Delo 400 LE Synthetic 5w40

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I've been debating what oil to use in my car: QSUD 5w40 isn't available in my area and was going to experiment with Delo 400 Synthetic 0w30 but found it's not available in the quantity I want. I know many people use Rotella T6 with great success (I'm currently doing an Auto-RX cycle using Rotella T5), but I've always been one to try something different. Is anyone currently running Delo 400 LS Synthetic 5w40? How does it compare to T6?

Delo 400 LE Syn 5w40:
https://cglapps.chevron.com/msdspds/PDSDetailPage.aspx?docDataId=324992&docFormat=PDF

Rotella T6:
http://www.epc.shell.com/Docs/GSAP_msds_00051969.PDF

Right now I'm debating between using the Delo 5w40 or Chevron Supreme Synthetic 5w40 ( https://cglapps.chevron.com/msdspds/PDSDetailPage.aspx?docDataId=313625&docFormat=PDF ).

I figured you HDEO guys might have some insight and experience with the Delo.
 
Just checked the local Costco Business Center (luckily my dad has a membership!) and they have the Delo 5w40 for under $20 for a gallon. I think that settles my debate!
 
In regards to Delo 400 Synthetic, what type of OCI should I run? I usually do 5,000 mi./1 year and would be running it in my Saab with a Napa Gold filter.

I have all the service records from the previous owner (as was the original owner) and it was given oil changes at a independent Euro garage with conventional 5w30/10w30 oil. It had the top end of the engine rebuilt a few years ago (I bought it in April of this year) and I called the shop who regularly worked on it and they remembered the car well and said it looked clean when they did the repairs. Along with my Auto-RX cycle, I'm planning that my HDEO usage will continue to keep it nice and clean!

I'm also thinking about doing a VOA on the Delo and then a UOA at 5,000 miles to see how the oil is how my engine is doing and how the oil is holding up (to see how long I can run it).
 
Delo products are in line with other recognizable HDEOs; that is to say they are excellent and will do (nearly) any job you put them to.

My question to you: do you "need" synthetics, or do you just "want" synthetics? We know practically nothing of your vehicle, use, environment, maintenance plan, etc. (OK - it's an older Saab, but what of it's HISTORY?).
 
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Originally Posted By: GoalieFergy53
Just checked the local Costco Business Center (luckily my dad has a membership!) and they have the Delo 5w40 for under $20 for a gallon. I think that settles my debate!
Is the Costco Business center different than a Costco store? I don't believe my local Costco store carries Delo 5W-40.
 
Originally Posted By: dnewton3
Delo products are in line with other recognizable HDEOs; that is to say they are excellent and will do (nearly) any job you put them to.

My question to you: do you "need" synthetics, or do you just "want" synthetics? We know practically nothing of your vehicle, use, environment, maintenance plan, etc. (OK - it's an older Saab, but what of it's HISTORY?).


In regards to "needing" synthetics, that's all 5w40 comes in, and that is what the vast majority of Saab owners run (I used to run Mobil1 0w40 in my old 1995 900SE Turbo). Fortunately my car has a well documented history! Bought this year in April with around 99,500 miles on it and has paperwork for everything (including original import sheet). Original had owner didn't have set OCI's, but the oul was changed regularly with conventional 5w30 or 10w30 oil. About 2 years ago the car had the top end of the engine rebuilt (thanks to a leaky head gasket). I called the shop after I bought it (they did many of the repairs and oil changes and remember the car amazingly well, because of it being in such good condition!) and I asked if they noticed any sludging when they did the head gasket. They said it didn't have any sludge at all.

Since I bought it, I've run Rotella T5 and have done an Auto-RX cycle just as a precautionary measure. I've also replaced PCV system parts and vacuum lines, new fuel filter and cleaned other parts (AIC, Evap Purge valve) and repaired the exhaust (intermediate flexpipe was blown out). I'm at about 103,000 miles now and want to continue running an HDEO as to help it live a long, happy life. Any drive I take brings it up to temperature, thanks to me living in a non-centralized area, and usually have at least 3 20+ mile drives per week (1 one with a 30 minute jaunt on the freeway to and back and the others are all highway driving). I live in the Seattle area, so the environment is a combination of sun, rain and this coming winter snow. Previously the car spent the majority of its life in Portland, so the environment wasn't much different (car has no rusting issues at this stage of the game!)
 
