2007 Duramax 8.8k 5w-40 shell Rotella

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Originally Posted By: Boczech
I might be interested in buying a 6.0 if the price was right. Where have you been looking Blaze ?


Spokane area. Been seeing alot of them lately. Low miles and priced real decent. Some of them have been showroom clean and perfect bodies etc. It will be used summers only to haul hay.
 
Originally Posted By: Blaze
Originally Posted By: Boczech
I might be interested in buying a 6.0 if the price was right. Where have you been looking Blaze ?


Spokane area. Been seeing alot of them lately. Low miles and priced real decent. Some of them have been showroom clean and perfect bodies etc. It will be used summers only to haul hay.


Thanks for the info Blaze. There is a guy out of Georgia that has a site called powerstrokehelp that might be helpful if you go that route with a 6.0
 
"mikoffey" what is your fuel filter change interval that you mentioned?? 15,000 miles? I have the same rig by the way.
 
I usually chang the fuel filter when the chang fuel filter warning comes on. Around 15-18K miles
 
Glad to read this thread. I switched to T6 for the winter in October and my LLY is running smooth. Thinking I will just take a sample at 5k and see how it looks. Might have to consider running this summer and winter. I certainly like cold starts better with T6 then a dino 15w-40 I was using.
 
Originally Posted By: RayK
Glad to read this thread. I switched to T6 for the winter in October and my LLY is running smooth. Thinking I will just take a sample at 5k and see how it looks. Might have to consider running this summer and winter. I certainly like cold starts better with T6 then a dino 15w-40 I was using.


Consider the T5 10w-30 from Shell, typically availalable at any Walmart. You get the same cold crank start up rating as the T6, for far less money. And you can run the T5 year round with no worries whatsoever.
 
If I'm able to run the T6 for 10k miles, I'll be happy to pay for it. It's really not expensive compared to other oils. I like full syn's along with the soot control.

I didn't think 10w-30 was first choice by GM for the oil to use.
 
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First - welcome to the site! I should have said that earlier. This is a great place to learn and contribute.

Second, as a fellow Dmax owner, along with others here, I can assure you that synthetics used at "normal" OCIs is a total waste of your money.

There are hundreds, thousands of UOAs showing that conventional lubes will easily survive 10k miles, and more at times, under extreme use. These UOAs also show that, compared to synthetics, there is no benefit to using a syn for these "normal" OCI durations. You won't see less wear, or cleaner PC counts, etc by using syns for short-to-moderate durations. The OLM in your Dmax is fairly accurate. If you follow it, or change oil even before that, you're going to be just fine using a conventional oil, and save a LOT of money.

You can easily use a 10w-30 year round; I do, and so do others. It is not the "preferred" grade, but it is an "approved" grade for the Dmax.

My point is this: syns have an advantage ONLY when the OCI is pushed out far, so that their capabilities outperform a conventional lube as it degrades. But if you are only going to OCI at "normal" intervals, there is no "advantage" to using the syn because the capability of the dino oil is still well in control. There is PLENTY of proof that 10k mile OCIs with conventional oil is well within that capability of a dino lube. Your engine (which is one of the best wearing light duty diesels on the market) really doesn't care what lube you use, as long as it is a properly spec'd fluid.

It's not "wrong" to use T6 (or any other syn). But it's not a good decision to waste any product. Frankly, even dumping dino oil at 5k miles is a waste in a Dmax.

It would help you to figure out your overall use and maintenance plan, and then pick a lube that fits into those criteria.
* If you're going to do "normal" OCIs, I'd suggest using a conventional 10w-30 year round, and OCI when the OLM tells you to. You could do a compromise with the T5 here if yu choose.
* If you're in a position to drive a LOT of miles per year, then perhaps the advantage of syns can pay off with less downtime and such, and push your OCI out past the investment point. Do some UOAs for confirmation, and mangage your program well. It takes a committment to make this work, and many people fail here because they cannot keep their hands off the wrenches.

I would ask that you spend some time in the HDEO UOA section, and look over many of the Dmax UOAs, and you'll see the evidence for yourself.
 
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Updated UOA Shell Rotella T6 1 additional qt. total vehicle miles 109376. 13740 miles on oil.

Aluminum 2
Chromium 1
Iron 14
Copper 3
lead 2
Tin 3
Molybdenum 76
Nickel 0
Manganese 0
Silver 0
Titanium 0
Potassium 5
Boron 34
Silicon 9
Sodium 8
Calcium 924
Magnesium 1366
Phosphorus 1239
Zinc 1434
Barium 0
SUS Viscosity @210F 72.5
cSt Viscosity @100c 13.60
Flashpoint in F 410
Fuel % Antifreeze % 0.0
Water % 0.0
Insolubles % 0.3
TBN 8.4
 
Suitable for continued use. Great numbers; low wear, high TBN, low insolubles, vis down a bit but not dangerous by any means.

I would suspect that because you're at 14k miles, and given the current conditions, you could easily extend out to 18k miles, and recheck.

At some point, you'll have to decide what condemnation levels might trigger an OCI, but right now, I see no reason to do so.
 
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