Switched to Synthetic, now leaking oil

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I have an 05 honda crv with 73,500 miles on it.

I was using conventional.

Then I switched to 0w20 synthetic by Valvoline.

Now I'm leaking.
 
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Keep the 0W-20 oil in there for now, but when you need top-off oil, I'd use Maxlife 5W-30.

When you are due for an OC, use Maxlife 5W-20, as suggested above.
 
Uh-"O"........ The Ole going from Conventional To Synthetic and now having a leak scenario. The last time that happened to me (years ago) I simply switched back to what I was using and it stopped.
 
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Would I have had this problem if I went with full synthetic 5w20? (as opposed to 0w20 like I did)
 
I put synthetic in my 81 MB 240D about two years ago. It has used zero oil, but when I did the change last weekend, the oil pan gasket was weeping.

This was the first car I've had that has seeped synthetic oil. The rest of the block and engine is dry as a bone.

It happens, granted my car is much, much older.

Try the baby powder trick and see the source. Oil pan or valve cover, no big deal.
 
Originally Posted By: Rob_Roy
I hate to be Captain Obvious, but check the drain plug and filter for leaks.



just checked those seem to be fine.
 
Originally Posted By: alwayson
I have an 05 honda crv with 73,500 miles on it.

I was using conventional.

Then I switched to 0w20 synthetic by Valvoline.

Now I'm leaking.


What oil were you using before it started leaking?
 
Originally Posted By: dave1251
Use some redline for a couple of OCI's that will seal up your engine for a couple of years.


Huh? Redline has seal swellers like high mileage oil?
 
Originally Posted By: alwayson
I have an 05 honda crv with 73,500 miles on it.

I was using conventional.

Then I switched to 0w20 synthetic by Valvoline.

Now I'm leaking.


same here. Would appear car has to be perfect to run it. Any flaw gets exposed
 
This is the one BIG caveat when switching to a synthetic after using dino for years on an older car.

My advice is if you don't want to risk an oil leak on an older vehicle that has ALWAYS been using dino DO NOT SWITCH TO SYNTHETIC!!!
 
Originally Posted By: 91344George
This is the one BIG caveat when switching to a synthetic after using dino for years on an older car.

My advice is if you don't want to risk an oil leak on an older vehicle that has ALWAYS been using dino DO NOT SWITCH TO SYNTHETIC!!!



M1 HM works good on leakers. Actually stopped a VC leak I had on dino.
 
There is no reason that a group III synthetic is going to be more likely to leak than a group II base oil, and any suggestion that's the case is just based on ignorance. The base oils are very similar, the GIII is just more refined-how on earth is that going to cause a leak?

It could be a reaction with one of the additives, or it just could be coincidence....or it could be some spilled oil remaining from the filter swap, which is a bit of a pain on that car. I'd try to figure out the source of the leak before trying any of the various fixes suggested.
 
Originally Posted By: JOD
There is no reason that a group III synthetic is going to be more likely to leak than a group II base oil, and any suggestion that's the case is just based on ignorance. The base oils are very similar, the GIII is just more refined-how on earth is that going to cause a leak?

It could be a reaction with one of the additives, or it just could be coincidence....or it could be some spilled oil remaining from the filter swap, which is a bit of a pain on that car. I'd try to figure out the source of the leak before trying any of the various fixes suggested.


Here's more real world experiences (or ignorance and coincidences as you call it). 02 Camry I4 199k. Oil disappears much more rapidly using 0w20. Using a quart every 3k now, before w/5w30 it was 1/2 qt every 5k. Valve cover and oil pan both started leaking, never did before. My options are replace valve seals, engine teardown for rings, replace all gaskets to run 0w20, or retreat to thick goopy 5w30 and continue on. Maybe I'm ignorant, but I'd rather go for that thick goopy M1 5w30.
 
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