New tires, suspension now groans, creaks.

[simple_gifts]

Recently got (2) new CS4s mounted on the front of my !echo! and I had the tire place move the old fronts (Altimax) to the rear. Seems now i get a bit of popping/groaning noise from what might be the suspension; it occurs more when the car has sat and I think diminishes as I drive the car. It occurs not only when the weight of the vehicle switches side to side, but also straight on over choppy pavement. It alos occurs if I slowly let the clutch out.

Details
2003 Echo, 255K, 5sp.
New tires are 195/60/R15; the tire place installed 1 size bigger and didn't tell me; my eagle eye detected this.
Car was not put on a lift, was lifted @ ground level by 4 hyd jacks simultaneously.

Any chance having the car off the ground which is hasn't been in years, aggrevated a worn suspension system? Any other ideas? Thanks

-Thomas.

 

[Drew99GT]

Did you check tire pressures? Whenever I get a car back from ANY tire place, the tires are usually at 40+ psi when they should be more towards 30.

 

[oggb]

Trying spraying your struts down with lithium grease spray lube or something similar. My WRX had this problem after getting tires installed.

Edit: I'm talking about the rod inside the boot, not the rubber outside dust protector/boot thing.

 

[Scorch]

Had this same thing come and go on new struts and old, pin pointing the squeak/groan is the hardest part. The noise only shows up for me on very hot days like this last week (90+) Something to worry about? I would say probably not, if it bothers you that much, have it checked out.

 

[eljefino]

Could be you got a bushing tweaked when the car was in the air, and it was in an unusual position.

Give it time, it could wear to a point where it stops making noise.

Though popping and groaning is more of a ball joint thing than a bushing one, might be time for a checkup.

 

[simple_gifts]

I think I need to hold off until it starts to worsen. I only hear it a few times each drive and I can't reproduce in the driveway. Seems this morning I rolled down the street with the engine off and there was a sound like balls in a can but not constant; maybe CV not sure yet.

Thanks for the input.

 

[simple_gifts]

Little update, I spent this morning grinding off the old steering stabilizer links. Seems to be the only very poorly designed component on the vehicle. Most of one side was gone and the link just broke when I put some torque on it, lots of signs of abrasion on the shaft. I'm thinking this might be the source.

Probably will be opening a thread on how to install the replacements....

 

[mechtech2]

Sway bar end link kits are cheap, and ridiculously easy to install.
I don't try to unscrew the old ones.
A quick cut, and it's
out in less than a minute!

 

[simple_gifts]

Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Sway bar end link kits are cheap, and ridiculously easy to install.
I don't try to unscrew the old ones.
A quick cut, and it's
out in less than a minute!


No such luck for me. 4" grinder and the factory ones had press fit spacer so there was a lot of delicate grinding involved.

Any advice on installing the new ones?

Should the suspension be hanging for ease of install or can the car be on the ground?

 

[LeakySeals]

Go check the lug nuts! Most respectable tire places want the cars back to check. The rim can settle on the lugs and require additional tightening.

 

[simple_gifts]

Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Go check the lug nuts! Most respectable tire places want the cars back to check. The rim can settle on the lugs and require additional tightening.


Checked that! This morning I installed the new sway bar links and all the noise has disappeared.

Also noticed an axle seal leak..... 8(

 

[wander2039]

May just need a few days to re-settle. I put a new axle and bushings in the front of the Aspire and now I have a creak when it's cold only when turning. I think if I put my grease needle on the gun and put a little on the rack might fix it as it did with the Festiva. Can't win for loosing..

 

[mechtech2]

If your turn the wheels to one side, generally you can get to the sway bar links to tighten them on the ground.
This is preferred.
If parts are FACTORY
stock, they give you a thread count so you know how much to tighten them. They give a small range of thread counts. You can do this in the air , of course.
But this is only for factory parts! It may not apply to aftermarket ones!

You may want to upgrade to urethane bushings. They are harder and are more initially responsive - a nice feel for flat cornering and transients. Lube urethane, and leave rubber dry.
Tighten rubber until it squishes even with the washers.
Urethane is different - you can't squish it out nearly as much, so don't try.

And for anyone else, a hacksaw [sometimes put the blade on upside down or install it around the link] will cut a sway bar link fast.

 

[simple_gifts]

The aftermarket MOOG ones are much better designed than the Toyota OEM. The shaft is larger diameter and the retainers are thicker and designed to "contain" the rubber bushings. The Toyota ones seemed to be designed to create the maximum amount of deformation to the bushings, they basically fell apart. I put a wrench to one of the nuts and twisted the link shaft into two with very little effort.

The box says "Made in USA" but they way info is spun these days, it could be just referring to the box.