magnetic heater, oil pan or block?

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Decided to put a magnetic heater on my 2006 Chevrolet Coloado (I4). I do 2.5 miles one way, twice per day. Concerned about moisture in the oil and the battery being depleted due to cold starts. Not sure if putting it on the block will accomplish what want it to. Your thoughts?
 
I have a freeze plug one in the side of my block which on a cold day I have instant heat so I know that one is running good. And I have a magnetic one on the lowest one side of my oil pan. I cant tell yet what the temp change is but I know my oil pressure goes to the same psi as if i were to drive it for half an hour or idle it for 10-15 min with the heater plugged in for the idle time.

It also starts like its warm even on the frostiest days so It must be doing good. Its also nice to not have to wipe snow off your hood cause it melts quick with all the heat.

My camaro when it was winter driven has no block heater and was a pain to get warm.

Our versa has a little block heater and I have been plugging it in and it sure sounds quieter apposed to not plugging it in. It does help with the taking forever to heat up but it still takes a while even with driving. Once its there its good though.

Id say for you get a block heater put in they are quite cheap and you can pick between the frost plug one or one that goes in line on the rad hose. They work good as well. But for now put that on the oil pan if you can. I dont think convection would raise the coolant temp much compared to the thinner oil pan with less fluid to heat up.
Or is that conduction? Whichever one it is My vote is the oil pad if you can. Also not related to oil but check the cold crank of you battery then check the cranking amps. If you get an inexpensive battery blanket you could get some spring performance from your battery. they are cheap and look pretty classy.
 
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Hello, Since 2.5 miles is such a short distance I'd guess putting the heater on the oil pan will give you more bang for the buck. Still, what's the wattage of that heater? I doubt your oil will ever see temps high enough to drive off water. I'll bet your oil will be trashed by your limited driving. Therefore I suggest using conventional oil and changing it frequently enough to keep the oil's condition "better than bad". What would be a cool thing to do is measure your battery's voltage every single morning before you start the car. This way you can track it's condition. If starting your car so often (relevant to recharge time) beats your battery down; consider a charger for home use. If you find your battery loses its charge over time, having it load tested by well meaning mechanics will kill it even more. Chevy offered a 4 cyl. engine in that truck? I assume "(l4)" means inline 4. Kira
 
Yes, it is a 4 cylinder. Short trips has me debating my oil change habits. Was considering going with Quaker State Ultimate Duty and doing changes every six months ($24 oil and filter). I am only putting about 400 miles per month on the vehicle at this point. That may change come summer, but this is my primary driving habit.

I've been hearing that Motorcraft oil is 60% synthetic. I can buy the bulk where I work for about $2.25 per quart. This means I can do a Motorcraft change for about $13, oil and filter. With the addition of an oil pan heater, the oil should hold up well. This is the plan I will probably go with.
 
Motorcraft at $2.25/qt and change at 6 months interval is the best option, especially with oil pan heater for cold winter in South Dakota.
 
I have oil pan heaters on both cars. They help with heating up. They were easy, if a bit messy, to install. The hardest part was deciding where to run the cord!
 
Originally Posted By: antonmnster
wish i could find one for my BMW!


http://www.amazon.com/Kats-24150-Watt-Un...8792&sr=8-3

That's what was installed onto both of the cars in my signature. I did it in about 45 minutes per car, including scouting an area for the pads to go. The pads form to irregularities pretty well once they're heated up a little bit. I heated the pads with a heat gun so as not to ruin them. The only additional items you'll need are some nitrile gloves, RTV silicone sealant, and zip-ties for running the cord.
 
I would think it best to put it in the pan. That way the oil can be easily picked up by the oil pump right away.
 
Well that didn't work! Went to install the heater, magnets don't stick to aluminum. Guess I will try to make it through this year and put a frost plug heater in before next winter. Luckily, this winter has been fairly mild thus far. Hopefully, only two months to go.
 
Get a Wolverine Oil Pan heater, they work great. It mounts on the bottom of the oil pan, it makes cold starting much easier.
 
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