Supertech Oil Filters?

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Hey guys on my wifes 2006 Nissan Altima I always use the Wix oil filter and the Valvoline Maxlife 5-30. These filters are getting so crazy high I was wondering if the walmart supertech were good enough to trust on her Altima? Walmart changes her oil usually and we pay around $9 for the wix then $40 for the service with that oil and they credit like $2 for the filter. If these filters are decent I will just start getting them instead. Thanks!

I change the oil between 3000 and 4000 miles every time.
 
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Originally Posted By: JustinH
When walmart changes the oil they usually use a bulk fram filter, not a retail boxed supertech.

Supertech filters are usually fine.


I've never had a problem. For my Ford I pay a buck extra for Motorcraft
 
Once upon a time, and a bit less in recent history... I have cut open many, many oil filters and it is my opinion that the SuperTech is a better construction, cheaper, and has at least as much and sometimes more filtering media than the Fram oil filters.

I would take the SuperTech filter over the Fram any day.

By the way, the Motorcraft filters are currently made by Purolator and are roughly equivalent to the "Classic". I am also a fan of the Motorcraft filters.

However, it's interesting to note that, in all of the used oil analysis(s) that I've studied over the years, the brand of filter seems to made no difference.
 
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Three reasons I don't like an ecore filter design:

1) Open plastic cage that increased risk of media blow-out.
2) Dual function combo ADBV/bypass valve (reliable functionality questionable).
3) Non-metal end caps.
 
After cutting open a few SuperTech ST3600's and viewing pleats along the seam like this:

st5.JPG


I would probably run a Fram first. (Probably) That's a fine line, though.

The shorter filters may be less susceptible to the failures that can happen after the pleats fold over like they did in that picture.. but none the less, if I'm going to buy another e-core, I'm going to visually inspect the media from the center tube for tight pleats all around. Fortunately, with the large holes in the center tube, inspecting the media before purchase isn't hard to do..
 
As the OP's car is an 06 Altima, the ST here won't be an ecore. It calls for the shorty 6607 but the longer ST7317 should fit just fine. With 3-4K OCI's the ST7317 should be ok.

That said, it's no media area leader. Without removing the media using the 2x pleat count x depth x width method I got 67.5" square. As said though, 3-4k it's should be fine. Here's some pics of a ST7317, from back when Champ was having an issue with the centertube stamping, which has since been corrected.

With all the current deals/rebates on P1, with lots more media, that would be my first choice here. But, that's just me.
ST7317004.jpg

ST7317003.jpg
 
Originally Posted By: Honda2003
Thanks for the reply. If they put a fram on my car they will change it immediately.


If you're changing it every 3K -4K, why would it matter if it's a Fram or not. Are you afraid that it might cause harm to your engine? The basic Fram is not that much different than the ST.
 
Ive used ST before, ran fine at a 3.5k Interval, Oil was fairly worn, Used it with QSHM, first OC i ever did on my truck myself. After watching Youtube videos, Im set on not using a little orange can named Fram, and spend the extra 50cents and get a Purolator Classic or the extra dollar and getting a Bosch.

Dads old GMC Sierra '81 used STP filters and Peak oil for the longest time and ran fine until that old 350 just couldnt cut it without MMO or Slick 50 (the thing also had 600k miles on it, well the gauge quit working for some reason at 600k miles) it eventually was scrapped when I got my truck. If a Fram filter works for you use it. Fighting over what filter is better is akin to whos better Ford, Chevy or Chrysler, its all what you want it to be go with it.

I avoid Fram where as other people avoid anything not Fram.
to me its the same as protecting your engine with a roll of toilet paper, except Charmin Quilted may be better made
laugh.gif



(note: for the record, I dont reccomend MMO, Lucas, or Slick 50, but hey the truck didnt knock as hard or run as rough with it, so it worked somewhat)
 
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No I just choose not to use fram. Not telling anyone else not to but just my preference. My grandpa and uncle been a mechanic for over 40yrs and they have always told me not to ever use them if I could avoid it.
 
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
Three reasons I don't like an ecore filter design:

1) Open plastic cage that increased risk of media blow-out.
2) Dual function combo ADBV/bypass valve (reliable functionality questionable).
3) Non-metal end caps.


The open cage design is less restrictive for oil flow over a conventional metal center tube with it's small holes or louvers. I have seen conventional filters who's media had holes blown through the tiny center tube holes. In normal service this isn't going to happen of course. I think the nylon cage is the best design feature of the Ecore.

The ADBV/bypass valve, depending on mounting location, can become loaded with contaminant allowing for the valve to be propped open at all times.

The Ecore end cap's at times are not secured to the media, blame quality control for that. Of what value is a metal end cap and the glue that holds it in place? Just takes up space that could otherwise be used for filtering.

There are no low cost Champ made filters with silicone ADBV's, Ecore or otherwise.
 
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
3) Non-metal end caps.


For 3-4K OCI what's the advantage of a metal end caps? Have we seen a failure of non-metal endcaps?
 
The ST7317 is a stout "conventional" filter (meaning not e-core) with a decent amount of media, and a dome bypass. I've used many of them on bikes and cars with not one failure. Currently I have one on both Nissans I service (Versa and X-Terra) and a couple more in reserve. I've run them on Honda bikes, and Suzuki's too to replace their odd thread size with a new center stud from Bales.
 
Originally Posted By: TurboJim
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
Three reasons I don't like an ecore filter design:

1) Open plastic cage that increased risk of media blow-out.
2) Dual function combo ADBV/bypass valve (reliable functionality questionable).
3) Non-metal end caps.


The open cage design is less restrictive for oil flow over a conventional metal center tube with it's small holes or louvers. I have seen conventional filters who's media had holes blown through the tiny center tube holes. In normal service this isn't going to happen of course. I think the nylon cage is the best design feature of the Ecore.


I wouldn't agree that the nylon cage is the best design feature, as it's just too wide open and doesn't provide enough media support for my taste, and the main reason the media can potentially blow through it.

As far as the open cage providing less flow restriction ... in theory yes, but I doubt you could hardly measure the difference in the test laboratory. The media itself contributes the largest percentage of restriction in a filter's overall/total restriction. When a PureOne can flow 12 GPM of hot oil and only have a total of 5 PSID pressure drop, then I'd say the conventional metal center tube with lots of small holes is flowing pretty well.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...451#Post1619451

I agree with your point about the combo valve not being ideal.

But personally I like metal end caps because: 1) they don't distort thereby insuring the ABDV seals well around the center tube area, and 2) the pleats are glued in very securely insuring no oil leaks past the filtering media. Metal end caps really don't take up much real estate in the filter IMO.
 
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