I was looking into replace the pcv on my 2000 silverado 5.3l, and some mention I should use the fixed orifice pcv valve, any one here know about this ? can walk me through this. Thanks
fixed orifice pcv valve for 2000 GM 5.3L
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The factory PCV in both my '01 LS1 and '02 4.8L truck were fixed-orifice type and have worked very well. I experimented with a Purolator check valve type on the car, and oil consumption increased significantly (1.5 qt in a HPDE track day comprised of four 30min sessions).
I'd pull the PCV valve that's on the truck and see what's there...if it's a fixed-orifice unit you just need to clean and reinstall it.
I'd pull the PCV valve that's on the truck and see what's there...if it's a fixed-orifice unit you just need to clean and reinstall it.
Originally Posted By: crainholio
The factory PCV in both my '01 LS1 and '02 4.8L truck were fixed-orifice type and have worked very well. I experimented with a Purolator check valve type on the car, and oil consumption increased significantly (1.5 qt in a HPDE track day comprised of four 30min sessions).
I'd pull the PCV valve that's on the truck and see what's there...if it's a fixed-orifice unit you just need to clean and reinstall it.
how can I tell the differernt between those 2 ? I did a search but they look the same, mabe im search wrong.
The factory PCV in both my '01 LS1 and '02 4.8L truck were fixed-orifice type and have worked very well. I experimented with a Purolator check valve type on the car, and oil consumption increased significantly (1.5 qt in a HPDE track day comprised of four 30min sessions).
I'd pull the PCV valve that's on the truck and see what's there...if it's a fixed-orifice unit you just need to clean and reinstall it.
how can I tell the differernt between those 2 ? I did a search but they look the same, mabe im search wrong.
Originally Posted By: beast3300
Its on the valve cover driverside all the way in the back. The fixed orifice looks like a pcv but it has nothing in it. So if you shake it nothing happens.
so If I buy the new style pcv valve, it direct swap ? like pull old one out and put new one in ? no other modification ?
Its on the valve cover driverside all the way in the back. The fixed orifice looks like a pcv but it has nothing in it. So if you shake it nothing happens.
so If I buy the new style pcv valve, it direct swap ? like pull old one out and put new one in ? no other modification ?
Originally Posted By: MetalSlug
how can I tell the differernt between those 2 ? I did a search but they look the same, mabe im search wrong.
If you hold the fixed-orifice valve up and look into the opening, you can see straight through the valve.
A conventional check valve type will have a ball or plate blocking the large end. They are very easy to distinguish.
It is likely that your truck already has a fixed-orifice valve...however it may need cleaning.
how can I tell the differernt between those 2 ? I did a search but they look the same, mabe im search wrong.
If you hold the fixed-orifice valve up and look into the opening, you can see straight through the valve.
A conventional check valve type will have a ball or plate blocking the large end. They are very easy to distinguish.
It is likely that your truck already has a fixed-orifice valve...however it may need cleaning.
If it makes no noise when shaken and feels light nd the Hol at the bottom is very small its a fixed orfice if not its the conventional style I have one on my Saturn it helps
Originally Posted By: MetalSlug
Originally Posted By: beast3300
Its on the valve cover driverside all the way in the back. The fixed orifice looks like a pcv but it has nothing in it. So if you shake it nothing happens.
so If I buy the new style pcv valve, it direct swap ? like pull old one out and put new one in ? no other modification ?
I have no idea.
Originally Posted By: beast3300
Its on the valve cover driverside all the way in the back. The fixed orifice looks like a pcv but it has nothing in it. So if you shake it nothing happens.
so If I buy the new style pcv valve, it direct swap ? like pull old one out and put new one in ? no other modification ?
I have no idea.
I locate it and it seem like old style, tomorrow going dealer get the update one.
Race track oil use does not equate to what is best for a street car.
Metering at full throttle and normal cruising is way different.
Metering at full throttle and normal cruising is way different.
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Race track oil use does not equate to what is best for a street car.
Metering at full throttle and normal cruising is way different.
what r u talking about ?
Race track oil use does not equate to what is best for a street car.
Metering at full throttle and normal cruising is way different.
what r u talking about ?
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Race track oil use does not equate to what is best for a street car.
Metering at full throttle and normal cruising is way different.
Absolutely. But it does demonstrate that the check-ball PCV was not making the engine happy at either WOT or high vacuum deceleration...or both.
Race track oil use does not equate to what is best for a street car.
Metering at full throttle and normal cruising is way different.
Absolutely. But it does demonstrate that the check-ball PCV was not making the engine happy at either WOT or high vacuum deceleration...or both.
Originally Posted By: MetalSlug
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Race track oil use does not equate to what is best for a street car.
Metering at full throttle and normal cruising is way different.
what r u talking about ?
Mechtech2 was correctly pointing out that track conditions do not make for a good test in this case.
Unless your street use is nearly 100% wide open throttle (100KPa intake pressure) and high-rpm (high vacuum) deceleration, that is...
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Race track oil use does not equate to what is best for a street car.
Metering at full throttle and normal cruising is way different.
what r u talking about ?
Mechtech2 was correctly pointing out that track conditions do not make for a good test in this case.
Unless your street use is nearly 100% wide open throttle (100KPa intake pressure) and high-rpm (high vacuum) deceleration, that is...
There was a TSB on replacing the PCV valve in 1999 -2002 GM truck engines with the fixed orifice valve.
http://www.chevyavalanchefanclub.com/cafcna/index.php?topic=3606.0
Starting in 2003 all of them came with the fixed orifice valve. And starting in 2004 the fixed orifice PCV valve was made in the valve cover and is not replacable.
http://www.chevyavalanchefanclub.com/cafcna/index.php?topic=3606.0
Starting in 2003 all of them came with the fixed orifice valve. And starting in 2004 the fixed orifice PCV valve was made in the valve cover and is not replacable.
Originally Posted By: endeavor to persevere
There was a TSB on replacing the PCV valve in 1999 -2002 GM truck engines with the fixed orifice valve.
http://www.chevyavalanchefanclub.com/cafcna/index.php?topic=3606.0
Starting in 2003 all of them came with the fixed orifice valve. And starting in 2004 the fixed orifice PCV valve was made in the valve cover and is not replacable.
Nice, going to dealer tomorrow, and for few other fluid too.
There was a TSB on replacing the PCV valve in 1999 -2002 GM truck engines with the fixed orifice valve.
http://www.chevyavalanchefanclub.com/cafcna/index.php?topic=3606.0
Starting in 2003 all of them came with the fixed orifice valve. And starting in 2004 the fixed orifice PCV valve was made in the valve cover and is not replacable.
Nice, going to dealer tomorrow, and for few other fluid too.
Originally Posted By: crainholio
Originally Posted By: MetalSlug
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Race track oil use does not equate to what is best for a street car.
Metering at full throttle and normal cruising is way different.
what r u talking about ?
Mechtech2 was correctly pointing out that track conditions do not make for a good test in this case.
Unless your street use is nearly 100% wide open throttle (100KPa intake pressure) and high-rpm (high vacuum) deceleration, that is...
Thank you.
Originally Posted By: MetalSlug
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Race track oil use does not equate to what is best for a street car.
Metering at full throttle and normal cruising is way different.
what r u talking about ?
Mechtech2 was correctly pointing out that track conditions do not make for a good test in this case.
Unless your street use is nearly 100% wide open throttle (100KPa intake pressure) and high-rpm (high vacuum) deceleration, that is...
Thank you.
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