Just got back from Costco Business Center. Can't beat $18.39/gal.! Definitely the place to look for Chevron oils (if yours stocks them!) They had Supreme conventional in 5w30 & 10w30 12qt/case, Supreme Synthetic 10w30 6qt/case, MD-3 ATF, Delo 400 LE 15w40 & 5w40, they also carried PYB in multiple weights and PYB ATF.

delo_400_oil001.jpg

delo_400_oil004.jpg

delo_400_oil002.jpg

delo_400_oil003.jpg
 
Originally Posted By: GoalieFergy53
Originally Posted By: dnewton3
Delo products are in line with other recognizable HDEOs; that is to say they are excellent and will do (nearly) any job you put them to.

My question to you: do you "need" synthetics, or do you just "want" synthetics? We know practically nothing of your vehicle, use, environment, maintenance plan, etc. (OK - it's an older Saab, but what of it's HISTORY?).


In regards to "needing" synthetics, that's all 5w40 comes in, and that is what the vast majority of Saab owners run (I used to run Mobil1 0w40 in my old 1995 900SE Turbo). Fortunately my car has a well documented history! Bought this year in April with around 99,500 miles on it and has paperwork for everything (including original import sheet). Original had owner didn't have set OCI's, but the oul was changed regularly with conventional 5w30 or 10w30 oil. About 2 years ago the car had the top end of the engine rebuilt (thanks to a leaky head gasket). I called the shop after I bought it (they did many of the repairs and oil changes and remember the car amazingly well, because of it being in such good condition!) and I asked if they noticed any sludging when they did the head gasket. They said it didn't have any sludge at all.

Since I bought it, I've run Rotella T5 and have done an Auto-RX cycle just as a precautionary measure. I've also replaced PCV system parts and vacuum lines, new fuel filter and cleaned other parts (AIC, Evap Purge valve) and repaired the exhaust (intermediate flexpipe was blown out). I'm at about 103,000 miles now and want to continue running an HDEO as to help it live a long, happy life. Any drive I take brings it up to temperature, thanks to me living in a non-centralized area, and usually have at least 3 20+ mile drives per week (1 one with a 30 minute jaunt on the freeway to and back and the others are all highway driving). I live in the Seattle area, so the environment is a combination of sun, rain and this coming winter snow. Previously the car spent the majority of its life in Portland, so the environment wasn't much different (car has no rusting issues at this stage of the game!)



That's interesting, but not one bit of it convinces me you "need" synthetic oil. I am going to challenge you (in a friendly way) to convince me you "need" synthetics.

"In regards to "needing" synthetics, that's all 5w40 comes in". I'm aware of that; why do you "need" 5w-40? Why do you suddenly "need" a thick 40 grade ?

"Original had owner didn't have set OCI's, but the oul was changed regularly with conventional 5w30 or 10w30 oil. ... and I asked if they noticed any sludging when they did the head gasket. They said it didn't have any sludge at all." Clearly dino oil keep the engine in good clean condition, with a "normal" viscosity and not needing a thick 40 grade or syn.

There are two good reasons to run synthetics:
1) extended OCIs
2) extreme cold start (and I mean booty-ugly e-x-t-r-e-m-e cold)

Your environment does not call for synthetics. Your use-factor is not severe, so synthetics are not "needed". Does your maintenance plan include greatly extended OCIs?

You bought a used car that had good typical "normal" use, "normal" service with "normal" products. You've put approximately 4k miles on it, and you decided it "needs" synthetic HDEO for some reason? That is exactly my point; you want them, but you don't need them. You have shown me nothing to convince me that you "need" synthetics. Your own statements are evidence; previous owner runs 99k miles on dino oils, and the top end rebuild had nothing to do with lube related problems and was clean inside. Your own declaration of use isn't severe, nor is your weather.

Do you have any UOAs from the previous owner to suggest that his maintenance plan was somehow deficient?

