I have a 1978 F250 HD 4x4 with a 460. I've only had it for 2 yrs and put 6K miles in that time. I had the oil analyzed by blackstone and the lead was at 118ppm, iron at 82ppm, and sodium was at 91ppm. Blackstone says these are all really high so I just want some recommendations for oil that will help the engine last because I don't have the money to rebuild it now. It also blows a little oil out of the breather on the highway and leaks in the front and rear slightly. I use a ford filter and quaker state 10w30 now. I was thinking of switching to Rotella.
Oil recommendation
- Thread starter OHF250
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You might have a coolant leak. i dont think QS has sodium in it. I would run an inexpensive 10w30 and change it out often until you find the coin to get a rebuild. Sounds like it needs one sometime soon.
Is it possible you could post the whole UOA in the Used Oil Analysis - Gasoline section?
What kind of coolant does it have? Traditional Green or Ford/Zerex G05 (kind of yellow gold)?
If its traditional Green you should have high potassium as well if you have a coolant leak. If it G05 I believe its potassium free.
While QS didnt have Sodium in it last I saw it could be residual if the truck had Valvoline or some other high sodium oil in it within the last couple of changes.
How long (time) and far was the QS run?
What kind of coolant does it have? Traditional Green or Ford/Zerex G05 (kind of yellow gold)?
If its traditional Green you should have high potassium as well if you have a coolant leak. If it G05 I believe its potassium free.
While QS didnt have Sodium in it last I saw it could be residual if the truck had Valvoline or some other high sodium oil in it within the last couple of changes.
How long (time) and far was the QS run?
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Not sure how to post the analysis. I changed the antifreeze last year with prestone 150K all makes. Oil only had 1K miles on it. I know I should rebuild it sooner than later but a local machine shop wants $2500 and then I'd probably have to do the trans for another $1500. It starts and runs pretty good and I only drive it a few thousand miles a year. I would like to save up for a 351W and aod to get better mileage so if this engine could last another year or two that would be great.
I believe the 150K All Makes is essentially a Prestone version of Dexcool died green that uses Sodium 2EHA instead of Potassium 2EHA in which case it may be Potassium Free.
When posting a UOA I generally use the "code" function when making the post (to keep the columns straight) and type each individual element in. You could "steal" one already posted cut and paste place it in the code box and just change the amounts.
PS The Code entry is under the # tab on the full post or reply screen.
When posting a UOA I generally use the "code" function when making the post (to keep the columns straight) and type each individual element in. You could "steal" one already posted cut and paste place it in the code box and just change the amounts.
PS The Code entry is under the # tab on the full post or reply screen.
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Sorry, I realized it was Motorcraft 5w30. It now was Quakerstate 10w30. The prestone is yellow and now looks brown but tests ok with antifreeze tester.
Code:
MI/HR on oil 1,500
MI/HR on unit 59,047
Sample Date 9/13/2011
Make up oil added 1 QT
ALUMINUM 7
CHROMIUM 1
IRON 82
COPPER 19
LEAD 118
TIN 5
MOLYBDENUM 113
NICKEL 1
MANGANESE 1
SILVER 0
TITANIUM 1
POTASSIUM 3
BORON 131
SILICON 12
SODIUM 91
CALCIUM 2023
MAGNESIUM 20
PHOSPHORUS 703
ZINC 815
BARIUM 8
SUS Viscosity @ 210°F 59.0
cSt Viscosity @ 100°C 9.93
Flashpoint in °F 410
Fuel % 0.5
Antifreeze % ?
Water % 0.0
Insolubles % 0.3
Code:
MI/HR on oil 1,500
MI/HR on unit 59,047
Sample Date 9/13/2011
Make up oil added 1 QT
ALUMINUM 7
CHROMIUM 1
IRON 82
COPPER 19
LEAD 118
TIN 5
MOLYBDENUM 113
NICKEL 1
MANGANESE 1
SILVER 0
TITANIUM 1
POTASSIUM 3
BORON 131
SILICON 12
SODIUM 91
CALCIUM 2023
MAGNESIUM 20
PHOSPHORUS 703
ZINC 815
BARIUM 8
SUS Viscosity @ 210°F 59.0
cSt Viscosity @ 100°C 9.93
Flashpoint in °F 410
Fuel % 0.5
Antifreeze % ?
