What is the best way to plug unused radiator oil cooler holes (engine oil or trans oil)? New radiators come with plastic caps/inserts for the oil coolers but I don't think they were meant as an option to be left in. Are brass plugs typically used with some thread sealer, or maybe heavy duty threaded plastic plugs? Are oil coolers ok to be sealed air tight and left empty with the heat differentials occurring in the radiator?
Best way to plug unused radiator oil cooler holes?
- Thread starter CaveatLector
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Theres no reason to seal them. No coolant will leak out of them. Theres a cooler inside the radiator and the fittings you see are just the in and out for ATF, not Coolant.
I put a used rad in an automatic car that had previously been a universal replacement in a stick shift car... follow me so far?
The trans cooler fittings were somewhat corroded, a year or two in service, no plugs, no nothing. It doesn't leak and the car still works fine.
The trans cooler fittings were somewhat corroded, a year or two in service, no plugs, no nothing. It doesn't leak and the car still works fine.
Originally Posted By: CaveatLector
Are oil coolers ok to be sealed air tight and left empty with the heat differentials occurring in the radiator?
Yes, and they don't even need to be air-tight. If you have enough pipe exposed, just crimp the ends flat with a pair of pliers.
Are oil coolers ok to be sealed air tight and left empty with the heat differentials occurring in the radiator?
Yes, and they don't even need to be air-tight. If you have enough pipe exposed, just crimp the ends flat with a pair of pliers.
Sorry I should have expanded on a few things to clarify. I wanted to keep things simple to avoid going off on tangents - oil cooler deletes and radiator electrolysis and such...
Here's a bit more info:
My current radiator needs to be replaced and I have already bypassed the engine and trans oil coolers. I left the holes open and there is no problem really. The van no longer has engine oil cooling but the transmission has had a single external aftermarket stacked plate trans cooler that I installed long ago.
I can't find a radiator for a 97 Chevy Astro that does not have the engine and/or trans oil coolers so I will likely have to buy the stock OEM version and plug the holes.
On the new radiator I want the holes sealed up with something just because it is new and I figure if I must have the oil coolers there in the radiator I might as well keep the option open to use them in the future and keep them sealed and clean. Leaving the holes open is not an option.
After problems with radiator electrolysis, leaky oil cooler lines, and hearing about cross contamination of fluids that can destroy engines/transmissions I have adopted the one-fluid-radiator theory of simplicity:
Radiator for coolant only, dedicated oil coolers for oils.
Here's a bit more info:
My current radiator needs to be replaced and I have already bypassed the engine and trans oil coolers. I left the holes open and there is no problem really. The van no longer has engine oil cooling but the transmission has had a single external aftermarket stacked plate trans cooler that I installed long ago.
I can't find a radiator for a 97 Chevy Astro that does not have the engine and/or trans oil coolers so I will likely have to buy the stock OEM version and plug the holes.
On the new radiator I want the holes sealed up with something just because it is new and I figure if I must have the oil coolers there in the radiator I might as well keep the option open to use them in the future and keep them sealed and clean. Leaving the holes open is not an option.
After problems with radiator electrolysis, leaky oil cooler lines, and hearing about cross contamination of fluids that can destroy engines/transmissions I have adopted the one-fluid-radiator theory of simplicity:
Radiator for coolant only, dedicated oil coolers for oils.
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Ya...Its' fine if you're really worried use teflon tape or Permatex liquid Teflon.
youcould probably use maple syrup to seal it..
youcould probably use maple syrup to seal it..
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If you have plastic female threads, be careful with the slippery teflon tape/lubes. You can overtighten the plug and crack your radiator tank. If using tape, use minimal wraps to also reduce stress on the female fitting.
Are there any radiator repair shops down there to answer your questions?
Are there any radiator repair shops down there to answer your questions?
Originally Posted By: CaveatLector
My current radiator needs to be replaced and I have already bypassed the engine and trans oil coolers. I left the holes open and there is no problem really. The van no longer has engine oil cooling but the transmission has had a single external aftermarket stacked plate trans cooler that I installed long ago.
Really, you're worried about nothing. Some 90% of AT failures are due to overheating. If you've already effectively taken care of the transmission's cooling needs, you don't need the cooler in the rad.
The aftermarket typically supplies radiators only for automatic vehicles. That means EVERYBODY gets dual/triple-core and an oil-cooler, whether they need it or not. Manual transmission vehicles cannot use the oil-cooler feature in any case, and there are tens of thousands of those running around with oil-cooler stubs that are taped off, soldered shut, crimped shut, or simply left open to the air.
Forget electrolysis, fluid contamination, leaks, or nanobots and fluoride in your coolant. Just install the rad, stuff plastic caps or corks in the cooler holes, then forget about it. Last time I needed to keep the cooler holes intact for long-term possible future-use, I soldered copper-plumbing caps on the stubs. I figured that was about as permanent as I could get while still being un-doable if needed.
My current radiator needs to be replaced and I have already bypassed the engine and trans oil coolers. I left the holes open and there is no problem really. The van no longer has engine oil cooling but the transmission has had a single external aftermarket stacked plate trans cooler that I installed long ago.
Really, you're worried about nothing. Some 90% of AT failures are due to overheating. If you've already effectively taken care of the transmission's cooling needs, you don't need the cooler in the rad.
The aftermarket typically supplies radiators only for automatic vehicles. That means EVERYBODY gets dual/triple-core and an oil-cooler, whether they need it or not. Manual transmission vehicles cannot use the oil-cooler feature in any case, and there are tens of thousands of those running around with oil-cooler stubs that are taped off, soldered shut, crimped shut, or simply left open to the air.
Forget electrolysis, fluid contamination, leaks, or nanobots and fluoride in your coolant. Just install the rad, stuff plastic caps or corks in the cooler holes, then forget about it. Last time I needed to keep the cooler holes intact for long-term possible future-use, I soldered copper-plumbing caps on the stubs. I figured that was about as permanent as I could get while still being un-doable if needed.
I never sealed them.
How bout if you plug em with an oil cooler and an atf cooler?
Good Idea? GM thought so...
Jim
Good Idea? GM thought so...
Jim
Ya I don't think that your going to find a Radiator w/o the coolers.
As far as Electrolosis is concerned: It's a real problem! We have tried every thing under the sun from addatives to running extra ground wires to overnight flushes. The only way I have found to help prevent heater and Radiator damage from Electrolosis is to add a Sacraficial Annode.
A piece of Zinc dropped into the Radiator seems to work well. Some people will say that the problem is still there and adding the Zinc just gives the Electrolosis something to eat instead of the Radiator and heater.
But I have seen a cooling system with .7v go down to .150v in 2 weeks just by adding a few Zinc Pennies to the cooling system. I just grind an edge off them to expose the Zinc.
As far as Electrolosis is concerned: It's a real problem! We have tried every thing under the sun from addatives to running extra ground wires to overnight flushes. The only way I have found to help prevent heater and Radiator damage from Electrolosis is to add a Sacraficial Annode.
A piece of Zinc dropped into the Radiator seems to work well. Some people will say that the problem is still there and adding the Zinc just gives the Electrolosis something to eat instead of the Radiator and heater.
But I have seen a cooling system with .7v go down to .150v in 2 weeks just by adding a few Zinc Pennies to the cooling system. I just grind an edge off them to expose the Zinc.
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