Part of the problem is you picked one of the coldest days we have had in Missouri to put that thick goop in there. I have run #132 Moly E.P. Oil Treatment which is thick, but have also put MMO in there so it is not too thick. If it were me, I think I may just put in some MMO. You can buy a pint and get one free at Advance right now. I will be using some MMO toward the end of my oil change. I have run a quart at the beginning of an oil change occasionally in the winter. Probably the only thing that will destroy that engine is lack of oil. I have put all kinds of concoctions in there and it only runs better. If I had it to do over again I may have just used regular oil with regular oil changes and regular topping off. So far, Pennzoil Yellow bottle has been the best for my oil consumption. It helped a little.
bardahl no smoke causing big trouble!!!!
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Originally Posted By: chevyboy14
So I'm in the advance auto today. Git a gift card there for Xmas. And picked up a few nick nacks. And I got on the topic of my oil consumption and the guy said his brother had a Saturn and the no smoke helped alot because it was thick and I figured what the heck ill try it. I warmed my engine up like they said to do and put it in drove for 20 mins and went home I checked my oil and its lower than it was. So I popped oil cap and there is the [censored] they call no smoke sittingin the head and it won't drain. What should I do? I don't want to leave it in there. Any help is appreciated
I'm curious as to what exactly you see. Can you post a picture of what you have described?
So I'm in the advance auto today. Git a gift card there for Xmas. And picked up a few nick nacks. And I got on the topic of my oil consumption and the guy said his brother had a Saturn and the no smoke helped alot because it was thick and I figured what the heck ill try it. I warmed my engine up like they said to do and put it in drove for 20 mins and went home I checked my oil and its lower than it was. So I popped oil cap and there is the [censored] they call no smoke sittingin the head and it won't drain. What should I do? I don't want to leave it in there. Any help is appreciated
I'm curious as to what exactly you see. Can you post a picture of what you have described?
Originally Posted By: chevyboy14
I agree I'm done messing with it. I will just use conventional oil from here on out. On your Saturn did you notice a difference with regular or hm oil? I will probably use Valvoline from here on out.
Pennzoil hm seemed to work a bit better than the maxlife. I did a run of m1 ep while he was away at college. Some uoa's seem to show a week ad pak in the pennz hm. I'm going back to it next oci.
I agree I'm done messing with it. I will just use conventional oil from here on out. On your Saturn did you notice a difference with regular or hm oil? I will probably use Valvoline from here on out.
Pennzoil hm seemed to work a bit better than the maxlife. I did a run of m1 ep while he was away at college. Some uoa's seem to show a week ad pak in the pennz hm. I'm going back to it next oci.
Not really you wouldn't see much. My engine is tapping to. Sounds like a lifter or something that usually isn't there. I'm going to call the company and complain. There oil product sucks. I put it in a warm engine and it still did this. Its entirely to thick for a car but that's my opinion backed up with no scientific facts.
Originally Posted By: chevyboy14
Not really you wouldn't see much. My engine is tapping to. Sounds like a lifter or something that usually isn't there. I'm going to call the company and complain. There oil product sucks. I put it in a warm engine and it still did this. Its entirely to thick for a car but that's my opinion backed up with no scientific facts.
Of course its ticking and rapping from oil starvation. "Can't burn oil if there's no oil to burn". The motor honey/no smoke thick oil concept.
Not really you wouldn't see much. My engine is tapping to. Sounds like a lifter or something that usually isn't there. I'm going to call the company and complain. There oil product sucks. I put it in a warm engine and it still did this. Its entirely to thick for a car but that's my opinion backed up with no scientific facts.
Of course its ticking and rapping from oil starvation. "Can't burn oil if there's no oil to burn". The motor honey/no smoke thick oil concept.
If I'm not mistaken, the problem with certain Saturn years wasn't brittle, cracked or warn rings, it was the lack of oil return piston holes. Maybe thats your year, check it out. If thats the case maybe thinner would help prevent oil backing up on the rings and entering combustion chamber. On Toyotas with clogged piston oil return holes this is the desired method. Just a thought.
Uhh, I think I would start by changing the filter.
I think that under the circumstances it will have caught what has made it down to the oil pan and circulated through the system.
Then I would add a pint of MMO to thin what you have left out and to top off what you lost in the filter.
Just an idea.
I think that under the circumstances it will have caught what has made it down to the oil pan and circulated through the system.
Then I would add a pint of MMO to thin what you have left out and to top off what you lost in the filter.
Just an idea.
Do NOTuse MMO or any other snake oil.
I personally would use a HDEO like Shell Rotella for one change or maybe two and then go back to a regular detergent oil.
USE ONLY normal vehicle oil.
I personally would use a HDEO like Shell Rotella for one change or maybe two and then go back to a regular detergent oil.
USE ONLY normal vehicle oil.