Water % 0.0
Insolubles % 0.3
No additives in that sample but in the 10w30 quakerstate I am running now, I added AutoRX and some hyper-lube zinc additive. This oil has about 3K miles on it so I will get it sampled too. The antifreeze in the radiator doesn't appear to have gone down and I didn't add any. I changed it two years ago so I'm going to change it again this year.
Run the cheapest 10W-30 oil and filter you can. Change it once a year or 3k miles whichever is first. When the engine finally lets go, find an old engine to swap into it. I'm assuming this isn't a show truck by any means. Unless you have the money, which you currently don't; or are keeping the pickup for nostalgic reasons, I see no logical reason to pay that kind of money to rebuild an engine on that old of a pickup, much less any pickup for that matter. Just go buy another old pickup for little to nothing.
I use Motorcraft 10/30w Semi-Synthetic I have just under 190,000 miles on my truck. I have a 1995 F-250 460cid motor. I have used the Motorcraft Oil in it only. When I bought it in 1995 I used what ever the Ford Dealer put in it. I have taken it to the same dealer since I bought it. I believe that in 1998 they started putting the Semi-Synthetic in it. (when they started putting the v-10 motors in the F series puck ups. I also have a 2005 E-450 V-10 Super Duty Cut away Van. I only use 5/30w semi-synthetic in it.
In my wife's van a 1992 Dodge B-150 318-cid. we only use Semi-synthetic oil, 10/30w Motorcraft.
In my wife's van a 1992 Dodge B-150 318-cid. we only use Semi-synthetic oil, 10/30w Motorcraft.
Originally Posted By: OHF250
No additives in that sample but in the 10w30 quakerstate I am running now, I added AutoRX and some hyper-lube zinc additive. This oil has about 3K miles on it so I will get it sampled too. The antifreeze in the radiator doesn't appear to have gone down and I didn't add any. I changed it two years ago so I'm going to change it again this year.
With all the additives it will be an interesting "brew" to sample but I doubt it will tell you much that's useful and likely leave you more alarmed than you are now. The Auto RX will be stripping out the grunge it will end up in the oil and probably leave us all agog at the numbers. I would advise waiting to sample.
Besides the UOA, are there indications of the engine needing overhaul? Oil consumption? Noises? Low oil pressure? Low compression? My point is that one UOA isn't necessarily a death sentence or a reason to spend lots of money. I would counsel running this load of oil through, add a new fill and maybe sample at the end of that interval. It's an old engine and who knows it's past history. The way you are using it, it may last a long time yet... especially if it has no other adverse symptoms.
If it were me, I would do an evaluation of the engine. Run a compression test. Maybe a cylinder leakdown test. Hook an eternal oil pressure gauge up and test hot oil pressure. These would give you an indication of engine condition that could accompany another UOA (taken when the grunge and extra chemicals is cleared out).
No additives in that sample but in the 10w30 quakerstate I am running now, I added AutoRX and some hyper-lube zinc additive. This oil has about 3K miles on it so I will get it sampled too. The antifreeze in the radiator doesn't appear to have gone down and I didn't add any. I changed it two years ago so I'm going to change it again this year.
With all the additives it will be an interesting "brew" to sample but I doubt it will tell you much that's useful and likely leave you more alarmed than you are now. The Auto RX will be stripping out the grunge it will end up in the oil and probably leave us all agog at the numbers. I would advise waiting to sample.
Besides the UOA, are there indications of the engine needing overhaul? Oil consumption? Noises? Low oil pressure? Low compression? My point is that one UOA isn't necessarily a death sentence or a reason to spend lots of money. I would counsel running this load of oil through, add a new fill and maybe sample at the end of that interval. It's an old engine and who knows it's past history. The way you are using it, it may last a long time yet... especially if it has no other adverse symptoms.
