funny nobody (responders) realise that OP is living in Australia, and many of the so-called products avail in continental North America may not be readily available down-under.
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Engine oil additives
- Thread starter toyota62
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beaverland is where?
up in Canada, a nickname for a location where Hudson Bay started trading posts with local natives for beaver pelts.
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About the only stuff I believe in anymore are Lubegard products, MMO, fuel system cleaners for the fuel, and Auto-RX may actually have some usefulness in stopping seal leaks. And there are some flushes that might be good like Lubegard Engine Flush and a few others.
Bottom line is if you use good quality motor oil and other quality products for the transmission, etc., you should be able to go a long ways with no supplements of any kind except maybe fuel system cleaners.
Bottom line is if you use good quality motor oil and other quality products for the transmission, etc., you should be able to go a long ways with no supplements of any kind except maybe fuel system cleaners.
Originally Posted By: toyota62
Hi Guys.
If any one here prefer to use an engine oil additive, which one you guys choose from the followings?
1)Liqui Moly Mos2
2)Liqui moly Motor Protect.
3)Nulon E20 or E30 engine treatments.
4)Wynns Products.
5)STP products.
5)Valvoline products.
I would use the MOS2, but it is too expensive now. It is almost double what it use to cost.
Hi Guys.
If any one here prefer to use an engine oil additive, which one you guys choose from the followings?
1)Liqui Moly Mos2
2)Liqui moly Motor Protect.
3)Nulon E20 or E30 engine treatments.
4)Wynns Products.
5)STP products.
5)Valvoline products.
I would use the MOS2, but it is too expensive now. It is almost double what it use to cost.
Yes, there is another Moly product to consider.
TufOil....it's loaded with Moly.
The Truck size container is the most economical for multiple adds to the sump at your OCI....unless you have a huge sump.....then the Gallon Size might fit the situation.
TufOil....it's loaded with Moly.
The Truck size container is the most economical for multiple adds to the sump at your OCI....unless you have a huge sump.....then the Gallon Size might fit the situation.
You could always order super fine (1.5 micron) MoS2 powder and mix it in your oil. Rosemill sells it by the pound, and Lyman sells it in a 6-ounce bottle.
Originally Posted By: yesthatsteve
You could always order super fine (1.5 micron) MoS2 powder and mix it in your oil. Rosemill sells it by the pound, and Lyman sells it in a 6-ounce bottle.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2577237#Post2577237
You could always order super fine (1.5 micron) MoS2 powder and mix it in your oil. Rosemill sells it by the pound, and Lyman sells it in a 6-ounce bottle.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2577237#Post2577237
At the end of the day, it really depends on what the purpose of the additive is and what you're using it for. I've had good luck using Liqui-Moly additives, and they all worked well for their purpose. Examples:
Motor Oil Saver
When I bought my Grand Marquis, the valve seals were not exactly doing their job. It's a huge job to replace valve seals in this application, and I decided to save it to when I upgrade my camshafts. The valve cover gaskets were also leaking.
When I changed the oil, I added a 300 ml can and within 900 km, there were no more puffs of blue smoke when accelerating from a standstill. It also slowed down the valve cover gasket leak, which was a definite improvement compared to what it used to be. I made a habit of adding a can at every oil change, and over time, it even addressed out an issue I wasn't aware of - weeping o-rings on the oil cooler hose. Using it gradually, now the valve covers barely weep.
It's composition is nothing magical (2-butoxyethanol and dioctyl sebacate), and it does not claim to do anything else. It's done its job perfectly and I would highly suggest it to anyone with oil leak issue. That said, its sealing effect sealing effect depends entirely on the gasket material.
Cera Tec
I've been using MoS2 for quite a while, until I was recommended to switch to Cera Tec by the R&D Manager. Instead of using it every 30,000 km as recommended for severe service (they recommend 50,000 km for regular), I was suggested to use it at every oil change for extreme duty. I haven't really noticed much of a difference compared to MoS2, but my engine used to consume about 250 ml of oil between oil changes (10,000 km). I'm now 9,400 km into my interval, and there hasn't been a noticible change in the oil level.
ATF Additive
I've had a power steering leak, and didn't really have the time to pull the pump off and rebuild it. Instead, I added some of this stuff, and the leak disappeared a week later. The fluid also changed color, so I decided I would replace it. I added some of this stuff afterwards as preventive maintenance, there was no color change and I reckon the cleaning additives were doing their job the first time round.
