First time I saw them jacking with a heavy manual shop hydrolic jack thought it was a fluke. Now I see that more at different locations. Used to be a good shop. Prices were elevated, but with a good added value. Not any more the good old Les Schwab.
Les Schwab: Jacking Rear Differential
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"Prices were elevated, but with a good added value"
LS may have had a good reputation in years past (judging by the average age of their clientele) But in my book, their work is on a par with your average Jiffy Lube. (but at sky high prices)
LS may have had a good reputation in years past (judging by the average age of their clientele) But in my book, their work is on a par with your average Jiffy Lube. (but at sky high prices)
This is going to sound like a dumb question I think, but is it a bad idea to jack on the differential pumpkin?
Originally Posted By: Nick R
This is going to sound like a dumb question I think, but is it a bad idea to jack on the differential pumpkin?
If its a solid-axle car or truck with an iron pumpkin, no problem at all, I've done that and seen that done for 40 years. I sure wouldn't do it to a modern independent rear suspension car with an aluminum diff housing, though.
This is going to sound like a dumb question I think, but is it a bad idea to jack on the differential pumpkin?
If its a solid-axle car or truck with an iron pumpkin, no problem at all, I've done that and seen that done for 40 years. I sure wouldn't do it to a modern independent rear suspension car with an aluminum diff housing, though.
Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
Originally Posted By: Nick R
This is going to sound like a dumb question I think, but is it a bad idea to jack on the differential pumpkin?
If its a solid-axle car or truck with an iron pumpkin, no problem at all, I've done that and seen that done for 40 years. I sure wouldn't do it to a modern independent rear suspension car with an aluminum diff housing, though.
Alright, I was worried for a second that we had been doing it wrong the whole time we owned the jeep.
Originally Posted By: Nick R
This is going to sound like a dumb question I think, but is it a bad idea to jack on the differential pumpkin?
If its a solid-axle car or truck with an iron pumpkin, no problem at all, I've done that and seen that done for 40 years. I sure wouldn't do it to a modern independent rear suspension car with an aluminum diff housing, though.
Alright, I was worried for a second that we had been doing it wrong the whole time we owned the jeep.
Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
Originally Posted By: Nick R
This is going to sound like a dumb question I think, but is it a bad idea to jack on the differential pumpkin?
If its a solid-axle car or truck with an iron pumpkin, no problem at all, I've done that and seen that done for 40 years. I sure wouldn't do it to a modern independent rear suspension car with an aluminum diff housing, though.
My 2008 Mazda Miata MX-5 is an independant rear suspension, rear wheel drive car. The owners manual specifically lists the rear differential as a designated jacking point for lifting the rear end.
Originally Posted By: Nick R
This is going to sound like a dumb question I think, but is it a bad idea to jack on the differential pumpkin?
If its a solid-axle car or truck with an iron pumpkin, no problem at all, I've done that and seen that done for 40 years. I sure wouldn't do it to a modern independent rear suspension car with an aluminum diff housing, though.
My 2008 Mazda Miata MX-5 is an independant rear suspension, rear wheel drive car. The owners manual specifically lists the rear differential as a designated jacking point for lifting the rear end.
Originally Posted By: Nick R
This is going to sound like a dumb question I think, but is it a bad idea to jack on the differential pumpkin?
I personally don't think it is a problem. I've been jacking up my trucks like that for years, never once had an issue.
This is going to sound like a dumb question I think, but is it a bad idea to jack on the differential pumpkin?
I personally don't think it is a problem. I've been jacking up my trucks like that for years, never once had an issue.
I lifted tractor trailer trucks off the ground with floor jacks using their diffs. Definitely not a problem on the majority of vehicles if not all.
Originally Posted By: Sluggo0018
Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
Originally Posted By: Nick R
This is going to sound like a dumb question I think, but is it a bad idea to jack on the differential pumpkin?
If its a solid-axle car or truck with an iron pumpkin, no problem at all, I've done that and seen that done for 40 years. I sure wouldn't do it to a modern independent rear suspension car with an aluminum diff housing, though.
My 2008 Mazda Miata MX-5 is an independant rear suspension, rear wheel drive car. The owners manual specifically lists the rear differential as a designated jacking point for lifting the rear end.
But is it an alloy center section/'pumpkin'??
Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
Originally Posted By: Nick R
This is going to sound like a dumb question I think, but is it a bad idea to jack on the differential pumpkin?
If its a solid-axle car or truck with an iron pumpkin, no problem at all, I've done that and seen that done for 40 years. I sure wouldn't do it to a modern independent rear suspension car with an aluminum diff housing, though.
My 2008 Mazda Miata MX-5 is an independant rear suspension, rear wheel drive car. The owners manual specifically lists the rear differential as a designated jacking point for lifting the rear end.
But is it an alloy center section/'pumpkin'??
On some vehicles if you lift under the pumpkin repeatedly a pinion seal leak may be more common, but I wouldn't worry about it personally.
Originally Posted By: Sluggo0018
......My 2008 Mazda Miata MX-5 is an independant rear suspension, rear wheel drive car. The owners manual specifically lists the rear differential as a designated jacking point for lifting the rear end.
Same advice in my owner's manual, for Subaru Legacy with IRS and iron diff case with aluminum cover.
......My 2008 Mazda Miata MX-5 is an independant rear suspension, rear wheel drive car. The owners manual specifically lists the rear differential as a designated jacking point for lifting the rear end.
