Mobil 1 is bad for Air Cooled Mowers???

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I live across the street from a mower shop... one of the regions best. While talking to the owner (Who is a Wolf's Head Distributor)... we got into the Syn/Conv. discussion.

He said that many commercial landscapers were trying M1 in their mowers... and when the valves needed adjusted, there was a nasty green slime built up under the cover. This didn't happen on the conventional oil users.

Although I don't have 100% of the facts, like how many hours they ran the M1, It goes make me wonder about an air cooled engine and full synth...

My mowers just get 10w30 if they are OHV, and HD30 if they are flat head.. never experienced any issues that way.. 15-20 years of mowing...
 
It's not synthetic that is causing the slime, it is additives.

>Also could be here-say>Also could be trying to sell you wolfs head.
 
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I have M1 in my mower right now in fact its waayyy overdue and its just fine inside. I actually changed the head gasket the other day and there was no green slime or any bad signs for that matter.
 
I personally think it's hogwash.


From an air-cooled perspective: oil is oil is oil. The primary difference between conventional water-cooled IC engine vs air-cooled IC engine is that while former type runs in a thermally-controlled fashion (oil temp variation while engine @ operating temp is very small); air-cooled engine exhibits a larger variation of thermal conditions and that, in return, resulted in the higher rate of oil vapourisation during high load/high-heat/poor-cooling situations.

and yes, typical 10W30 will "boil" off at a higher rate than that of a monovisc SAE30. That being said however, even B&S (the biggest OPE maker in NA) now recommends the use of syn multivisc oil in the line of products:

http://www.briggsandstratton.com/support/frequently-asked-questions/Engine Oil Recommendations/


2 issues typically go along with the oil consumption RE: ope engine types:

(1) the lack of valve stem seals. This is rather common on flatheads and some versions of OHV..so oil will seep past the valve stem and guide and get burned in the combustion chamber (esp. when the clearances becomes bigger as the engine ages).

(2) thinner grade oil gets "boiled" off at a much higher rate than, say, monovisc SAE30. A more robust higher visc syn oil (like 10W30/10W40, 15W40, etc. or even 5W30 during winter time) would work wonders for these syn base oil resists "boil offs" better than those multi-vis conventional oils of yore.

I personally take your small engine shop's comment with a grain of salt, citing that:

A. I treat all OPE (be it my own or the ones that require my help fixing) the same: I use whatever I have on-hand (10W30/15W40, semi-syn, delo, HDEO, etc.) I do warn the owners that they must check their oil level everytime before they start they work (mow job) and top them up whenever possible.

B. Most of the OPE engine owners neglect their machines so badly, that oil is the least on of their worries (concerns). my 675 missed oil changes for 6 seasons in a row and does that tells you a story?

Lastly: i typically question many small local engine shops knowledge and integrity, citing that (a) many of them would lie through their teeth just to get by, either intentionally (like E10 was the cause of their engine issues (which 9out of10 was not); and (b) they lied about services performed and overcharged customers for jobs that they didn't perform.

Lastly: to me, Mobil-1 is just another syn oil by a national brand, and I treat it just like any other national brand of syn based motor oil (nothing special to me).

Q.
 
Here in sunny Florida we run 15w-50 M1 in almost everything outside.

Subaru Robin powered Genset, Honda powered trash pump, Briggs Riding mower, Briggs trim mower, etc. All run great and seem quite happy.

Personally I have decided that almost any brand of synthetic is likely to be better than you need.
 
Originally Posted By: DemoFly
It's not synthetic that is causing the slime, it is additives.

>Also could be here-say>Also could be trying to sell you wolfs head.


Agreed...

I've had M1 0W-40 in a OHC Honda engine for close to a year now, no green slime...
 
Yeah, when exposed to high temps, M1 turns Deere green...

that is one strange statement. unless they have some engines suffering from heavy coolant leaks, then you may get some green goo if you have a auto like engine. But on a OPE? Sounds impossible.
 
Got Amsoil small engine in my Honda 160. Got some old GC gold waiting to go in at some point. Change it every season and you'll be fine.
 
I figured the commercial guys were running their motors too hard, but I thought it was worth asking. The engines in question were all OHV's... I have an OHV Kohler walk mower, and it doesn't see that many hours... 1-2 hours a week... so I can get though a season on conv. 10w-30 just fine.

Knowing the owner, he's not pitching me on Wolf... he knows I use Mag 1... he really doesn't care what oil you use if it's up to snuff. Wolf is where he gets the best deals... and it does work fine in mowers. I used it in my pre-Mag1 years.
 
I am one of the rare folks that has had a bad M1 experience.

For two years I ran M1 5-30 in my honda push mower. it was set up to mulch and it worked Hard. I changed the oil 2x per year, probably about every 50 hours. At the end of 2 years, it was still draining sparklies and was coughing blue smoke on startup.

I changed to Rotella 5-40 and the sparkles went away. the smoking was reduced but was consistent few puffs after that.

I experienced M1 5-30 shearing some in my DD years ago. I won't use M1 5-30 at all. never had a problem with their 10-30 or 5-20. I won't put M1 in any OPE though I'm ok with it in a car.

M
 
That's what I was thinking... it depends on how HARD you're working the motor. I thought this would be an interesting discussion, because stuff like M1 and MMO are sacred cows around here.. I don't think M1 is junk, just not planning to use it in a mower.
 
I have used M1 5W30 or 10W30 in my Honda 160 OHC engine since I purchased it back in 2000. I used the oil that came with it for the 5 hours recommended, then changed over to M1 5W30 SL, and changed it once a year. Never, ever, was it down on oil on the dipstick in a one year, average 60 hour OCI. I have an hour meter on it, and it now has about 700 hours on it.

It still uses no oil in a one year OCI. I am using M1 5W30 HM oil now, since it is still SL.
 
Originally Posted By: WMSmotorhead
That's what I was thinking... it depends on how HARD you're working the motor. I thought this would be an interesting discussion, because stuff like M1 and MMO are sacred cows around here.. I don't think M1 is junk, just not planning to use it in a mower.


call me dumb but I simply don't see the correlation between (cause and effect) of using M1 and the development of green slime under the cover. Are these green-slime related to moisture?

Working an engine hard is one thing(and syn oil should be capable of handling such breakdowns with ease due to more robust base oil), what green slime is that shop owner talking about.

I personally think this discussion isn't going anywhere unless we have the full details from the shop owner and/or pics to follow. Otherwise: it just classify as "hearsay".

My 2c's worth.


Q.
 
I usually run 15w40 or (preferably) HDEO 30W. Never gave 15W-50 much thought before, but it sounds like a good idea.
 
Mobil 1 is great for some engines, not others. My sister's Civic runs great on 0w20 AFE, and my Dad's M-B GL runs well on the 5w40 M1. I have had issues with it burning off in small engines though. It just doesn't make sense to me to run an expensive synthetic oil in an air cooled engine when it will burn off, especially when that specific engine doesn't burn a drop of oil using other brands.

Green slime? I doubt it, but I will never use Mobil 1 in OPE for other reasons.
 
My Snapper push mower (6.5 HP B&S) is 14 years old and for years I have been using Mobil 1 0W-40 in it. Before that I used Mobil 1 5W30 and 10W30. So far no problems.
 
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