Best oil to clean sludge ?

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Originally Posted By: rrounds
LOL I don't know if I would want a 2 qt. filter on a engine that came off the side of the block. Lot of weight out at the end of the filter.

ROD


And the filter designer would never have thought of that....?
 
Originally Posted By: TooManyWheels
Originally Posted By: rrounds
LOL I don't know if I would want a 2 qt. filter on a engine that came off the side of the block. Lot of weight out at the end of the filter.

ROD


And the filter designer would never have thought of that....?


It would be the engine designer that would have to think about it in this case, and if that isn't the spec'd filter for the application, you can bet they didn't think about it.
 
If the filter had an issue mounted sideways, it would say "this way up"

Anyway, just because it is mounted like a bucket, a fair bit of oil will drain back, leaving the galleries empty on a SBC/BBC
 
thanks for all the suggestions. I do believe I will run PU 5w30 and change filter at 1000 miles and hopefully the carbon will eventually clean all out.

does anyone know the filtering specs of the Pure One filter compared to just the regular Purolator filter? * just reviewed the Purolator website and will stick to using the Pure One filter at this time.
 
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What about only using VWB....to clean up your engine?

Don't you think that the sodium fortified add pack, in Valvoline White Bottle, would clean up the sludge and dirt in no time?

There may be no need for full synthetic or oil additives. If an engine needed an oil additive to keep it clean, don't you think, by now, that all the major motor oils would have that additive included in their add pack?
 
I'm not sure where everybody gets the idea that motor oil, in this case the golden boy PU, can clean out sludge quickly as if it were a solvent? Because even solvents may have trouble cleaning some some sludge deposits.

Could it be that Castrol commercials, that everybody laughed at, planted the seeds? What's hilarious though is that now PU is the cure for everything under the sun. Got some varnish, PU will clean it out in no time. Sludge? No problem, just change it every 1000 miles
crackmeup2.gif


Do people giving this kind of "advice" even consider the amount of time it will take for a regular oil to clean out sludge? Do they expect people to change their expensive PU every 1k for the next 20-30k miles? Because I don't believe for one second that regular oil can do any significant amount of cleaning in few OCIs.

And last and probably the biggest issue is since when marketing gibberish became a gospel on this site? Again, people used to laugh at Castrol claims, what’s so different about Pennzoil?
Oil manufacturers can claim all they want how well their oil cleans sludge when compared to other oils, but this is not a primary function of the oil, period. So whatever cleaning that might be happening will not be significant and will take a long time.

In this thread we have no idea what kind of sludge we're dealing with and if it causes any issues with engine operation. All we have is a couple of pics of oil filter.
OP said that he run the Amsoil flush. That should be enough for now and short OCIs with the cheapest oil should be prescribed, as it was by few people that did not fall the advertising hype.
 
If the Tahoe runs fine, I don't see the need for a quick cleanup. Keep the next couple OCI's short and just drive it. Bulk 15w40 always did a fine job in our high mileage 5.7L Suburbans, but do whatever makes you happy.
 
I love this site.

I just went passed 1000 miles so this weekend i will change filter and cut it open. not sure yet if i will change oil to PU. it still looks and smells brand new on dipstick. right now i have 2.5 quarts Amsoil 10w30 XL and 2.5 quarts 5w30 Pennzoil Platinum in it. I will cut filter open and decide if i will change it then. I have decided i will run PU from now on and change filter every 1K miles until the filters look better.

based on my 60 mile filter i wont be running Amsoil Flush again. personally dont want to.

I have a 99 Mountaineer that at 98K started using Amsoil and now has 245K and those filters look brand new when i cut it open on 8 months 8K miles change and and 99 Malibu that i went 20.5 months and 23,600 miles and the filter looked brand new on it also. April of 2010 till Jan 2012 this car has a 4 quart system and i have to add a quart every 4-5K. the Mountaineer barely needs 1/2 a quart a year added.

my goal is to clean it out over time, i know there is no snake oil that will make it spotless instantly.

I really do appreciate everyone's opinion and advice.
 
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
I'm not sure where everybody gets the idea that motor oil, in this case the golden boy PU, can clean out sludge quickly as if it were a solvent? Because even solvents may have trouble cleaning some some sludge deposits.

Could it be that Castrol commercials, that everybody laughed at, planted the seeds? What's hilarious though is that now PU is the cure for everything under the sun. Got some varnish, PU will clean it out in no time. Sludge? No problem, just change it every 1000 miles
crackmeup2.gif


Do people giving this kind of "advice" even consider the amount of time it will take for a regular oil to clean out sludge? Do they expect people to change their expensive PU every 1k for the next 20-30k miles? Because I don't believe for one second that regular oil can do any significant amount of cleaning in few OCIs.

