Few questions from a noob.

[Turk]

Originally Posted By: Cristobal
That's why I said short OCI intervals. In a situation like this the Orange Can would do.

I think better filters are best for longer intervals, but that is not what is the situation here. This is just a short-term solution I propose for a sludge problem.

I suppose one could use the very best filters, but that is like buying a new Cadillac to haul trash to the dump with. It is a waste of money. If one is going to go as far as that, tearing down the engine to manually remove the sludge is the thing to do and that is expensive.

The oil and filter should be changed at short intervals; PYB will probably take care of the sludge. Once that is done, it's done.


I do understand your reasoning, but spend an extra $1-2 and get a quality filter with all that junk in that engine. Doesn't need to be the top filter, of course.

99% people here wouldn't ever recommend a "Fram Orange Can of Death" as it's very well known name.

 

[LeakySeals]

I used to use MMO, seafoam, etc. The only one that did anything permanent was Kreen. Now I just use Mobil 1 High Mileage Oil on older used cars with unknown histories. Gets them cleaned up over the course of an oil change, then change to whatever oil you plan to use or just stay with it.

 

[zyxelenator]

As I observed my filters, during hardcore cleaning(ARX,Seafoam,MMO,Kreen,couple flushes)sludge will mainly liquefy killing your TBN quick, there will be some crums/crud in filters,but they are big enough to pick it up with fingers. No need for fancy filter in such short runs and like 80 micron debris. Better to have oversize filter. Ebay has pack of filters cheap,Amazon has great sales sometimes.But if he wan't shop to do it, they should have pile of filters.

 

[Pablo]

People are needlessly "scaring" you away from Amsoil engine flush. If used per the instructions it will not damage seals, nor will it immediately cause a clog for your oil pick-up screen. Be sure to put on a cheapie oil filter before the treatment to help catch some of the gunk, because 10:1 says your current filter is already in by-pass.

The others are giving you decent advice. Get some MMO in there and change the oil frequently. Do the Amsoil flush at the end of each short run. If it's not too far gone, you will be good.

I have have brought back many a Toyota engine, so I know a thing or two.

 

[Pablo]

Too late for edit, but here is something I wrote many moons ago:

Pablo's Nasty Engine Clean-up Instructions

Take the Auto-Rx stuff with a grain of salt. It will help, but MMO will be about the same. The important thing is flushing and lots of repeated oil changes.

 

[spasm3]

The purolator classic would work here, not that expensive and you dont really want fine filtering at this point as you will clog the filter and go in to bypass. Purolator classic, or even supertech for a few short runs will do. I'd run pennzoil with mmo or mobil clean 5000 with mmo for say 2000 miles but change the filter at 500 and 1000 miles, if you want to use the flush do it at the end of this change. Next oil put in a good synthetic like penn , mobil 1 hm and change filter at around 2000 miles, change the oil at 5k for the next few changes until clean.

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: Heisenberg
Originally Posted By: Brenden
10k oci on an unknown bulk oil

I recommend nothing but changing the oil yourself, it can be done in any driveway. I would look down the oil hole and see if it is sludged up before you put in amsoil flush, if it loosens up too much stuff it can clog your oil returns or your oil pickup screen.

You have a lot to learn, good to see you are trying to learn from your mistakes.


Thanks. I would change the oil but there are 2 feet of snow on the ground and it is 10 degrees out.

Looking in the oil cap brings up another problem. It looks like this:

Which I am told is coked oil. Is there a way to clean it?


Based on the picture which tells a very small part of the stor, it looks like a job for Kreen. Run it for the last 1000 miles of two shortened OCI's. That should clean it up, I'd go that route before I used any of the so called safe fast flushes. Good luck and welcome to Bitog.

PS- Stay away from oil change places and their flush services!

 

[LeakySeals]

I use the Fram XG (xtended guard) oil filter for cleanups. You can read about them online here, readily available at Walmart.

 

[Astro14]

Pablo's got it right...really, so does everyone else, though the product recommendations differ...

The point is this: it will take some time to clean up your engine, during that time, you're going to need to change the filter and the oil more often...regardless of what you use, there are no quick fixes.

Properly maintained, your engine will go well over 200K...poorly maintained, well...though it's not in my sig, the 4 Runner has over 230K on it...the Volvos are both pushing 150K...and all of them run perfectly...
Glad you learned that ignoring maintenance is way more expensive than good maintenance...and welcome to BITOG!

 

[CharBaby]

Originally Posted By: zyxelenator
Most likely You have sludge. Remove front valve cover to confirm. I have same engine. Search my threads(click on name, view user profile, user posts, "then topics created").
MMO and Kreen are you friends now.
You can safely go 3000 miles on Dino oil, 4000-4500 miles on blend, 5000+ on synthetic, but not 10k. I'll do UOA to see how G-oil synthetic performed.
First thing to do- change your PCV valve, get valve from dealer.


