militec-1, any opinons? and how about for use in gas engine oil?

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The pH of bleach is approximately 12.6

It feels slippery because it breaks down the fats and oils in the skin. Put it into equipment and itll lubricate like any other fluid, i.e. water, oil, etc. So long as it doesnt shear-thicken, it will reduce the friction somewhat with minimal drag to the surfaces. Whaqt happens once heat and speed builds up is a different question.

Even if the chemistry does backfire, military equipment uses high TBN lubricants, so there should be a bit of a buffer before acid formation begins, even in very localized areas.

I would have to say that a stabilized chlorinated compound is not the end of the world. As long as thermodynamically, it is such that it will most likely not break down or react in the anticipated temperature/pressure range, it should be OK. That doesnt mean that none of it will break down, but Id guess that there are multiple stages of bfferig, from the carrier of the stuff, to the oil itself, etc.

Plus, you have to consider the situation as soon as the water starts to evaporate out. Most likely the Cl would scavenge some other positivlely charged ions floating around in the oil. Maybe not though... the thermodynamics of ions in aqueous solutions is different from what we're dealing with... Just some guesses.

JMH
 
Just to again clarify this, the only military equipment that is to use this material is weapons systems, not internal combustion engines. As a matter of record, every procurement solicitation for this material states that the packages to be delivered must include a label stating that this product is not to be used in engine systems.
 
How do chlorinated paraffins work as oil additives? Chlorinated paraffins react with ferrous materials under high pressure to form ferric chloride complex films. It?s these films that form a smooth coating on ferrous materials with a property of reducing friction between sliding ferrous materials.

Some compounders claim that their chlorinated paraffin-based formula hardens metals by impregnating it. This has no theoretical and factual basis. Their own demonstrations would prove that there is no metal impregnation, as the films can be removed by abrasives, such as sandpaper.

Despite the capability to provide extreme pressure lubrication, oil companies and engine manufacturers don?t approve the use of chlorinated paraffin-based additives to engine crankcase oils. The reason for this is simple: Under high temperature, and normal typical conditions in an internal combustion engines, Chlorinated paraffins decompose and evolve hydrochloric acids (HCL). Hydrochloric acids are also very corrosive to metals.



Moreover, standard motor oil formulations contain ZDDP, a form of zinc compound as the EP, anti-wear and anti-oxidant additive. Zinc catalyzes chlorinated hydrocarbons into decomposition products at lower temperatures. Chlorinated materials attack the additive package.

Non of the actual manufacturers of chlorinated paraffins recommend the use of such materials as engine crankcase oil additives because of the acid corrosion problems.

The official recommended applications of chlorinated paraffins is for use as plasticizers or softeners to caulking compounds and rubber products, flame retardant additives, and as extreme pressure additives in metalworking fluids in open systems.

It is highly unlikely that car racers who recommend the use of aftermarket additives based on chlorinated paraffins know what the ingredients are that are used in such additives. And even if they know, it is doubtful that they know the chemical properties and reactions of chlorinated paraffins under high temperature conditions. Secondly, while they do get the benefit of increased power from less friction due to ferric chloride complex films on the metals, any evolution of hydrochloric acids are taken care of by immediate oil change and engine rebuild, which car racers perform after every race, as a matter of practice and standard procedure.


These are pictures I took of a transmission hydraulic system that had used a Chlorinated Additive. The owner had added a different brand of oil and it appears that that caused the additive to turn to hydraucloric acid that aet the epoxy paint off the inside of the housing.

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Changed the oil/filter on our Mazda turbo last night. PureONE filter and a 75/25% blend of Pennzoil Performax 100 5W50 and BP Visco 5000 5W40 with 120ml Auto-Rx maint dose and 25ml Militec 1. Feels much better today on a quick run. Have used Militec 1 for years now.
 
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