The switch from Honda ATF Z1 to DW-1.... issues.

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Originally Posted By: 2K5TSX
Originally Posted By: The_Eric
Originally Posted By: 229
You may have some tranny solenoids getting weak or need an PCU flash update. My 2008 had a factory update reprogramming.


Good suggestion with the re-flash.

Go back to the dealer and check for any re-flashes. If none are available, have them re-set the adaptives for the transmission and drive as you normally would after, so it can re-learn your driving habits.


I've done two battery resets since.. that resets the ECU and the transmission has to relearn shift points automatically as far as I know.

good point, not sure if Honda or Acura has updated AT software release after release DW1.
i did forgot to mention one point, while doing drain and fill with Maxlife, i notice the AT behave much better after 3rd drain and fill. the good feel with 1st drain and fill did not last very long. thanks!
 
Originally Posted By: Hokiefyd
I've changed 1/3 of my fluid out from Z-1 to the new DW-1 and the shifting has gotten smoother. Maybe it's just due to new fluid. Shifts are almost imperceptable now.

I have read that DW-1 is reported to make shifting firmer in colder temperatures, and the "solution" is to mix in some Z-1. I'm not sure how one is supposed to do that now that Z-1 is discontinued.
+1. Life is sooooo complicated for some. Dealer D and F and replace 4 quarts of Z1 with DW1. Tranny engages and shifts more smoothly.
 
Originally Posted By: benjamming
Flashing & battery disconnect are different. I'm not aware of being able to flash a factory programming update anywhere but the dealer.


There is no reflash for the 2005 TSX that I know of. Its been to the dealer multiple times and its never been mentioned as an option.
 
Originally Posted By: gogozy
i recalled reading somewhere that DW1 looks more similar to modern universal ATF than Z1, and has less FM compare to Z1. DW1 is full synthetic, and i wonder why your car would shift worse when fully warm up, is it because DW1 is thin or the fluid is still overfill?

i have a 04TSX, and it is using Maxlife now. the AT shift feel very different with the Maxlife. and i expect the DW1 will do the same. i don't think the vibration when idle is ATF related, probably engine mount like you said, you can check out the form on acurazine, 1st gen TSX problem and fix for a quick test/check.... and vibration while accelerating to 100km may be the same issue being report by that forum as well.
if you want to stay with Z1, there are some Z1 floating around kiji around GTA, i brought some coolant, PS fluid, and brake fluid from a guy and he has an amazing price on Z1 (but i did not buy any Z1). some Honda dealer around GTA still has Z1, and may sell you at amazing bulk price.


I spoke with one dealer that had Z1 stock, but it has since dried up.. Looking unlikely as an option. Can you describe how your tranny is different with the maxlife? Why did you decide to make the switch?
 
^ thats a good deal. my local acura dealership sells these quarts for 8-9 dollars a quart. this ebay sellers sells it for 7.5 a quart shipped!

12 quarts equals about 4+ drain and fills! it should get a very good fraction of the dw-1 out. i have an 06 tsx and its still on z1...maybe ill just stock up on plain oh z1
Originally Posted By: gogozy
HI 2K5TSX:
PM sent.

aww share how maxlife affected your shifting!
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Rand
its available mail order...
like ebay etc

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HONDA-ACU...=item3f0d11a46d


great find but they don't ship to Canada.
frown.gif


Left the car to sit for a week (drove our brand new Venza instead) and after a week the car drove beautifully.. shifted like new. How can leaving the car to sit for so long make a difference? Does the fluid change in consistency? Does it slowly evacuate out of the torque converter?

Why does it drive so nice in cool temps, and in the morning but much harder on the way home... its strange.
 
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I know you didn't ask but if it were mine I would change to Redline D4 or even Maxlife or Castrol Import MV, disconnect the battery for awhile (to clear the memory) and see what happens. If I didn't use the Redline D4 I'd add a bottle of Lubegard Red.
I don't believe Honda's ATFs are anything special...
 
Originally Posted By: pbm
I know you didn't ask but if it were mine I would change to Redline D4 or even Maxlife or Castrol Import MV, disconnect the battery for awhile (to clear the memory) and see what happens.
I don't believe Honda's ATFs are anything special...


Whats the standard practice to change to a non-honda fluid... drain and fill, lock up the torque converter on the highway then 2nd drain and fill.. etc etc.. or can I be mixing the two fluids over a longer period? Are all of those fluids compatible with the DW-1 I have in there right now?
 
