way, and caused zero problems when he went to finally turn it in (bought a '09 Legacy GT afterward).
Even after the warranty ends, couldn't think of a good reason to run 5w-20. Maybe if you were a hardcore hyper-miler (buy something else) or lived in the great white north (buy a block heater), that's about it. Subaru engines will put up with lots of abuse and general stupidity-besides doing drop-clutch launches at 5000 rpm or NEVER rotating tires, there isn't an easy way to kill one.
Your Subie shares an engine with my Forester.
I don't know about your MY '12 car, but the OM of my MY '09 allows for just about any grade you can think of that is at least a thirty.
If Subaru thought a twenty was okay for this engine, they'd spec it.
I'd stick with at least a thirty.
The NA flat four seems to do well with anything resembling oil.
I'll have a 5K UOA of Synpower 10W-30 here in August.
I expect very low wear metal numbers, and I am curious as to what TBN and shearing will be on the Synpower.
I posted a very clean 4.6K UOA of our old Impreza 2.2, running PP 5W-30, so I think that the engine will be fine with whatever you want to run, although I'd avoid a twenty, just based upon Subaru's recs.
I don't know about your MY '12 car, but the OM of my MY '09 allows for just about any grade you can think of that is at least a thirty.
If Subaru thought a twenty was okay for this engine, they'd spec it.
I'd stick with at least a thirty.
The NA flat four seems to do well with anything resembling oil.
I'll have a 5K UOA of Synpower 10W-30 here in August.
I expect very low wear metal numbers, and I am curious as to what TBN and shearing will be on the Synpower.
I posted a very clean 4.6K UOA of our old Impreza 2.2, running PP 5W-30, so I think that the engine will be fine with whatever you want to run, although I'd avoid a twenty, just based upon Subaru's recs.
Originally Posted By: Xstang
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Originally Posted By: jek
Any thoughts on going with a mobil ow40 or t6. i'm just throwing this out there that's all guys.just getting opinions that's all. perhaps the w30 is the ideal. i do here about t6 seeming to do well, but not sure on the na's.
Lot of subie enthusiasts swear by T6, probably turbo?
Yes, because turbo (and because racecar!). The NA models are different though-that is, they're easy on oil. The EJ22 and EJ25x (non-turbo) cars are spec'd for 5w-30, with a 7500mi oci. Some of the older EJ18 and EJ20 motor spec'd 10w-40 back in the day if I still remember right. I've seen at least one UOA on an older legacy where he ran whatever 5w-30 the dealer put in for that long, and while the TBN was shot by then, he was just fine.
IMHO, what you're running in your sig is just fine-it's cheap, it's good, and won't void your warranty. I've never heard of SoA voiding warranties for using oil that was the wrong grade (at least first hand), but they will void people that never change it-hold on to your receipts, and date when/how many miles when you do it. My friend of a friend leased a '07 Impreza 2.5 RS this way, and caused zero problems when he went to finally turn it in (bought a '09 Legacy GT afterward).
Even after the warranty ends, couldn't think of a good reason to run 5w-20. Maybe if you were a hardcore hyper-miler (buy something else) or lived in the great white north (buy a block heater), that's about it. Subaru engines will put up with lots of abuse and general stupidity-besides doing drop-clutch launches at 5000 rpm or NEVER rotating tires, there isn't an easy way to kill one.
thanks for the info...
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Originally Posted By: jek
Any thoughts on going with a mobil ow40 or t6. i'm just throwing this out there that's all guys.just getting opinions that's all. perhaps the w30 is the ideal. i do here about t6 seeming to do well, but not sure on the na's.
Lot of subie enthusiasts swear by T6, probably turbo?
Yes, because turbo (and because racecar!). The NA models are different though-that is, they're easy on oil. The EJ22 and EJ25x (non-turbo) cars are spec'd for 5w-30, with a 7500mi oci. Some of the older EJ18 and EJ20 motor spec'd 10w-40 back in the day if I still remember right. I've seen at least one UOA on an older legacy where he ran whatever 5w-30 the dealer put in for that long, and while the TBN was shot by then, he was just fine.
IMHO, what you're running in your sig is just fine-it's cheap, it's good, and won't void your warranty. I've never heard of SoA voiding warranties for using oil that was the wrong grade (at least first hand), but they will void people that never change it-hold on to your receipts, and date when/how many miles when you do it. My friend of a friend leased a '07 Impreza 2.5 RS this way, and caused zero problems when he went to finally turn it in (bought a '09 Legacy GT afterward).
Even after the warranty ends, couldn't think of a good reason to run 5w-20. Maybe if you were a hardcore hyper-miler (buy something else) or lived in the great white north (buy a block heater), that's about it. Subaru engines will put up with lots of abuse and general stupidity-besides doing drop-clutch launches at 5000 rpm or NEVER rotating tires, there isn't an easy way to kill one.
thanks for the info...
Yes, there are lots of turbo owners running RT6 and other 40 weights, as well as a few n/a owners, but they're not needed in the n/a cars IMO. Subaru did allow 40 and 50 grades up until model year 2011 in all EJ engines. Even though most 5W-30's would have a 20 grade operating viscosity anyway, I probably wouldn't run a 5W-20 but there have been people here that have done so. Here's an 8k run on Mobil conventional 5W-30 from a 2.5i.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2375274
-Dennis
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2375274
-Dennis
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
a synthetic xW-20 is probably OK, as long as you don't see excessive oil consumption or tailpipe smoke (when taking off from a stop after a red light) due to lower viscosity.
Tailpipe smoke in a new car running a slightly lighter 20wt oil to spec'? Now that's funny as it could NEVER happen.
For jek, stick with the spec' 5W-30 grade and since you want to use the lightest oil possible go with PP 5W-30. It's currently the lightest 30wt oil available in the States.
After the warranty expires you could certainly use a 20wt oil especially if you have an oil pressure gauge to confirm you don't run the operational to low if you submit the car to some extreme usage like heavy trailer towing.
a synthetic xW-20 is probably OK, as long as you don't see excessive oil consumption or tailpipe smoke (when taking off from a stop after a red light) due to lower viscosity.
Tailpipe smoke in a new car running a slightly lighter 20wt oil to spec'? Now that's funny as it could NEVER happen.
For jek, stick with the spec' 5W-30 grade and since you want to use the lightest oil possible go with PP 5W-30. It's currently the lightest 30wt oil available in the States.
After the warranty expires you could certainly use a 20wt oil especially if you have an oil pressure gauge to confirm you don't run the operational to low if you submit the car to some extreme usage like heavy trailer towing.
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