Trailer lights - there's got to be a better way

[cchase]

Originally Posted By: grampi
Originally Posted By: cchase
Originally Posted By: grampi
I just ordered a LED light kit. Chasing electrical gremlins can be time consuming and I don't have time to mess with it.


If they are indeed electrical gremlins as I (and others) suspect they are, you'll just blow the LED's.


I think the electrical gremlins are isolated to the trailer wiring, so replacing the entire wiring kit should cure the problem. I don't have any electrical problems with the vehicle.


Good enough, I assumed when you mentioned an LED kit that it only included the lights themselves. If they include the complete wiring you should be able to rule out the trailer wiring as the source of the problem.

Just make sure any spots on the trailer where wires enter or exit the frame rails that there are no sharp edges where the wires can fray.

 

[edwardh1]

China guys are really smart.
you buy it , it breaks, you buy another one, it breaks, you buy another ,,,,,,,
they make a lot o

 

[grampi]

Originally Posted By: edwardh1
China guys are really smart.
you buy it , it breaks, you buy another one, it breaks, you buy another ,,,,,,,
they make a lot o


Have you tried buying something lately that isn't made in China? Or worse yet, something that's made in the USA? It's almost impossible!

 

[grampi]

Originally Posted By: cchase
Originally Posted By: grampi
Originally Posted By: cchase
Originally Posted By: grampi
I just ordered a LED light kit. Chasing electrical gremlins can be time consuming and I don't have time to mess with it.


If they are indeed electrical gremlins as I (and others) suspect they are, you'll just blow the LED's.


I think the electrical gremlins are isolated to the trailer wiring, so replacing the entire wiring kit should cure the problem. I don't have any electrical problems with the vehicle.


Good enough, I assumed when you mentioned an LED kit that it only included the lights themselves. If they include the complete wiring you should be able to rule out the trailer wiring as the source of the problem.

Just make sure any spots on the trailer where wires enter or exit the frame rails that there are no sharp edges where the wires can fray.


On the trailer I have, the wiring runs totally on the outside of the frame.

 

[Ken2]

Originally Posted By: Dave Sherman
Originally Posted By: Donald
Along a relevant line, can someone explain how electric brakes work on a say 8000 trailer. I assume the trailer has a battery? I know how the surge brakes work on my boat trailer. Thats if they worked.


Electric brakes need a signal from the tow vehicle, which is provided by a brake controller. A few trucks offer trailer brake controllers as part of a towing package, but usually it's a separate box that has to be installed in the tow vehicle. It puts out a signal that varies with how hard you are braking, and you have an adjustment that sets how hard the brakes in the trailer are applied. That signal energizes the electromagnets in the hubs, which pull a small brake shoe against the flat side of the brake drum, and the friction against the rotating brake drum pulls on an arm which forces the brake shoes into the drum. There's usually a breakaway switch with a lanyard and a battery to energize the brakes if the trailer parts ways, but the power for normal braking comes from the brake controller.
Good description. A couple of details:
The ONLY type of trailer brake controller to buy are the proportional types. Avoid the time-based controllers what give more braking the longer you're on the brakes. Also avoid the archaic pendulum controllers that require leveling adjustments as you drive. Just about every electric trailer brake is NOT self adjusting. They require manual adjustment. And, due to being parked for so long, it is very prudent to open them yearly and clean out the rust and dirt. I never use the chassis for the ground circuit. Use at least #12 wire for both hot and negative circuits all the way from the brakes through the 7-pin connector and back to the battery negative post. Brakes are too important to rely on chassis ground connections. Never use wire nuts for connections. Either solder & heat shrink tubing or properly attached crimp connectors work well. Check both your state law for what weight trailer requires brakes, and check your tow vehicle owner's manual or towing guide. Some tow vehicles require trailer brakes at lower trailer weights than the state law requires.

 

[spasm3]

Originally Posted By: Ken2
Originally Posted By: Dave Sherman
Originally Posted By: Donald
Along a relevant line, can someone explain how electric brakes work on a say 8000 trailer. I assume the trailer has a battery? I know how the surge brakes work on my boat trailer. Thats if they worked.


Electric brakes need a signal from the tow vehicle, which is provided by a brake controller. A few trucks offer trailer brake controllers as part of a towing package, but usually it's a separate box that has to be installed in the tow vehicle. It puts out a signal that varies with how hard you are braking, and you have an adjustment that sets how hard the brakes in the trailer are applied. That signal energizes the electromagnets in the hubs, which pull a small brake shoe against the flat side of the brake drum, and the friction against the rotating brake drum pulls on an arm which forces the brake shoes into the drum. There's usually a breakaway switch with a lanyard and a battery to energize the brakes if the trailer parts ways, but the power for normal braking comes from the brake controller.
Good description. A couple of details:
The ONLY type of trailer brake controller to buy are the proportional types. Avoid the time-based controllers what give more braking the longer you're on the brakes. Also avoid the archaic pendulum controllers that require leveling adjustments as you drive. Just about every electric trailer brake is NOT self adjusting. They require manual adjustment. And, due to being parked for so long, it is very prudent to open them yearly and clean out the rust and dirt. I never use the chassis for the ground circuit. Use at least #12 wire for both hot and negative circuits all the way from the brakes through the 7-pin connector and back to the battery negative post. Brakes are too important to rely on chassis ground connections. Never use wire nuts for connections. Either solder & heat shrink tubing or properly attached crimp connectors work well. Check both your state law for what weight trailer requires brakes, and check your tow vehicle owner's manual or towing guide. Some tow vehicles require trailer brakes at lower trailer weights than the state law requires.


+1
I'm running a prodigy with my travel trailer, once adusted, it works great! slow stops or fast stops, its consistant. Timed brake controllers are 70's technology.