Here was my method and so far its working. I ran it down the hwy then drained. It and poured mmo and chemtool in while it was draining and the dumped 3quarts of mixed oil I had laying around it was all 5w30 and 5w20 mix. I'm letting it drain for awhile and going to see what I get . 7 quarts is about what I should get in total if it worked
It got my Camry 5 miles to my buddys shop, had a blown vcg, but that was theduration of its stay in my engine. Did a flush to make sure it was gone.
How did the Bardahl flow out of the can but not down through the oil returns of a warm engine? It sounds like the oil returns were clogged or the engine was very cold. I have used many of the oil thickening additives over the years and have never seen anything like what you describe. Please help me understand this...
well good news. I got it all well most I'm sure there still a little God knows it so thick and sticky it clings to everything. I think we should make a sticky regarding the awfullness of oil thickening snake oils. I'm not sure how to make one or if there already is one.
But if there isn't we need one. And in case any one is curious I bought Pennzoil and will be using it exclusively from now on.
But if there isn't we need one. And in case any one is curious I bought Pennzoil and will be using it exclusively from now on.
I never used Bardahl No Smoke or Lucas Oil Stabilizer (or something similar), but I had/has used very thick VSOT(Valvoline Synpower Oil Treament).
I poured the desired amount, 1 oz per quart of oil, into a clean quart container then added the oil into that quart container up to a total of 3/4 quarts for easy shaking. Left the oil+VSOT bottle in the engine compartment then drove to work as normal the day I changed the oil. When I changed the oil in the evening after drove home from work, the oil+VSOT bottle was very warm and very easy to pour in the engine after the oil was changed.
I poured the desired amount, 1 oz per quart of oil, into a clean quart container then added the oil into that quart container up to a total of 3/4 quarts for easy shaking. Left the oil+VSOT bottle in the engine compartment then drove to work as normal the day I changed the oil. When I changed the oil in the evening after drove home from work, the oil+VSOT bottle was very warm and very easy to pour in the engine after the oil was changed.
I do not generally defend products like this one, but a sticky for this thread does not seem appropriate to me. This product is used by thousands and thousands of people. The idea that a single person with a single observation provides enough data to trigger a warning is seems irresponsible.
I would still like to know how the product can flow out of the bottle but not down the oil returns in a warm engine. I also want to know how multiple quarts of oil fluid could flow around or through the "glob" if the glob had clogged something.
I would still like to know how the product can flow out of the bottle but not down the oil returns in a warm engine. I also want to know how multiple quarts of oil fluid could flow around or through the "glob" if the glob had clogged something.
This thickening type of additives will not do any good. I have used a lot of other additives, that actually makes a difference, especially in worn engines.
I don't think it's a good idea to buy additives on a clearance sale, since these additives are mostly junk anyway, since people won't buy them.
Spend a couple of $ more, on proper additives.
It's better to use a couple of $ on something that works, than repeatably using 1 or 2 Bucks on something that never works.
Additives I know is working for most people, are; various Lubeguard products, MMO and ARX(and a couple of others, that I won't mention, since they are to expensive for "normal" people.
It is also wise to follow instructions on the packaging.
I don't think it's a good idea to buy additives on a clearance sale, since these additives are mostly junk anyway, since people won't buy them.
Spend a couple of $ more, on proper additives.
It's better to use a couple of $ on something that works, than repeatably using 1 or 2 Bucks on something that never works.
Additives I know is working for most people, are; various Lubeguard products, MMO and ARX(and a couple of others, that I won't mention, since they are to expensive for "normal" people.
It is also wise to follow instructions on the packaging.
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Engine was at temp. And I put the bottle on the engine for a few minutes while it was running to get it good and warm. I put half the bottle in which is 1/4 a quart which is what it said to do. And even after driving for 20 mins all that [censored] wouldnt go into the pan. I said we should make a stkcky on good additives and ones we should never use. And to be honest I don't care if you think it's irresponsible because it was a simple suggestion on my part. Also why is it that everyone hate snake oil but then when something bad is said some of you feel it necessary to defend it? Doesn't make alot of sense to me. Its pretty clear to me the [censored] is an awful product that will do more harm than good. If you don't agree that's fine but none of that stuff will be going in my car anytime soon. Im sticking pyb.
And the term flowed out of the bottle wouldn't be correct in was more of a globbed sticky mess. It doesn't flow. So it didn't even flow out of the bottle. Heck the bottle had a slit in it about a 1/2in long it sat on the counter for atleast 30mins and there was a spillage about the size of an eraser head. This stuff is just to thick. It'll screw more up than help. And a little engine with tight tolerances it was a dumb Decision on my part to even try it
It sounds like the packaging was damaged based on this last post. Is there a chance that the bottle that you purchased had lost some of the solvent due to evaporation and the product that you used does not represent product in undamaged bottles?
chevyboy14 wrote:
"Heck the bottle had a slit in it about a 1/2in long"
chevyboy14 wrote:
"Heck the bottle had a slit in it about a 1/2in long"
I think it happened when I put the bottle in my trunk next to various sharp objects. So no I don't believe it was damaged when I bought it
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