Pro Line Engine Flush
Many claim using flushing products are pointless, because all the cleaning agents are already in the oil. An engine oil does many jobs, and it won't really be realistic to expect 100% for every function. Using PLEF at every oil change interval, the engine started to idle and rev smoother, there's been a drop in oil consumption (1 liter every 8,000 km to 250 ml every 10,000 km) and compression is still 200+ PSI on all cylinders.
Provided you use a quality additive for exactly what it is intended for, I do not see a problem using them. But your expectations have also got to be realistic.
Motor Oil Saver
When I bought my Grand Marquis, the valve seals were not exactly doing their job. It's a huge job to replace valve seals in this application, and I decided to save it to when I upgrade my camshafts. The valve cover gaskets were also leaking.
When I changed the oil, I added a 300 ml can and within 900 km, there were no more puffs of blue smoke when accelerating from a standstill. It also slowed down the valve cover gasket leak, which was a definite improvement compared to what it used to be. I made a habit of adding a can at every oil change, and over time, it even addressed out an issue I wasn't aware of - weeping o-rings on the oil cooler hose. Using it gradually, now the valve covers barely weep.
It's composition is nothing magical (2-butoxyethanol and dioctyl sebacate), and it does not claim to do anything else. It's done its job perfectly and I would highly suggest it to anyone with oil leak issue. That said, its sealing effect sealing effect depends entirely on the gasket material.
Cera Tec
I've been using MoS2 for quite a while, until I was recommended to switch to Cera Tec by the R&D Manager. Instead of using it every 30,000 km as recommended for severe service (they recommend 50,000 km for regular), I was suggested to use it at every oil change for extreme duty. I haven't really noticed much of a difference compared to MoS2, but my engine used to consume about 250 ml of oil between oil changes (10,000 km). I'm now 9,400 km into my interval, and there hasn't been a noticible change in the oil level.
ATF Additive
I've had a power steering leak, and didn't really have the time to pull the pump off and rebuild it. Instead, I added some of this stuff, and the leak disappeared a week later. The fluid also changed color, so I decided I would replace it. I added some of this stuff afterwards as preventive maintenance, there was no color change and I reckon the cleaning additives were doing their job the first time round.
Pro Line Engine Flush
Many claim using flushing products are pointless, because all the cleaning agents are already in the oil. An engine oil does many jobs, and it won't really be realistic to expect 100% for every function. Using PLEF at every oil change interval, the engine started to idle and rev smoother, there's been a drop in oil consumption (1 liter every 8,000 km to 250 ml every 10,000 km) and compression is still 200+ PSI on all cylinders.
Provided you use a quality additive for exactly what it is intended for, I do not see a problem using them. But your expectations have also got to be realistic.
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Kreen was clearly the best. Can drive around with it, comes out real nasty, and the subsequent oil change is dirty too which means its still cleaning sfter its gone
Could be that it makes an impressive looking mess, and continues to do so next OCI...sort of like a one shot coolant leak
Kreen was clearly the best. Can drive around with it, comes out real nasty, and the subsequent oil change is dirty too which means its still cleaning sfter its gone
Could be that it makes an impressive looking mess, and continues to do so next OCI...sort of like a one shot coolant leak
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Kreen was clearly the best. Can drive around with it, comes out real nasty, and the subsequent oil change is dirty too which means its still cleaning sfter its gone
Could be that it makes an impressive looking mess, and continues to do so next OCI...sort of like a one shot coolant leak
Don't know what you mean...um..I guess...
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Kreen was clearly the best. Can drive around with it, comes out real nasty, and the subsequent oil change is dirty too which means its still cleaning sfter its gone
Could be that it makes an impressive looking mess, and continues to do so next OCI...sort of like a one shot coolant leak
Don't know what you mean...um..I guess...
I think Shannow asked a good question. Maybe someone detached will volunteer to treat a clean, young engine with Kreen, and report back on what happens to the oil.
I'm pretty sure that if I added brake fluid to my oil, it would come out in great globs, and do same to a lesser extent next time, indicating that it was "still doing what it did".
However it could be doing either of two things:
* cleaning heaps of "junk" out of the engine; or
* creating heaps of junk inside the engine.
Given that a coolant leak creates lots of junk, inside the engine, I'd not discount that possibility.
However it could be doing either of two things:
* cleaning heaps of "junk" out of the engine; or
* creating heaps of junk inside the engine.
Given that a coolant leak creates lots of junk, inside the engine, I'd not discount that possibility.
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