Dude, your scaring Heisenberg! You don't know that Heisenberg's Avalon has sludge! Not only that but, if Heisenberg doesn't do oil/filter changes, do you think that Heisenberg is going to remove the valve cover?

The baffle in my '01 1mzfe looks the same way and I've been diligent about OCI's.

Heisenberg,

WELCOME!

Yes, you have much to learn but right now, start by taking care of the engine with proper Oil Change Intervals(OCI's) using oils/filters held in high regard here at Bob's(which is just about any oil/filter today).

Learn about the PCV system in the Avalon's engine, the Toyota 3.0 Liter V6 code# 1MZFE. And also about the automatic tranny and which fluid is proper for it.

If your not going to change your own oil/filter, pick a place that you trust and feel good about. Quick Lube shops vary in their quality of employees & workmanship across the country so, go by recomendations of family and friend in your neck of the woods. See what others like(those whom you trust!)

The Avalon is a nice car and you'll enjoy it...Good Luck with your "new to you" car!

 

[kendrickson]

If I could not pull the valve cover myself, I would simply take it to a good independent mechanic and have him pull a valve cover and show me exactly what is underneath. The picture that you showed does not necessarily indicate anything wrong (it was mentioned that the baffle looks that way even on cars with good maintenance). You did say that records show that the car has had regular oil changes, so it is probably just fine. Paying a mechanic to pull a valve cover will be no more expensive than paying for an engine flush, and you will have the peace of mind knowing exactly what condition your engine is in. Take some pictures of the engine if there is sludge, and then determine how to deal with it at that point.

 

[toneydoc]

Hello Heisenberg,

Too bad about the Lexus. Toyota makes fine engines and will last a long time if well maintained. If your new car had frequent oil changes, you probably have minimal sludge. The key point here is frequent oil changes. 10k miles is too long of an interval in my opinion. Since you are new to the site, you will get many varied and sometimes biased opinions. Read them, look at the site and its different data, and make an educated decision.

This site can give you excellent data on oils, filters, and other products. And different people on this site like almost all of them. Since you seem to want to take your car to a shop for oil changes, choose a good oil and filter and get it done every 3-4k miles for a few oil changes and check the oil frequently between those changes. You may detect loss of oil, no loss of oil, rapid changes in oil, no rapid changes, etc.
Keep the oil topped off to the full level during the intervals.

If you do not want to change your own oil and filter, which by the way, can be easy and fun, I would not recommend you take off valve cover. That may not be fun for you and you might never get to changing your own oil.

Routine maint is just that-routine. Needs to be done regularly. Accept it, enjoy it, take care of the toyota. Happy reading on bob the oil guy

 

[kschachn]

No, no, no, no, no. I know ppl have already said this, but that baffle you see looks like that (more or less) in a brand new engine. That is NOT the internal surface of the engine! Just pull the front valve cover or pay someone to do it, it is -very- easy and it will give you an indication of what is going on in that engine. Just make sure you have a new valve cover gasket when it is done, you can't reuse the old one.

Originally Posted By: Heisenberg
Looking in the oil cap brings up another problem. It looks like this:

Which I am told is coked oil. Is there a way to clean it?

 

[kschachn]

THIS is the only view that is going to do you any good:

http://205.243.146.146/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2204086&page=1

Now pulling the lower oil pan is another way to see things but that is NOT easy on this engine. The Toyota FIPG that glues the lower pan to the upper one must be cut away along the perimeter and either takes a special tool or a lot of time to accomplish without damaging anything.

The rear bank is nice to see too but that likewise is not easy to get to. Just pull the front cover and see what there is to see. You will find out what you want to know by doing that.

 

[mva]

Originally Posted By: Char Baby


Learn about the PCV system in the Avalon's engine, the Toyota 3.0 Liter V6 code# 1MZFE. And also about the automatic tranny and which fluid is proper for it.

If your not going to change your own oil/filter, pick a place that you trust and feel good about.


+1 Good sound advice

There is no evidence that you have a sludge problem. I have a Toyota Sienna with the same engine and the baffle under the oil fill cap has always looked like your photo. I pulled the valve cover and there was no sludge.

My MZ1FE photos at 282,000 km

This engine is hard on oil and the PCV valve is a well known problem area. Get the PCV valve changed right away. Dino is ok but a synthetic oil is worth the extra money for this vehicle.

Keep up with the oil changes. I would not go over 5000 miles with dino and 7500 for synthetic. Use a brand name 5W30 synthetic or dino such as Pennzoil, Castrol, Valvoline, Mobil etc. I have been running PP 5W30 (Pennzoil Platinum) in mine for the past 3 years.

