Any secrets for bleeding PS fluid on a Honda?

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I just changed my PS fluid on the 07 Civic. I refilled the reservoir to the MAX line, started the car, and turned the wheel side to side several times as the manual states. I noticed it was whining pretty bad so I got out and the reservoir was dry. I added more fluid and it got quieter, but still whines a little when idling and revving.

Should I do another change and make sure the reservoir doesn't run dry this time? Supposedly it's "self-bleeding", but I KNOW it wasn't this loud before the change. It was 5 days ago, so should I give it more time? There's either still air in there or the pump went bad that fast. I'm hoping it's the former...
 
There's still air, keep bleeding it. You might need to run the car at idle and just sit there and keep turning the wheel lock-to-lock. Have you checked the procedure in the Honda service manual?

If you own a Mityvac, there's a tool you can get that will extract the air bubbles from the system.
 
The MOST CRITICAL QUESTION IS....DID YOU USE GENUINE HONDA POWER STEERING FLUID?????

If not change it out IMMEDIATELY with the genuine fluid from Honda, using a non Honda specific fluid could damage your pump!!!!!!
 
Originally Posted By: 91344George
The MOST CRITICAL QUESTION IS....DID YOU USE GENUINE HONDA POWER STEERING FLUID?????

If not change it out IMMEDIATELY with the genuine fluid from Honda, using a non Honda specific fluid could damage your pump!!!!!!


Sorry, I should have noted, I DID use Honda fluid. I'm a freak with maintenance on my car, which is why I'm freaking out the pump is whining
frown.gif


I followed the service manual exactly, but it said nothing about the reservoir drying up during the "bleeding process". I had to figure that one out...
 
I just found a Toyota forum that says people have had to jack the car up several times and turn the wheel side to side to get all the air out. Looks like I'll be spending some time tomorrow doing this.
smile.gif
 
Originally Posted By: tpattgeek
I just found a Toyota forum that says people have had to jack the car up several times and turn the wheel side to side to get all the air out. Looks like I'll be spending some time tomorrow doing this.
smile.gif


Try it with the car off first.
 
Originally Posted By: The Critic
Originally Posted By: tpattgeek
I just found a Toyota forum that says people have had to jack the car up several times and turn the wheel side to side to get all the air out. Looks like I'll be spending some time tomorrow doing this.
smile.gif


Try it with the car off first.


Turn the wheel lock to lock with it off?
 
Originally Posted By: tpattgeek

Turn the wheel lock to lock with it off?

Engine OFF, but steering wheel unlocked, with tires off the ground.
 
It it whining 100% of the time or just when you turn near hard left or right, because thats normal. The only other thing I can think of is you ran it too long with a dry reservoir and DID damage the pump.

good luck...
 
Originally Posted By: SOHCman
It it whining 100% of the time or just when you turn near hard left or right, because thats normal. The only other thing I can think of is you ran it too long with a dry reservoir and DID damage the pump.

good luck...


100% of the time, but BARELY noticeable when idling. It only gets really noticeable when accelerating/revving.
 
The air should bleed from the system fairly quickly after a few lock-to-lock turns. I suggest rev-ing the engine to a fast idle (~1500 rpm) while you turn the wheel. Is there air bubbles or foam forming in the reservoir?
 
If bubbles continue to form in the reservoir, then there's air getting into the system. Make sure all the hoses are pushed in all the way and securely clamped. A failed o-ring in the inlet tube to the pump can also cause this or a loose fitting hose.
 
Considering I wasn't having this problem before I changed the fluid, the only hos I touched was the return host. I'll check its fittings. Thanks.
 
You need to make a home made air remover. A pic is worth 1000 words.
sam0699copy.jpg

This is just a rubber stopper from a hardware store, they come in lots of sizes up to about 3" with a piece of hard plastic line through the middle.
Connect the vac pump to it with the engine running and pump it until the pump whines then drop the vacuum a little, run it like this for 15 min under vacuum.

Leave the system under high vacuum for a few hours even overnight, check the vacuum often to make sure its still holding as air bubbles drop the pressure.
For caps with ears the round stopper doesn't work well, get a replacement cap from AZ and drill the top for a fitting.
Make sure the level is below the stopper tube as not to suck PS fluid into the vac pump.
It works like a charm even on noisy ford pumps.
 
Trav, excuse my ignorance, but I have no idea how this would hook into the PS system or how you would "drop the vacuum". Why would the pump whine if you're pumping air OUT of the system? What exactly does this do and could you possibly provide more detailed steps? Thanks!
 
You put this on the reservoir instead of the cap, the pump will whine if the vacuum is too high as fluid isn't flowing through the units valves properly.
The system under vacuum will draw trapped air out of the system even if its trapped down in the rack.

Put the stopper on instead of the cap, start the engine.
Bring about 15psi vacuum or until the pump begins to whine.
Note the reading, then release the vacuum.
Bring the vacuum back up to just before where the pump began to whine e.g whine came at 15psi so bring it to 14psi and leave it like that for 15min, engine running.

Turn the engine off and pump full vacuum then just leave it sit for a few hours under vacuum, you may need to pump it a few times over this time as the air comes out.
Remove the stopper and start the engine, the noise should be gone.
 
I agree, the safe way is just siphon and refill the reservoir several times, one time each day or each week, no chance for any air to get in the system.
 
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