And last and probably the biggest issue is since when marketing gibberish became a gospel on this site? Again, people used to laugh at Castrol claims, what’s so different about Pennzoil?
Oil manufacturers can claim all they want how well their oil cleans sludge when compared to other oils, but this is not a primary function of the oil, period. So whatever cleaning that might be happening will not be significant and will take a long time.

In this thread we have no idea what kind of sludge we're dealing with and if it causes any issues with engine operation. All we have is a couple of pics of oil filter.
OP said that he run the Amsoil flush. That should be enough for now and short OCIs with the cheapest oil should be prescribed, as it was by few people that did not fall the advertising hype.

Very, very well said! This stuff may have cleaning properties, but in the end it's just motor oil, and cleaning is only one of its many jobs.

Some people seem to think that filling their crankcase with PP or PU (and some others) is akin to pouring in paint thinner. It'll clean it right up in no time!
 
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
I'm not sure where everybody gets the idea that motor oil, in this case the golden boy PU, can clean out sludge quickly as if it were a solvent? Because even solvents may have trouble cleaning some some sludge deposits.

Do people giving this kind of "advice" even consider the amount of time it will take for a regular oil to clean out sludge? Do they expect people to change their expensive PU every 1k for the next 20-30k miles? Because I don't believe for one second that regular oil can do any significant amount of cleaning in few OCIs.



Exactly. I've tried to clean my previously neglected Jeep using short OCI's and high detergent oils (Rotella, PYB, Maxlife) and I can tell you progress appears to be little to none. I'm sure all of these oils do a wonderful job of keeping an engine clean, but cleaning up a neglected one looks to be a 75 to 100k proposition, if that.

I'm going back to my MMO, it's slow but at least I could see a little progress when I used it.
 
did the last two commentors look at the videos of the filters and the amount of carbon its cleaning out?

I am 100% sure what i am doing is cleaning it out and based on how much carbon is in the filters i would say its very effective.
 
Originally Posted By: Arctic388
did the last two commentors look at the videos of the filters and the amount of carbon its cleaning out?

I am 100% sure what i am doing is cleaning it out and based on how much carbon is in the filters i would say its very effective.



I saw the video and it is the Amsoil flush that did the majority of cleaning and softening the sludge not the oil, so whatever did not get removed with the flush is finding its way into the filter, hence some recommendations to run the cheapest oil you can find, as this "shedding" will continue not because of PU, but because of the flush, and you have to change oil and filter often in order to avoid any potential clogging.
But it’s your money, you can waste them however you see fit.
 
the most loaded up filter was before the flush.

are you trying to say Amsoil flush run per directions only softens the carbon and is filtered out over the the next few OCI ?
 
We have a 1999 Lexus RX300 we bought a couple of years ago with 92K miles on it. I remember looking at the dipstick with a significant amount of varnish on it. I have been running the Ultra in it for some time now. I am amazed everytime I do an oil change( Every 5K ) and see less varnish on the dipstick. We now have 122K on the vehicle and there is no varnish what so ever on the dipstick. I am a firm believer in the Ultra and feel it really does a great job of cleaning. I am sure others do a fine job, but this is what I know.
 
I am also a proponent of PU and feel it will clean the engine slowly and therefore safely. I would continue to cut the oil filters open and if they look anything like the one in the photo, I would change the filter more frequently. For example, halfway through the oil Change Interval, change the filter and leave the oil in. Top it off as required. I do not think a solvent based cleaner like MMO is a good idea because it may loosen the varnish and sludge in chunks and these may foul up the oil pick up screen. That could be catastrophic to the engine oil pressure.
 
The extra cleaners in M1 HM worked as advertised. Saved the Camry in my signature. The assumption was I was buying a car that needed a new engine. Unable to idle without stalling, ticking/rapping terribly, would overflow at the valve cover filler hole if I poured in oil too fast. Worst sludge problem I've ever seen. After 3 M1 HM OC's the engine was quiet, smooth. Its still running today, 80k later.
 
I agree with the others that correctly state that no oil is a miracle cure for sludge build up. Not only that but anything that promises a quick or even immediate solution is potentially dangerous to your engine if it actually delivers because of loosened large particulate matter that could clog passages or the oil pump,ect.

Best bet it to go with an HDEO for a gradual safe cleaning when you arrive at the results you want then switch back to a regular passenger car motor oil.

Stay away from the snake oil like MMO, ect.
 
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