Leaking radiator, how long can I push it?

[hattaresguy]

I'd have it fixed locally.


I pretty much live on the beach and don't have corrosion issues with any vehicles. Unless your driving in salt water on a regular bases I don't see why your radiator would corrode to the point of leaking in 18 months...

 

[Rick in PA]

Just be sure to actually check the level in the radiator. A leak can suck air when the system cools down. This will leave the coolant level in the reservoir unchanged, while the radiator slowly goes dry...

 

[JosephHarmon]

I thought pressurizing the coolant raised its boiling point?

You are swimming against the current running it with an improper cap pressure.

 

[wrcsixeight]

I always open the radiator to make sure it is still full, and judge the amount lost by the level in the expansion tank, when cool.

As a surfer I frequently park facing the ocean. Waves and onshore winds equal salt mist collecting on my radiator, and my Giant flat grill seems to funnel in the salt laden air.

Every vehicle I've owned has had radiator issues within 4 years.

How much will a 13 psi vs a 16 PSI cap lower the boiling point?

 

[mechtech2]

Most cars have extra cooling capacity.
Running it with the cap loose or a very low pressure cap works for most conditions.
Yes, the boiling point is lowered, but this does not come into play as much as we would think. Run the level low, so expansion does not puke it all over.

And a few lbs of pressure has nothing do do with cavitation or hot spots.

 

[KrisZ]

Quote:
Leaking radiator, how long can I push it?


That depends who's pushing

 

[The_Eric]

Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Most cars have extra cooling capacity.
Running it with the cap loose or a very low pressure cap works for most conditions.
Yes, the boiling point is lowered, but this does not come into play as much as we would think. Run the level low, so expansion does not puke it all over.

And a few lbs of pressure has nothing do do with cavitation or hot spots.


Would you elaborate?

 

[Kestas]

Originally Posted By: mechtech2
And a few lbs of pressure has nothing do do with cavitation or hot spots.

I've been paid to study these issues for one of the automakers. A few pounds can make the difference for cavitation erosion of the coolant passages.

 

[wrcsixeight]

Update.

8+ months later, the leak where the vertical tubes meet the bottom tank has increased slightly. I Have done nothing but make sure the system does not get low. Maybe added a quart of distilled h20 in that time. Low mileage but nearly daily heat cycles.

Also getting some seepage from the bolts which hold the timing chain cover and water pump to the block. I did slather the bolt threads with rtv before installation, but now they loosen up on their own. 1/4 turn every few weeks keeps this area dry. No coolant in the oil. 2.5 year old Coolant is still florescent green/yellow and transparent.

Online, I see a new offering, an advertised brass core copper tanked, plastic free, drop in replacement radiator for $120 free shipping. ProRad?

Can get a plastic tanked aluminum cored Vista Pro for $150 delivered.

A Spectra Pro aluminum plastic for 152 delivered.

APDI for 130$ delivered

Shepard All aluminum for 104$ delivered
Shepard Aluminum core plastic tank for $93 delivered

CSF "all metal" for $235 delivered

Local stores have plastic tanked aluminum starting at $176+tax. Copper/brass at 235.

So Sick of leaking coolant......


Pretty easy to change a radiator in this vehicle. Wonder if I just need to view them as I do batteries......Rented.

 

[PandaBear]

stay away from cheap all metal radiator. I learned my lesson the hard way (CSF all metal). Plastic tank aluminum radiator is actually more durable than cheap (less than $300) all metal, should last 150k miles easily.

 

[DBMaster]

^+1. Had the same experience with a CSF copper/brass part. Regardless of biases there is nothing wrong with plastic tank radiators.

 

[wrcsixeight]

Plastic tanks are a difficult bias to work past.

Since my last 2 radiators seen to have started leaking right where the tubes meet the bottom tanks close to the edges, I wonder if some sort of frame flex is more to blame than salt encrustation being concentrated in those areas.

Sometimes I think about just draining and refilling with fresh coolant and adding a minimal amount of GM coolant tabs.

 

[zzyzzx]

I would also fix it yourself or take it to a place that fixes aluminum radiators. Having said that, I have a [censored] OE plastic side tank radiator that has been leaking at a seam for more than 10 years, I keep a small amount of stop leak in the system (1/4-1/5 a bottle) and put in a cup of coolant mix around once a month in the winter. In the summer it doesn't seem to leak enough to have to add coolant.

 

[wrcsixeight]

Another update.

I've still been waffling on getting a new radiator, and its rate of leaking has not really increased since February.

I did look for the Bar's leak tablets in local AP stores a while back, but they did not have them. Finally ordered them from Amazon, and was surprised at their size when they arrived.

I went to go put two in the radiator and go for a long Sunday drive, but found one barely fit in the radiator, so it only got one tablet. With nearly 4 gallons of coolant capacity, according to the instructions, I should have used 8 tablets.

Anyway for the first time in years, there is no coolant under my radiator when left parked overnight, with just one tablet added.

Was expecting to have to dissolve a few more tabs and add them before seeing results.

I am impressed.

 

[zzyzzx]

Originally Posted By: Bgallagher
What kind of car is it? Have you tried rockauto? Website is top notch and has a lot of quality products and names. I am sure you can find a quality radiator there. Just be sure to use the coupon code!


Rock Auto only sells radiator with plastic side tanks. At least with the all aluminum one, it can be fixed.

 

[another Todd]

Originally Posted By: Bgallagher
I would try the GM cooling system stop leak tabs (I believe to be the same as Bars Leak) and top off with some cheap antifreeze. They work pretty well at slow leaks and are usually used as a crutch so until you can save up the dough for a new radiator.


+1

 

[babyivan]

Originally Posted By: DBMaster
...Regardless of biases there is nothing wrong with plastic tank radiators.

Agreed.

Go with Spectra, their stuff is still made in Canada vs. other Chinese made garbage!

I too also debated the plastic/aluminum vs. brass/copper vs. all aluminum.

From reading online, I chose to steer clear of Silla. Quite a bit of people complained of lousy welds and leaks on nearly new rads.

The brass/copper rads are less efficient (takes more rows to cool vs aluminum) and degrade faster (also live by the water here on the EAST coast). They are also ridiculously heavy!

In the end, I went with a Spectra. Spectra is the only company that uses the superior plate type trans cooler over the less effective tube and fin design in their rads.

It's been over a year and many miles more and NO leaks or corrosion anywhere.

 

[KrisZ]

As far as I'm concerned OP can push this car across the good old US of A, there should be no problems.

 

[DBMaster]

Originally Posted By: babyivan
It's been over a year and many miles more and NO leaks or corrosion anywhere.


I ruined my car in an accident last year, but it had been going nine years on the replacement CSF plastic/aluminum radiator.

Just about none of them will last the life of the car. There is just too much thermal activity going on there. The unit I am talking about was as good, from an effectiveness and durability standpoint, as the Denso part that was OEM and it cost 1/3 the price. What more do you want?

 

[Merkava_4]

If done correctly, JB Weld can be very effective at repairing radiator leaks. I've done it.