Hyundai dealer says I need a $1700 ABS pump

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stephen9666

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I made this post for a Hyundai forum, but I thought someone here might have some insight into this problem. I'm determined not to spend $1700 on this car.

Car in question:
2007 Sonata GLS with a manual and 2.4. Total mileage is 81k. Car is no longer under warranty.

Problem:
The “ESC Off” light has intermittently coming on since I bought the car last year. Sometimes, the ABS, ESC and brake lights all illuminate. For the last week or so, all three lights have been on all the time.

Shop #1 Recommendation:
I took the Sonata to a local independent shop I’ve used before. They pulled two codes, but couldn’t determine the problem. The tech thought perhaps the car needed a reflash and recommended I go to the dealer.

They pulled the following codes:
C1102 - Battery voltage too low
C1702 - Variant coding error.


Dealer Recommendation:
The local Hyundai dealer looked at the car today. They pulled the following codes:
C1702 - Variant coding error
C1611 - Lost communication between ECU and the HECU.

They said I needed a new HECU and it would be $1689 + tax installed. That’s $1426 for the part and the rest installation. This is the part in question. Link to Hyundai parts website.

I talked to the tech and he said if I replaced the unit myself I’d still have to bring it in to have the brake system reprogrammed at the dealer. He said the ECU wouldn’t recognize the new HECU unit without a reprogramming. It appears replacing the unit itself is not a huge job, but I’d like to determine that’s really the problem before tearing into it. HMA service has some diagnostic procedures for each code that I may look into.

Questions:
-Has anyone dealt with a problem like this? Searching shows basically nothing about HECU units failing in NF Sonatas.

-Any recommendations on my next step? My current plan is to continue researching this. I'm determined not to spend $1700 on this car.

I can get a used HECU unit ranging in price from $90 to $350. This car is new enough that there aren’t any aftermarket or remanufactured options.
 
I'd consider trading it in at a Hyundai dealer for another car.

I'd hate to go down a rathole and be at the mercy of mechanics and dealers.
 
Originally Posted By: RedCorvette
I'd consider trading it in at a Hyundai dealer for another car.

I'd hate to go down a rathole and be at the mercy of mechanics and dealers.


I'd trade it in, but not on another hyundai. The dealer will have you under their boot if you do that.
 
Problem:
The “ESC Off” light has intermittently coming on since I bought the car last year. Sometimes, the ABS, ESC and brake lights all illuminate. For the last week or so, all three lights have been on all the time.


-----------------------------------------------------

Just wondering, are there symptoms other than dashboard lights? Speaking for myself only, if there are only lights and reminders, I would keep driving and not worry about it.
 
Originally Posted By: mareakin
Quote:
Problem:
The “ESC Off” light has intermittently coming on since I bought the car last year. Sometimes, the ABS, ESC and brake lights all illuminate. For the last week or so, all three lights have been on all the time.



Just wondering, are there symptoms other than dashboard lights? Speaking for myself only, if there are only lights and reminders, I would keep driving and not worry about it.


When the lights are on the ESC and ABS are disabled. The car still drives fine, but the ABS and ESC won't work.
 
@steven:

As long as the brakes perform perfectly fine without the ABS why not just keep driving it? You don't NEED ABS or ESC.


The financial loss you take from trading in an otherwise perfectly fine car is not worth it.
 
I won't be trading the car in. If I did that, I'd be losing thousands of dollars in an attempt to avoid a $1700 repair.

But I am really PO'd at this car. It's had several problems in the last year I've owned it. I also don't think any car with only 81k miles should have significant problems, especially not one that costs $1700.

Right now I'm leaning towards looking into it deeper to make sure it really is the HECU unit, then buying a junkyard replacement and doing it myself.
 
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I had a similar problem with ABS on a Chevy Tahoe with approximately 57 thousand miles on it.

Repair at the dealer cost me around $900.00.

Was told it was a common problem.

Friend had the same problem with his Chevy Pickup Truck.
 