Same advice in my owner's manual, for Subaru Legacy with IRS and iron diff case with aluminum cover.
Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
Originally Posted By: Nick R
This is going to sound like a dumb question I think, but is it a bad idea to jack on the differential pumpkin?
If its a solid-axle car or truck with an iron pumpkin, no problem at all, I've done that and seen that done for 40 years. I sure wouldn't do it to a modern independent rear suspension car with an aluminum diff housing, though.
I've done it for years too, solid axle RWD, no problems to report.
As far as Les Schwab goes, I won't go near one of their stores anymore. I got a quote from them for my son while visiting him on Whidbey Island. They wanted over $500 to do front brakes on his BMW, and insisted they replace the calipers and rotors. The calipers and rotors were fine, all I wanted was pads. We took it do the Hobby Shack at NAS Whidbey and in under an hour and less than $40 I did his brakes. They gave me a B-S story about their warranty. I told them I wasn't interested in the warranty all I wanted was pads. Their loss, a year later it cost them a tire sale.
Originally Posted By: Nick R
This is going to sound like a dumb question I think, but is it a bad idea to jack on the differential pumpkin?
If its a solid-axle car or truck with an iron pumpkin, no problem at all, I've done that and seen that done for 40 years. I sure wouldn't do it to a modern independent rear suspension car with an aluminum diff housing, though.
I've done it for years too, solid axle RWD, no problems to report.
As far as Les Schwab goes, I won't go near one of their stores anymore. I got a quote from them for my son while visiting him on Whidbey Island. They wanted over $500 to do front brakes on his BMW, and insisted they replace the calipers and rotors. The calipers and rotors were fine, all I wanted was pads. We took it do the Hobby Shack at NAS Whidbey and in under an hour and less than $40 I did his brakes. They gave me a B-S story about their warranty. I told them I wasn't interested in the warranty all I wanted was pads. Their loss, a year later it cost them a tire sale.
Yes, they do price themselves like they are a Bentley dealership nowadays. It is cheaper to get new set of tires for a Lexus LX570 at my Lexus dealer by $300+. It is sad to see this brand going like they are immune to reality. We shall see how it pans out in this economy.
I have a LS 1 block from my house, and the last time I went to them was 4 years ago. I bought new wheels and tires from them. 3000 miles later I decided to rotate the tires myself since their wait time was almost 2 hours due to a winter storm warning coming on. While trying to remove the wheels myself, 2 studs decided to start spinning in the hub instead of the lugs backing off. I drove down and waited my 2 hours. As I waited, I asked the manager why the studs would be stripped in the hubs. He says its usually due to over torqueing the lugs and gawling the threads. I then said "good thing you guys were the last ones to touch the wheels on this car, im sure you will get her fixed up right." (torquing with an impact is their normal practice) 3 hours later I have 2 dented and scratched wheels, and a bill for $104 for new wheel studs and labor to remove the old ones. They refused to back up their work or lack there of, and absolutely refused to replace the wheels. I made sure all 40+ customers in the lobby knew what they had did and how they were treating their loyal customers, and I hoped they had remembered that in their future decisions. Emails to their corporate offices did nothing. they magically had random signs show up in the front yard every couple days for a couple months after the incident, showing other customers that other customers were no pleased with their services. I hope I helped put a dent in their wallets just like they did to mine
Local Les Schwab couldn't do the alignment on my 04 Honda. Took'em two tries and they still couldn't get it right. Took it to a small independent place and for a fraction of the cost my alignment was done right.
With a cast iron pumpkin with a solid axle, this is the same as lifting it by the tires.
Just don't bend the cover plate or anything .
Just don't bend the cover plate or anything .
Originally Posted By: bdcardinal
On some vehicles if you lift under the pumpkin repeatedly a pinion seal leak may be more common, but I wouldn't worry about it personally.
Would a Ranger with a 7.5 be one of those vehicles with a problem? I had a rear tire patched this spring, and the truck was lifted by the diff. I'm not sure why, it seems like more work to lift the whole back of the truck to remove one tire. A month or so later, the pinion seal was weeping enough to leave an occasional drop on my driveway. Truck had ~42000 miles then, and had M1 75w90 in the diff since ~800 miles.
On some vehicles if you lift under the pumpkin repeatedly a pinion seal leak may be more common, but I wouldn't worry about it personally.
Would a Ranger with a 7.5 be one of those vehicles with a problem? I had a rear tire patched this spring, and the truck was lifted by the diff. I'm not sure why, it seems like more work to lift the whole back of the truck to remove one tire. A month or so later, the pinion seal was weeping enough to leave an occasional drop on my driveway. Truck had ~42000 miles then, and had M1 75w90 in the diff since ~800 miles.
Since lifting by the pumpkin is the same as by the tires, how could this cause a pinion leak?
Just coincidence.
Just coincidence.
From the Ford 2011 Mustang Service Manual...(cast iron differential)....
CAUTION: Never use the differential
housing as a lift point. Damage to the differential
housing and cover may occur.
CAUTION: Under no circumstances should
the vehicle ever be lifted by the suspension arm
brackets, rear stabilizer, differential housing or
convertible cross brace. Severe damage to the
vehicle could result.
CAUTION: Never use the differential
housing as a lift point. Damage to the differential
housing and cover may occur.
CAUTION: Under no circumstances should
the vehicle ever be lifted by the suspension arm
brackets, rear stabilizer, differential housing or
convertible cross brace. Severe damage to the
vehicle could result.
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