This fixed oil consumption in toyota 1ZZ-FE engine

[CATERHAM]

Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Overfilling may INCREASE oil temps. The crank , rods, and pistons are shearing more oil. The film on the pistons/ bores/ and rings is the same with high or low oil levels. The temps there won't change. If any extra oil did get in there, it would result in more oil use, and probable carbon build up.

Don't agree.
Raising the oil sump level will reduce oil temp's, by both increasing the time it takes for oil temp's to rise and the maximum oil temp's acheived.
The disadvantage is a possible increase in oil aeration but that would be very much engine specific.

Common sense telling me that raising the oil sump level increases the time it takes for oil temp to rise to operating temperature, but I don't know it it will reduce oil temp or raising it.

Since oil temp's are not usually thermostatically controlled, maximum oil temp's are related to the heat imputs (throttle position) applied over time and limited by whatever cooling effect can be applied to the oil from external sources like cool ambient temp's, air flow over a finned aluminium sump, oil coolers and oil/coolant heat exchangers.
Especially during high speed driving when a lot of WOT is used, oil temp's will rise above normal and if one has less oil in the system not only will the temp's rise faster but utimately will rise higher. More oil in the system has a suppressing effect on both.

 

[friendly_jacek]

Originally Posted By: CATERHAM

Especially during high speed driving when a lot of WOT is used, oil temp's will rise above normal and if one has less oil in the system not only will the temp's rise faster but utimately will rise higher. More oil in the system has a suppressing effect on both.


This is exactly how my oil consumption started. High speed long highway run on a VERY hot day with AC on and oil was halfway between full and empty on dipstick (= low on the revised dipstick) at the very end of 5000 miles OCI. That was apparently enough to overheat oil and dump oxidated oil deposits in the piston return holes.

 

[lexus114]

Originally Posted By: friendly_jacek
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM

Especially during high speed driving when a lot of WOT is used, oil temp's will rise above normal and if one has less oil in the system not only will the temp's rise faster but utimately will rise higher. More oil in the system has a suppressing effect on both.


This is exactly how my oil consumption started. High speed long highway run on a VERY hot day with AC on and oil was halfway between full and empty on dipstick (= low on the revised dipstick) at the very end of 5000 miles OCI. That was apparently enough to overheat oil and dump oxidated oil deposits in the piston return holes.



Thats quite a theory.

 

[friendly_jacek]

Originally Posted By: mechtech2

Overfilling may INCREASE oil temps. The crank , rods, and pistons are shearing more oil. The film on the pistons/ bores/ and rings is the same with high or low oil levels. The temps there won't change. If any extra oil did get in there, it would result in more oil use, and probable carbon build up.
A synthetic oil won't fix worn bores or rings.


I don't know if you noticed, but we are not talking about worn bore and rings.

as for the oil temp vs oil capacity:

Quote:
A larger capacity can also reduce engine operating temperatures to the benefit of both oil life and engine components such as crankshaft bearings.


http://www.patentstorm.us/patents/6250274/description.html

This is the only reference I could find on Google Scholar. Not much published on it.

 

[friendly_jacek]

Originally Posted By: lexus114

Thats quite a theory.

Yes, it is just a theory, but should be easy to replicate with my car. But guess what, I'm not going to do it.

 

[lexus114]

Originally Posted By: friendly_jacek
Originally Posted By: lexus114

Thats quite a theory.

Yes, it is just a theory, but should be easy to replicate with my car. But guess what, I'm not going to do it.



I`m just teasing ya. I have some theory`s you wouldnt believe.

 

[dblshock]

I see Seafoam says 1.5 oz. per qt. of oil cleans deposits..they say to leave it in for the OCI..I have a Toyota 1.5 thats using a quart every 5k, noticable sludge under the oil fill cap too..should I run the Seafoam like they say?

 

[LeakySeals]

Originally Posted By: dblshock
I see Seafoam says 1.5 oz. per qt. of oil cleans deposits..they say to leave it in for the OCI..I have a Toyota 1.5 thats using a quart every 5k, noticable sludge under the oil fill cap too..should I run the Seafoam like they say?


Don't use Seafoam! Your better off with M1 HM for an oil change

 

[LeakySeals]

Originally Posted By: lexus114
Originally Posted By: friendly_jacek
Originally Posted By: lexus114

Thats quite a theory.

Yes, it is just a theory, but should be easy to replicate with my car. But guess what, I'm not going to do it.



I`m just teasing ya. I have some theory`s you wouldnt believe.


LOL his theory is true!

 

[dblshock]

Don't use Seafoam! Your better off with M1 HM for an oil change [/quote]


Was hoping not to spend that kind of money..Have cheap 5/20 with abour 4k left on the OCI..thinking I'd just dump in 6oz. of seafoam for the remaining 4k then maybe do it again next OCI

 

[LeakySeals]

Originally Posted By: dblshock
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Don't use Seafoam! Your better off with M1 HM for an oil change

Was hoping not to spend that kind of money..Have cheap 5/20 with abour 4k left on the OCI..thinking I'd just dump in 6oz. of seafoam for the remaining 4k then maybe do it again next OCI

Sure use it up. Its got 20% IPA so keep an eye on oil level. MMO for the whole OCI as a cleaner works ok too and is less volatile. Plus its cheaper. You'd be surprised what a single $6.00 quart of M1 HM added to whatever oil your using for the OC will do. Its how i started

First seafoam, then MMO, then M1 HMO.

 

[dblshock]

did the seafoam 1.5 per on my 2.4 Accord too..800 miles into it now and the oil has barely changed color like a dark maple syrup..What is a IPA? why does that effect oil consumption?

 

[friendly_jacek]

I came across this old post of mine and realized I need to update it.

