Pull Engine Torque Converter Still Attached OK?

[eagle23]

I've got a '91 Ford Ranger 3.0 V6, 83k original miles. It's leaking from just about every gasket/seal: oil pan, rear main, timing cover, etc. I have to pull the engine to do the rear main, plus gain access to the pan/front cover. And no, I can't do it all with the engine in the truck; too little clearance.

So: I'm having trouble with the last nut (4th of 4) connecting the torque converter to the flexplate. The other 3 are off. I'm thinking of just pulling the engine with the torque converter still attached, then separating them when I'm not lying on my back (a heated garage helps but doesn't solve this problem).

My question then is, can this be done? I don't know of any reason why not but it seems better to ask first.

I'm aware that on reinstall the converter goes back in the transmission first and get's seated before rebolting to the flexplate.

Any thoughts or alternate ideas?

Thanks much!

 

[Ojustracing]

Yeah it can be done. But you risk damaging the convertor/front pump if the engine doesn't come strait out. I had to do this on a locked up(Water) 06 explorer. Needless to say the car had a tranny pump a few months after the work.

 

[bradepb]

If you have to do it that way then you can. However you risk damaging the trans front pump.
If you do it try to pull the engine straight out with a minimum of jerking around and you will have to replace the front pump seal on the trans also.

 

[mechtech2]

Try a different socket. Like a flank drive 6 point.
Sears/Craftsman has great special sockets for troubled bolt/nut heads.

 

[eagle23]

Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Try a different socket. Like a flank drive 6 point.
Sears/Craftsman has great special sockets for troubled bolt/nut heads.


I've never heard of a flank drive until now. I was reading some Google sources on it and it looks well liked.

Thank you! I'll order one or scare one up locally from Snap-on or Matco etc.

It's a 14mm I need, and it looks like the flex-head socket might work, or a deep socket but definitely 6 point. It's a PITA to get to, and the nut is beginning to get rounded.

In doing further reading, if I have to pull the converter with the engine, once I reinstall it, may just get it towed to a good local tranny shop (there's one not but 15 minutes from here) and have him do a complete overhaul. The servos etc are 21 yr old now, and have to be hard as rocks, and I'd like some mechanical upgrades to strengthen things while it's all apart. I'd prefer not to do that just now, but...

Fortunately it isn't my daily driver, but with the very low miles bought from original family (someone I work with), and no rust or dents I'd like to keep it many more years.

 

[eagle23]

Originally Posted By: Ojustracing
Yeah it can be done. But you risk damaging the convertor/front pump if the engine doesn't come strait out. I had to do this on a locked up(Water) 06 explorer. Needless to say the car had a tranny pump a few months after the work.


I appreciate the heads-up on this. If I have to pull the converter with the engine, I may just have the tranny rebuilt once the engine is back in. I don't want it to grenade at some really lousy time or place

Prevention will prevail.

 

[eagle23]

Originally Posted By: bradepb
If you have to do it that way then you can. However you risk damaging the trans front pump.
If you do it try to pull the engine straight out with a minimum of jerking around and you will have to replace the front pump seal on the trans also.


As mentioned above, thanks for the warning. If I have to go the pull-with-the-engine route...and I hope I don't...once I got the engine reinstalled and running, I'd get it towed to a local trans shop for overhaul. The truck's in too good a shape.

Fortunately I have time to work on it, but would like to be done sooner than later. Though a project without deadline I still want it done.

 

[The_Eric]

What's so hard about getting to this particular one? On most Fords, you are able to get the nuts/bolts pretty easily by removing the starter. An impact and a swivel always makes super short work of them.

 

[eagle23]

Originally Posted By: The_Eric
What's so hard about getting to this particular one? On most Fords, you are able to get the nuts/bolts pretty easily by removing the starter. An impact and a swivel always makes super short work of them.


That's what I expected once I took off the starter, but the starter hole doesn't allow straight access to the nut. I've been using the "inspection" plate (or whatever it's called) on the passenger side to access the nuts. Three out of four were fine.

When I tried a regular depth socket, the stud was too long for the socket to get a good purchase on the nut.

This afternoon I ordered from Snap-on.com two 14mm flank sockets, one deep and one half-deep, both 6-point. Hopefully they'll be here by the end of the week.

 

[Trav]

If all else fails these from Irwin can be had at AA, they come in reg and deep.
I tried them as a last resort on old rotten nuts that were eaten and round, no socket would work, flank drive or similar just rounded them more.

I got it nice and square on the nuts and had to use a breaker bar but it took all 16 off. Not even a scratch on them inside, i'm sold on these.

http://www.irwin.com/tools/browse/screw-bolt-extractors/bolt-extractors

 

[MarkM66]

It's early, so maybe I'm missing it. Can't you just rotate the engine to get those bolts in the same position as the others that were removed?

 

[eagle23]

Originally Posted By: MarkM66
It's early, so maybe I'm missing it. Can't you just rotate the engine to get those bolts in the same position as the others that were removed?


I can do that and have. It's just this one (1!) remaining of the four that is the problem. The others loosened with a 3/8 drive breaker without a lot of effort.

 

[eagle23]

Originally Posted By: Trav
If all else fails these from Irwin can be had at AA, they come in reg and deep.
I tried them as a last resort on old rotten nuts that were eaten and round, no socket would work, flank drive or similar just rounded them more.

I got it nice and square on the nuts and had to use a breaker bar but it took all 16 off. Not even a scratch on them inside, i'm sold on these.

http://www.irwin.com/tools/browse/screw-bolt-extractors/bolt-extractors


Trav, I just ordered a set from AAP, and got the discount. Will pick up this afternoon. The comments on line from various sources echoed what you said...amazing design. Looks like one of those things you don't usually need until you really do.

Thanks!