The trouble with late model,technologically advanced cars....??? Cost of repair.All those electronics dont come cheap.Think of all the computers and printed circuits there are in the average 1997-up car.My recomendation? Buy an older car.Like 1980s at the newest.No OBDII,no BCM,no airbag modules,no ABS modules....no variable valve timing,no direct injection,no plastic intake manifolds,no Dex Cool....
 
Originally Posted By: Brenden
Pull the abs fuses, take the bulbs out of the cluster and keep on rolling.


However, if you sell it that way, you're committing fraud - you have knowingly hid that you disabled installed systems, that any reasonable person would expect operate properly...it's the hiding of it that would be fraud...and the liability of disabling safety systems could come back and haunt you.

Your dealer is probably right, he's seen lots of these, but I am with you completely, that's a steep price. These guys: http://xemodex.com/ rebuild modules for Euro cars for the same reasons...I would do some Google searching for a similar service, or go the junkyard route - then have the dealer re-program...
 
Originally Posted By: Brenden
Pull the abs fuses, take the bulbs out of the cluster and keep on rolling.


This.

If it were me I wouldn't even bother "fixing" the ABS module unless I got the module for 25 bucks and the total repair was only 50.
wink.gif
 
Originally Posted By: NHGUY
The trouble with late model,technologically advanced cars....??? Cost of repair.All those electronics dont come cheap.Think of all the computers and printed circuits there are in the average 1997-up car.My recomendation? Buy an older car.Like 1980s at the newest.No OBDII,no BCM,no airbag modules,no ABS modules....no variable valve timing,no direct injection,no plastic intake manifolds,no Dex Cool....


Totally agreed.

Folks are so gullible today. They only think of the here and now and not of the next year or next five when it comes to repairs.

I only wish I could buy something like a NEW old
1984 VW Rabbit GTI or similar.

The reasons? Very fun to drive, practical, cheap to run, cheap to maintain, cheap to repair, hardly any electronics, very simple car.
 
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Originally Posted By: stephen9666
The “ESC Off” light has intermittently coming on since I bought the car last year. Sometimes, the ABS, ESC and brake lights all illuminate. For the last week or so, all three lights have been on all the time.
-Any recommendations on my next step?

Check if your brake center/rear tail lights work properly, and if your car has had recall 09V122000 for stop lamp switch done.

The stop lamp switch may cause the brake lights to not work proper, and may also cause improper functioning of ABS/ESC.

http://www.faqs.org/car/hyundai-sonata-2007/service-brakes/
 
Originally Posted By: carwreck
Originally Posted By: stephen9666
The “ESC Off” light has intermittently coming on since I bought the car last year. Sometimes, the ABS, ESC and brake lights all illuminate. For the last week or so, all three lights have been on all the time.
-Any recommendations on my next step?

Check if your brake center/rear tail lights work properly, and if your car has had recall 09V122000 for stop lamp switch done.

The stop lamp switch may cause the brake lights to not work proper, and may also cause improper functioning of ABS/ESC.

http://www.faqs.org/car/hyundai-sonata-2007/service-brakes/


Thanks for posting. I already knew about these issues. The brake light switch has been replaced, twice in fact. All the taillights are working. A burned out bulb caused this once before, so I made sure to check them.
 
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since the problem existed for along time (intermittantly) before now - I'd suspect a loose connection - which may not need the module to be replaced. check all connectors along the path. or, as others have suggested, drive without ABS and SC. or, replace the module yourself - but if the root cause is really a loose connection (I suspect) you may or may not fix the problem this way.
 
Originally Posted By: tomcat27
since the problem existed for along time (intermittantly) before now - I'd suspect a loose connection - which may not need the module to be replaced.


I was suspecting that could be the case, which is why I won't be replacing the ABS unit until I do a little more digging.

For those who don't know, Hyundai makes all their manuals and tech info available to anyone for free.
https://www.hyundaitechinfo.com/

I looked up some tech documents associated with each error code. It gives a list of things to check to verify the problem. I'll be looking into this a little deeper over the next week or so.
 
I know you have replaced the switch twice. I had the same issue with my Entourage and had an upgraded part installed. Cured the issue. I would try another Hyundai dealer if possible.
 
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