If it were me, I would do an evaluation of the engine. Run a compression test. Maybe a cylinder leakdown test. Hook an eternal oil pressure gauge up and test hot oil pressure. These would give you an indication of engine condition that could accompany another UOA (taken when the grunge and extra chemicals is cleared out).
dnewton3
Staff member
I concur with Jim.
Don't panic yet. Signs indicate possible bearing wear, but it's also very possible this engine could last a while (at least to get you to your goal of a few years down the road).
IIRC - don't the Lima engines lube the cam first and then the mains? Generally the Lima engines are pretty reliable, but nothing lasts indefinitely (perspective being the key to this concept!). Do the easy checks first; compression, leakdown, etc. Get an idea of the mechanical condition in some regard. If the oil pressure is decent, then I'd stick with the OEM reccomendation of 10w-30. If the pressure is weak, I'd try a 10w-40 and see if that helps.
I like the idea of ARX. Follow the protocol. Then get another UOA; don't bother with TBN as you're not putting enough mileage on it anyway.
I suspect this engine has a bearing going out, but it also will likely last you at least to your two year goal if you're not putting on a bunch of miles.
I would suggest using any decent PCMO and inexpensive filter combo you can come up with. The reality is that NO oil is going to stop or significantly retard bearing failure, once it starts down that destructive path. You might as well save money by getting some great deal on decent oil (I would even suggest SuperTech if you cannot find anything else on sale).
My point being that using an HDEO probably isn't going to save this engine over the options in the PCMO catagory. There is no magic bullet here. Use a decent major oil that holds pressure, costs the least, and hope for the best.
Don't panic yet. Signs indicate possible bearing wear, but it's also very possible this engine could last a while (at least to get you to your goal of a few years down the road).
IIRC - don't the Lima engines lube the cam first and then the mains? Generally the Lima engines are pretty reliable, but nothing lasts indefinitely (perspective being the key to this concept!). Do the easy checks first; compression, leakdown, etc. Get an idea of the mechanical condition in some regard. If the oil pressure is decent, then I'd stick with the OEM reccomendation of 10w-30. If the pressure is weak, I'd try a 10w-40 and see if that helps.
I like the idea of ARX. Follow the protocol. Then get another UOA; don't bother with TBN as you're not putting enough mileage on it anyway.
I suspect this engine has a bearing going out, but it also will likely last you at least to your two year goal if you're not putting on a bunch of miles.
I would suggest using any decent PCMO and inexpensive filter combo you can come up with. The reality is that NO oil is going to stop or significantly retard bearing failure, once it starts down that destructive path. You might as well save money by getting some great deal on decent oil (I would even suggest SuperTech if you cannot find anything else on sale).
My point being that using an HDEO probably isn't going to save this engine over the options in the PCMO catagory. There is no magic bullet here. Use a decent major oil that holds pressure, costs the least, and hope for the best.
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Is the PCV present and functional? You might be surprised at how many leaks positive crankcase pressure can create. A loose oil pan will also make a mess...
As for the sodium & lead in the UOA, I suspect a coolant leak. Intake gaskets and head gaskets are the usual suspects...intake being the most common IIRC.
I wouldn't give up on the 460 yet, an afternoon in the shop might give it a new lease on life.
As for the sodium & lead in the UOA, I suspect a coolant leak. Intake gaskets and head gaskets are the usual suspects...intake being the most common IIRC.
I wouldn't give up on the 460 yet, an afternoon in the shop might give it a new lease on life.
I tried taking it to a couple of shops but no one wants to touch it because of how old it is. It has rust but, for the most part, is in good shape for it's age. It was semi-restored in the 90's but they didn't coat the underside. I've seen the rotella t5 for $16 a gallon and $3 for a FL1A filter so I'll stick with that and see what happens on the next UOA. The PCV is on the passenger valve cover and seems fine it does blow a little oil out the breather on the driver side. I've only put about 6K on it since I flushed the radiator and haven't had to add any coolant. I'm going to flush it again this year
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