Nylon fuel line??

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I have a leaking steel fuel line on my 94 honda (thank you road salt) and the only bulk line seems to be nylon now. Can I just replace with nylon and not worry about it? I assume its resistant to ethanol? Do flex-fuel vehicles run this or do they have to run all stainless?

I don't think its supposed to be used in the engine bay, or anywhere it could be exposed to over 200 F.
 
I thought it could be used for fuel also, the only downside is the price:$94 (you can get an OEM pre formed steel line fore less), but on the other hand a 3/8x25 roll would be enough for two vehicles probably.

Thanks!
 
I use nylon. My olds silhouette had nylon in the engine bay to absorb movement between engine and frame rail and I spliced into it to go further back down that frame rail.

The stock set up was an obvious mess full of tired quick connects and metal-vinyl-metal-and-back that I spliced around. They were obviously there for the assembly plant when they lifted the engine/subframe in.

Naturally, routing is important, nylon doesn't hold its shape like steel and will need more frequent connections to the chassis. A ghetto way is to leave your old steel line attached and abandoned, and zip tie the nylon to it every eight inches or so.

They make compression fittings for connecting nylon to steel and barb fittings for nylon to nylon. You can cobble a nice set up together, though $15 for each little bit gets annoying. I use a $3 baby hacksaw from lowes for cutting metal line.
 
Yes its not cheap but if your like me i only want to do a job once and if I'm going to keep the car its worth a little extra.
Once you get the bends in i used about 16 feet of line on a GM W body.

Once you use this for fuel, tranny or brake line you will never use anything else, its that good and easy to work with. Porsche, Volvo, Aston, RR, etc all use this OEM.
Guaranteed you will find i use for any extra you have left over.
No issues whatsoever with ethanol or fuel additives.

http://www.agscompany.com/automotive/11
 
I would often be ordered to repair the fuel lines on 1994-1997 Accords hastily, because the fuel filter would get stuck in place. What I would have to do is run a steel line underneath the car, and put a bubble flare on the end of it where it angles up to the engine compartment. That is where I would clamp on a rubber fuel hose. I would then have to get a filter that fits a different Honda, where that model had a rubber hose connected to the inlet end of the filter.

It isn't how it really should be done, but it is what I was forced to do, and it worked.
 
my brain is working overtime. am being shown something NEW? if it is truly better then this old school cat will have to learn and change. thanks for the NEW info!!!!
 
Originally Posted By: morris
the factory used steel for a reason. end of story!!!!!


Originally Posted By: morris
my brain is working overtime. am being shown something NEW? if it is truly better then this old school cat will have to learn and change. thanks for the NEW info!!!!


I've seen plenty of cars use nylon entirely from tank to the fuel rail. Nothing wrong with it.

As a tip to the O/P, some parts stores will even make you up a stretch of line, complete with requisite fittings for a nominal fee, which beats having to buy to tools/kit to make it.
 
Ok, so both nylon and Nicopp are the way to go then? Having messed with steel brake line (replacing rusted leaking line) it was a real pita and will just rust out again, I am more than excited to use a more pliable line. I think the obvious edge goes to nylon for price, but the more durable and elegant solution would be Nicopp and it can be used for brakes as well.
 
i have had nylon fail, ONCE! never again. the factory doesnt ALLWAYS do things the best. nylon doesnt do bad, untill i gets moved to far. youll never see it on my truck. if you want it on your truck , dont call when it fails.
 
Unless you can get some ultra master pack I would not pre buy ni cop line. Fuel is usually 5/16" or 3/8 and brakes are 3/16 or 1/4, usually. Though my dodge return line was 3/16 and took bulk brake line easily. If you use rubber fuel line for the pressure side (or, probably, both) get SAE 30R9; 30R7 is not rated for fuel injection pressures.

NAPA has the doodads. Hopefully you have another car as the best course is to take your stuff apart and see if you break the little quick release clips etc.

nylonline3.jpg


This short length of steel in below pic cost $13! And in hindsight I could have cut the nipple (all I needed) off a used saturn fuel filter-- to fit a dodge!!!
nylonline2.jpg

nylonline1.jpg
 
^ What's wrong with the compression fitting? It says right on the package, "for connecting nylon to steel fuel line."

It ain't brakes. How would you do it?
 
i just dont like nylon or compression fittings. why do i not like nylon? cause i have seen it get a small split pushing oil out so finely it felt like a cooling mist, took me a month to find the oil leek. that will happen to me just ONCE!!! the compression fitting? it has such SMALL amount of contact area, and the tightening is so hard to get right. so there thats my idea. i dont say this just off the top of my head, its from things i have had happened to me.
 
I have a friend that supply's raw material to plastics manufacturers.
I remember her telling me there are a few different types of nylon, e.g. BMW used nylon 6.6 for their hub caps and VW used a cheaper ABS.
I'm sure if the wrong type is used for tubing there may be some issues.
I really have no idea i am just stating what i was told but the information seems accurate.

http://www.hudsonextrusions.com/nylon_tubing.htm
 
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