The oil consumption fix was not permanent. I came back during the next OCI, where I used QS synthetic 5W30, incidentally the first synthetic oil this car saw. I don't blame the oil though.

This is what I think it's happening: piston soaks clean the oil control rings, but if the oil return holes are permanently plugged up, oil rings get stuck again. The first MMO piston soak was good for 3,000 miles on PYB. Now, oil consumption came back roughly 5,000 miles after Kreen soak, after short OCI with Maxlife followed by QS oil. If the theory is right, I will have consumption back in 5,000 miles. I'm running Maxlife synthetic 5W30 at the moment and plan to do about 5,000 miles on it.

Will try remember to report back. I have a few different oils in my stash to try as well as some modifications of Kreen soak/treatment.

 

[Phishin]

I think it's nearly impossible (this is just my theory) to clean plugged oil return holes with solvent. Those deposits are soooooo hard and nasty.

Has anyone on here ever gone a piston soak with something really strong? I've wanted to try a piston soak with 100% Xylene or Toluene. Add 2 oz. Let it sit for a few hours. Add another 2 oz. Let it sit for a few hours. Add another two, and then let it sit over night. (this should loosen the plugs up nicely). Turn engine over to remove excess Xylene in the morning, and then add another 2 ounces for maybe 30 minutes. Remove excess solvent and perhaps spray cylinders with fogging oil (solvent washed down all the cylinders) and take car out and run the snot out of it with Kreen in the oil. Maybe loosening up the plugs, and then running it hard with Kreen might push the plugs through the holes.

Kinda crazy, I know. But it's something I'm wanting to trying in the spring on my truck.

 

[Vikas]

If you have tired old OPE like snow blower or a mower, try it on it first. I tried Kreen on my lawn mower but it made no difference. It has very high oil consumption and the compression is at the low end of the specification.

 

[friendly_jacek]

Originally Posted By: Phishin
I think it's nearly impossible (this is just my theory) to clean plugged oil return holes with solvent. Those deposits are soooooo hard and nasty.

Has anyone on here ever gone a piston soak with something really strong? I've wanted to try a piston soak with 100% Xylene or Toluene. Add 2 oz. Let it sit for a few hours. Add another 2 oz. Let it sit for a few hours. Add another two, and then let it sit over night. (this should loosen the plugs up nicely). Turn engine over to remove excess Xylene in the morning, and then add another 2 ounces for maybe 30 minutes. Remove excess solvent and perhaps spray cylinders with fogging oil (solvent washed down all the cylinders) and take car out and run the snot out of it with Kreen in the oil. Maybe loosening up the plugs, and then running it hard with Kreen might push the plugs through the holes.

Kinda crazy, I know. But it's something I'm wanting to trying in the spring on my truck.


I don't think you'll find a stronger cleaner than Kreen. However, the very first piston soak I did was before I knew of Kreen. I used MMO soak overnight and emptied the standing fluid back by syringe and plastic tube. The MMO came back dirty but nothing major. The second soak was for a few hrs using B12 solvent and that came back loaded in sooth. By the time I pulled that fluid back, the syringe and tubing was soft and ruined. Then I finished by squirting 5 ml of ATF into cylinders to provide for some compression when cranking.

That particular combo soak stopped consumption completely for exactly 3000 miles. When I did MMO only soaks later, it worked only partially.

This is why I dodn't think MMO is strong enough for soaks and mover to Kreen.

 

[cutter]

When I had an 01 manufactured 1zz-fed, I found that I the only thing that fixed the consumption issue was to get a 2zz-ge

Piston soaks and all those additives did help control consumption vs without.

 

[Bladecutter]

Originally Posted By: friendly_jacek
I don't think you'll find a stronger cleaner than Kreen.


Well, that's not true.

If it were my car, what I would do would be this:

Drain Engine oil from oil pan. Leave out drain plug. Put clean empty oil pan under drain.
Remove all 4 spark plugs.
Stick a long object into spark plug hole (I prefer long matches, like for a fireplace).
Crank engine by hand until object is as high as it gets, indicating TDC.
Fill combustion chamber on that cylinder and matching cylinder with Berryman Chem-dip.
Let sit 2 hours.
Suck out chem-dip in those 2 cylinders.
Rotate engine so that alternate pair of cylinders are at TDC, and fill with Chem-Dip.
Let sit for 2 hours.
Repeat once more for each pair of cylinders, for a total of 2 soaks per cylinder pair.

Pour new oil into engine after reinstalling drain plug.
Drive engine for 100 miles.
Oil and filter change.
Drive for 500 miles.
Second Chem-dip session, exactly as above.

If the oil consumption isn't eliminated, start wondering why I bought a Toyota.
Trade car in for more enjoyable to drive Mazda.

BC.

 

[C4Dave]

Back in the old days carb dip was mostly methylene chloride. Today's dip is weak-kneed EPA watered down feel-good junk.

The good news is that you can still get MeCl. It's called Paint Stripper. Check the label or MSDS to verify it has the good stuff in it. Use at your own risk and make sure everything is removed since it will eat up everything non-metallic, including gaskets.

Good luck!

 

[friendly_jacek]

Originally Posted By: C4Dave
Back in the old days carb dip was mostly methylene chloride. Today's dip is weak-kneed EPA watered down feel-good junk.

The good news is that you can still get MeCl. It's called Paint Stripper. Check the label or MSDS to verify it has the good stuff in it. Use at your own risk and make sure everything is removed since it will eat up everything non-metallic, including gaskets.

Good luck!


LOL, paint stripper is exactly what I used to get rid of gaskets when I rebuilt a carb lately. I still have plenty of it left. Somehow I don't feel like putting inside the engine though.