Originally Posted By: Mau
Stick with DW-1 the firmer shifts will increase the life of your transmission.

But also look at replacing the pressure switches.


I read the thread about the pressure switches.. it appears the TSX has two as well. No mention of any TSX owners changing these up yet though... mostly if not all TL and some Element owners.
 
Originally Posted By: pbm
I know you didn't ask but if it were mine I would change to Redline D4 or even Maxlife or Castrol Import MV, disconnect the battery for awhile (to clear the memory) and see what happens. If I didn't use the Redline D4 I'd add a bottle of Lubegard Red.
I don't believe Honda's ATFs are anything special...
Thanks,but most of us with,Hondas feel we are better served with the prescribed Honda ATF.
 
Waiting 40K plus miles between ATF changes in a Honda will get you a premature tranny failure.

I have owned numerous Honda's and Acura's and also know 2 very good Honda mechanics. They have both told me, to be safe, you should change out the ATF every other oil change...
 
Originally Posted By: Boss302fan
Waiting 40K plus miles between ATF changes in a Honda will get you a premature tranny failure.

I have owned numerous Honda's and Acura's and also know 2 very good Honda mechanics. They have both told me, to be safe, you should change out the ATF every other oil change...


This is what I followed (maybe every 3rd oil change thoe... which usually ends up being around 21-25K km's)
 
? for y'all:

My g/f has a 2008 Acura TL (pretty sure it was bought end of '07) with ~68k miles. Easy commuting miles mostly. When it came up to 60k miles, I checked to see what needed to be done - did the cabin filter and held off on the ATF b/c it said that the maintenance light would come on when it was required. She's been using the OLM for oil changes w/ synthetic. She usually goes through cars quicker and will actually keep this one a couple more years (just put new tires on too). So in that vein (ie only needing to get another 50-60k miles out of it), I figure an ATF swap is the major service needed now, after reading up about Hondas and their ATX service.

I'm thinking of doing just a drain and refill with the DW-1, drive through all gears, get converter lockup, then repeat drain and fill two more times. Would this be sufficient to perform now and then forget about the ATF for another 60k (likely traded in by then)? Since I do not do the oil changes, the drain/fill every other one, isn't very practical.

Thoughts? ~9qts, right?
 
Originally Posted By: surfstar
? for y'all:

My g/f has a 2008 Acura TL (pretty sure it was bought end of '07) with ~68k miles. Easy commuting miles mostly. When it came up to 60k miles, I checked to see what needed to be done - did the cabin filter and held off on the ATF b/c it said that the maintenance light would come on when it was required. She's been using the OLM for oil changes w/ synthetic. She usually goes through cars quicker and will actually keep this one a couple more years (just put new tires on too). So in that vein (ie only needing to get another 50-60k miles out of it), I figure an ATF swap is the major service needed now, after reading up about Hondas and their ATX service.

I'm thinking of doing just a drain and refill with the DW-1, drive through all gears, get converter lockup, then repeat drain and fill two more times. Would this be sufficient to perform now and then forget about the ATF for another 60k (likely traded in by then)? Since I do not do the oil changes, the drain/fill every other one, isn't very practical.

Thoughts? ~9qts, right?


that will work perfectly. I'd also change out the pressure switches, search an acura forum and you will get results on how to do this and the part no's.
 
Replaced Z-1 in a 2010 Accord and 2008 CRV with Valvoline Longlife 75,000.


IN both cases the shifting was much smoother after.

The Accord V-6 gained 1 mpg hwy (from 31mpg to 32 mpg on a recent 1,000 miles trip.

Nothing special about Z-1 in my books.
 
Originally Posted By: Mau

that will work perfectly. I'd also change out the pressure switches, search an acura forum and you will get results on how to do this and the part no's.



Starting in 08 the TL has the larger transmission from the RL, which, to my knowledge, does not suffer from the sensor problem.
 
Originally Posted By: FZ1
Originally Posted By: pbm
I know you didn't ask but if it were mine I would change to Redline D4 or even Maxlife or Castrol Import MV, disconnect the battery for awhile (to clear the memory) and see what happens. If I didn't use the Redline D4 I'd add a bottle of Lubegard Red.
I don't believe Honda's ATFs are anything special...
Thanks,but most of us with,Hondas feel we are better served with the prescribed Honda ATF.



I disagree...I owned a Honda Accord with the problematic BAXA A/T and the concensus of most on the Accord forum was that Redline D4, Amsoil and even Maxlife were superior.
 
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