As for the tranny - I am currently running Castrol Import Dex III. This fluid smooths out the shifts. I also do a frequent drain and fill since it is so easy on this vehicle.

 

[kschachn]

I just read your sig, mva. We must think a lot alike

 

[kevinf]

Been there. I bought a 2001 Sienna 4.5 years ago with 87,000 mi. Was concerned about sludge but had no real reason to believe I had it.
DONT SCRAPE THE BAFFLE UNDER THE CAP. It isn't sludge you feel, the baffle has a scratchy coating on it put there by Toyota for who knows what reason.

Here's exactly what I did:

1 - changed oil, 5W30 dino with 1qt Rislone and 5oz Seafoam to crankcase, Heet to gas tank, changed pcv valve.
2- at the next fillup added 8 oz marvel's mystery oil to gas
3- at 370 miles on the oil, added 8 oz seafoam to crankcase.
4- did second oil & filter change with only 640 miles on the oil 4 qts Autozone 5W30, 1 qt MMO.
5 - 425 miles changed the oil filter
6 - added 994 miles after the filter change, change the oil and filter. went to full synthetic, sent old oil for testing to Blackstone, it came out with low wear numbers, so I continued with changes from 3,000 - 4,000 miles on synthetic for a while just to be sure.

You can see my lab results in historical posts. Keep an eye on your pcv valve. For a while I used genuine toyota filters, which are very good. Lately I've been using PureOne. Car has 134,000 problem free miles now.

Welcome! and have fun learning here, this site is full of awesome people who all want to help.

 

[Sayjac]

First, I don't know if your Avalon is sludged or it's just the Toyota valve cover baffle showing the dark black condition. That said, you are correct, the 99 Avalon is on the 'sludger'(sludge prone vehicle) list as documented here. So, not trying to scare you just stating my opinion based on the information you provided, there's a decent chance that to some degree, you have a sludged engine.

Quite frankly, not sure I would invest much time, effort and/or money in pulling valve covers. If it's running well I'd choose from some of the suggestion listed here, shortened OCI's, using one of the engine cleaners/flush, using one of the good cleaning oils, changing pcv, and using a less expensive filter similar to Puro Classic during the process.

And while these (sludger) vehicles may or may not have had 'regular' maintenance, in the case of these vehicles, shorter than vehicle manufacturers recommended oci's was/is generally best practice.

I am wondering which Lexus model you owned, and if it's been your bad luck to own two of such vehicles?

 

[The_Eric]

Originally Posted By: Char Baby
Originally Posted By: zyxelenator
Most likely You have sludge. Remove front valve cover to confirm. I have same engine. Search my threads(click on name, view user profile, user posts, "then topics created").
MMO and Kreen are you friends now.
You can safely go 3000 miles on Dino oil, 4000-4500 miles on blend, 5000+ on synthetic, but not 10k. I'll do UOA to see how G-oil synthetic performed.
First thing to do- change your PCV valve, get valve from dealer.


Dude, your scaring Heisenberg! You don't know that Heisenberg's Avalon has sludge! Not only that but, if Heisenberg doesn't do oil/filter changes, do you think that Heisenberg is going to remove the valve cover?

The baffle in my '01 1mzfe looks the same way and I've been diligent about OCI's.

Heisenberg,

WELCOME!

Yes, you have much to learn but right now, start by taking care of the engine with proper Oil Change Intervals(OCI's) using oils/filters held in high regard here at Bob's(which is just about any oil/filter today).

Learn about the PCV system in the Avalon's engine, the Toyota 3.0 Liter V6 code# 1MZFE. And also about the automatic tranny and which fluid is proper for it.

If your not going to change your own oil/filter, pick a place that you trust and feel good about. Quick Lube shops vary in their quality of employees & workmanship across the country so, go by recomendations of family and friend in your neck of the woods. See what others like(those whom you trust!)

The Avalon is a nice car and you'll enjoy it...Good Luck with your "new to you" car!



First off, welcome!

Secondly, like others have pointed out, there's no reason to suspect sludge at this point. There is a lot of good advice in Char's post and I suggest you heed it.

If the car has records of regular service, then likely it's fine. I suggest you start your own regimen and move on from there. Pick a drain interval you're comfortable with (and one that suits the engine), then pick a oil/filter combo that meets your needs. If you don't know, there are lots of willing and knowledgeable members here who do.

 

[kschachn]

Originally Posted By: sayjac

Quite frankly, not sure sure I would invest much time, effort and/or money in pulling valve covers.


FWIW, if you do it yourself it is about $12 and less than an hour of your time to pull the front one. It's probably leaking anyway, and it will give you a wealth of information on the internal health of that engine.