stuck spark plug toyota 4.7 tundra

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Been trying to get out stuck plug. I have soaked it with wd40 and marvels for 4 hours yesterday. I put some bees wax down in plug hole today with engine good and hot melted in. Gonna try removing plug when engine is cold in the morning. Plug will turn about a half of turn.
 
That is scary, good job not breaking it off.

Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Go back and forth. Over and over with lube.
Good luck!


+1
 
I would be afraid the wax would seal the threads so that a good penetrant like kroil can get in now. Any idea how many miles are on the plugs? My grandma went 160,000m on the oem ngks in her BMW. I caught heck trying to get them out, I tried fogging the engine to maybe loosen them from the inside but it didn't help.
 
You need something better than WD40 if you cant get Kroil use PB blaster.
Warm up the engine (not hot) for about 5 min and soak the plug for about 10 min and work it back and forth till it comes out.
Aluminum expands more than the steel plug and warming it will provide the little bit of extra clearance it needs to come out easier.

I suggest once its out you run a spark plug thread chaser down it, you can get this at any parts store and use just a little never seize on the new plugs so you never have this problem again.
When using never seize just snug them up firmly, not need to wrench down on them as the never seize reduces the amount of torque needed.
 
Trav's got it: PB'laster, warm aluminum, back and forth, gently...if you're forcing it, you're likely messing up the threads.

Get a thread chaser, you can use a tap, but the thread chaser is less aggressive...and you'll want the threads cleaned up once this is out...
 
I've used electric impact guns to remove plugs before. The hammering action loosens the threads without stripping them. Intuitively, you'd think an impact gun would kill the threads, but it's really the slow, gradual torque of a breaker bar or similar that will twist them.

I used an electric impact gun to zip all eight plugs out of my '97 Cadillac Northstar engine with 140,000 miles on the plugs. They had never been removed prior. They all came out fairly easily with the gun.
 
Still stuck but I have more movement. Im gonna let it soak with a penetrant oil overnight next.
 
Patience, its going to take time when they are that tight.
The more you can move it back and forth with penetrating oil down there the better.
 
Originally Posted By: AVB
I would be afraid the wax would seal the threads so that a good penetrant like kroil can get in now. Any idea how many miles are on the plugs? My grandma went 160,000m on the oem ngks in her BMW. I caught heck trying to get them out, I tried fogging the engine to maybe loosen them from the inside but it didn't help.


Excellent point! [wax is a seal]
But I guess he could use wax with a propane torch to keep it lubed.
 
Heated the socket, broke lose the wax. Plug still moves the same amount. I found some liquid wrench in garage, it is soaking.
 
I have to disagree with "just snug them up" when using anti seize. Decrease the torque by 5 to 10 percent if it makes you feel better, but you should be using a torque wrench to install plugs, and you should be using anti sieze even at full torque setting. I have never had any trouble using full torque+anti sieze On my Japanese aluminum engine heads. Ymmv


Originally Posted By: Trav
You need something better than WD40 if you cant get Kroil use PB blaster.
Warm up the engine (not hot) for about 5 min and soak the plug for about 10 min and work it back and forth till it comes out.
Aluminum expands more than the steel plug and warming it will provide the little bit of extra clearance it needs to come out easier.

I suggest once its out you run a spark plug thread chaser down it, you can get this at any parts store and use just a little never seize on the new plugs so you never have this problem again.
When using never seize just snug them up firmly, not need to wrench down on them as the never seize reduces the amount of torque needed.
 
Well got the plug out seems like the liquid wrench did its job. Saved my neighbor some cash. Patience was the key. Put new plug in with permatex anti-sieze, threads were not damaged.
 
Quote:
and you should be using anti sieze even at full torque setting

I'm a big advocate of using a torque wrench but you assume the OP has a torque wrench small enough to be accurate at this low setting and he has room to use it, a 1/2" drive isn't going to cut it.

More importantly you are not taking into account that the thread strength maybe less at this point.
Reducing torque when using never seize is a must on spark plugs.
The last thing the OP needs is to be trying to install time serts in this engine.
 
Glad to hear it. I bet you feel better
grin.gif
 
Originally Posted By: Highline9
Well got the plug out seems like the liquid wrench did its job. Saved my neighbor some cash. Patience was the key. Put new plug in with permatex anti-sieze, threads were not damaged.


When was the last time the plugs were checked?
 
Those plugs were really old. Truck has 198,000 on od. They looked like the originals.They were nippondenso.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
Quote:
and you should be using anti sieze even at full torque setting

I'm a big advocate of using a torque wrench but you assume the OP has a torque wrench small enough to be accurate at this low setting and he has room to use it, a 1/2" drive isn't going to cut it.

More importantly you are not taking into account that the thread strength maybe less at this point.
Reducing torque when using never seize is a must on spark plugs.
The last thing the OP needs is to be trying to install time serts in this engine.


True, if the threads are damaged or you can somehow tell they have less thread strength, yes, use less torque.

As for normal maintenance, I guess it just depends on which school of thought you are from when it comes to anti/never-sieze. I am inclined to believe that using it gives you a "true" reading of torque because it eliminates thread friction that can vary from corrosion, carbon, or whatever. You obviously think a true reading is from dry threads.

I have never had a factory service manual or haynes manual advise me to use less torque if I use anti-sieze, but I'm sure they are out there somewhere.

Regardless, glad to hear the OP has the situation resolved and his threads lovingly coated with anti-sieze. Cheers.
 
Quote:
I guess it just depends on which school of thought you are from when it comes to anti/never-sieze. I am inclined to believe that using it gives you a "true" reading of torque because it eliminates thread friction


Values in service manuals are for clean dry threads unless otherwise specified.
With never seize torque reduction can be as much as 45 percent.
Google is your friend on this subject.
 
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