If you were to tell me "Dave, I'm intending to do 15k-25k mile OCIs with UOAs along the way" then I'd agree with your choice. But right now, I see no "need"; only "want".

I'm not picking on you, but I see that you're likely caught up in the common mythology that infers "if some is good, more is better". If OIL is good, then SYN OIL must be "better" for all things and all conditions. Nothing could be further from the truth. Yes - there are some applications where syn's are clearly the better choice. But nothing you've told me so far points to that conclusion.

If you want syn's because it makes you sleep better at night, then by all means do what pleases you. But your car is likely not going to be protected any "better", just because you sleep "better".
 
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A naturally aspirated gasoline engine running 5000-mile OCI's does not need synthetic HDEO. Something like Valvoline MaxLife or Mobil 5000 HM blends in 5w30 weight sounds good enough for your application.
 
That is a really, really nice find, thanks for posting pics!

It's nice to know this oil does actually exist in physical form, b/c at times it seems like it is a 'mythical' product!

Back in the 1970's, when cold-weather synthetics were just being developed, Chevron came out with their 'sub zero fluid', which was a PAO-based 0W-30 synthetic. It was used by companies helping to develop North Shore oil, and the required pipeline. The modern Delo 0W-30 synthetic is a direct descendant of that oil, as it is still a PAO-based 0W-30.

This oil was designed for use up north, and saw succesfful use there. I'm sure that is why it is not really seen lower than the Artic circle - it was designed for industrial equipment up north, it was successful there, so it stayed there! No need to 'bring it down' for that warmer mainland!
 
The main reason for 5w40 use is Saabs are known for low oil pressure issues when using Xw30 weight oils. The turbo cars (like my first Saab) are also hard on the oil, so that's another reason why most Saab guys recommend synthetic Xw40. I just have quick lube & euro garage receipts from the previous owner, they never did UOA. Oh and I'm also running new spark plugs.

I've been using Rotella T5 as my "fleet" oil: use in my mom's 2005 3.8V6 Grand Caravan [that only gets short trips and needs top off's (no visible leaks or evidence of oil burning from exhaust, just changed the PCV valve with no change], my brother's 2003 2.7l Sebring [a known sludge monster and his car has shown evidence of sludging(Sebring owners warn the 2.7l NEEDS synthetic changes @ 3,000 miles to help minimize sludging) he now takes it to quick lubes every 6k-10k to get Xw30 conventional changes....], my dad's 2000 4.0l Ranger (didn't know the history of the OCI's, so better safe than sorry), I used it in my 2006 4.2L F-150 up until I sold it and if I don't sell my E350 7.5l bus, I'll either use T5 or if I can find them Delo 10w30 dino or Rotella T Triple protection 10w30.

My Saab seems to be running great on Rotella T5, so my issue isn't with the oil. I chose to run the Delo Syn 5w40 next for a few reasons:

1. I want to see how it runs on 40wt (if it feels sluggish and has too noticeable mpg loss, I'll decide to go back to 30wt). If I return to 30wt, I'll see if I can find the Rotella or Delo dino 10w30 to use in it and my bus.

2. Rotella T5 is around $4~$5/qt when I buy a gallon of it at Wally World. The Delo Syn 5w40 was $18.39/gal, so for a little more than the Rotella, I was able to get a full synthetic.

3. I usually run Rotella T5 5,000 miles (depending on oil consumption) and want to try extended OCI's in my Saab (will run the Delo 5k and get an analysis to see how much further it can go).

4. I've always been one to be different (I'm a hockey goalie after all!), so since Delo 5w40 is so rare and has not had much recent data, I can be the guinea pig for the VOA and UOA data. Do you got a problem with that?! :p
 
Geez...I might take a swing by my local costco and see if they have Del 5w40. $18 is a great price for a good 5w40 like that. My local jobber was like 28 a gallon. Ugh!
 
Originally Posted By: addyguy
It's nice to know this oil does actually exist in physical form, b/c at times it seems like it is a 'mythical' product!


We even get the 5 gallon pails of it out here.
wink.gif
 
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