2008 G37 Coupe Recommendations

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Been away for a while, friends. Long story short, the Audi repairs have monopolized too much of my time, although it's dirt cheap to fix with OEM parts. I had no time to work on it, much less come here. So, it's resting and I picked up a 2008 G37 coupe with ~44,000 km.

OM recommends 5w-30 year round, SM/GF-4 or better. They recommend, but don't require, Nissan's Ester Oil, a grossly overpriced, underperforming conventional which makes boutique oils look like a bargain.

My climate ranges from over 100F in the summer to below -40F in the winter. It sees a mix of highway and city driving; however, the oil and coolant almost always come up to temperatures during driving, though not necessarily an extended period at operating temperatures. In winter, it will be stored in a heated garage. I don't drive it terribly hard, perhaps a little flog once in a while, but only when everything is nice and warm.

It calls for 3750 mile OCIs for severe service, into which category I undoubtedly fall. Some of you may be aware that these engines are notorious for shearing oil. I recall one UOA where M1 5w-30 was sheared way down in under 2,000 miles, and haters aside, M1 5w-30 is far from a substandard oil.

Those that know me also know I'm a "fan" of synthetics, but tend to use conventional oil, having run a fleet with combined mileage in the millions all on QS GB 10w-30 and Wix filters year round for many years, with no oil related failures.

I don't know what is speced for this engine around the world. Only U.S. and Canadian manuals are available online, and they are the same. Some of the G/Z forums have a few recommendations for a 40 weight or a heavy 30, with preferences for M1 0w-40 and GC. However, reading some of their posts, I'm surprised they didn't grouse about wax in PYB yet (or I missed that post).

I'm out of warranty, so am free to make my own choices, with your suggestions welcomed. I don't have the luxury of an oil pressure or oil temperature gauge in this thing, unlike the Audi, so that complicates matters. I also don't do UOAs, for better or for worse.

The Aussie subforum of one of the 370Z forums seems to indicate a lot of them there use 10w-30 or 5w-30, which I didn't quite expect. Doug Hillary: I'm looking at you! Have you heard anything?

When I got it, it was overfilled with Canadian Tire oil of some sort, with a Canadian Tire Fram filter. I replaced that with SM QS GB 10w-30 and a Wix.

In my stash, I still have a bunch of QS GB 10w-30 and 5w-30. I also have a boatload of Delvac 1300 15w-40. I don't see a problem with the 40 side of things, but not sure about the 15w side, even in the summer, with this vehicle. I can't say whether or not it consumes oil yet, either.

For synthetics, if I did have to go that route, Delvac 1 5w-40, M1 0w-40, GC, and RP (now in SN) are about the easiest and most cost effective for me to obtain, with 0w-40 possibly being the cheapest. I also wouldn't be averse to M1 5w-30 or RP 5w-30 year round. However, the shear is disconcerting, but we don't really seem to know how much of an issue the shear really is from a lubrication standpoint.

My first inclination is to stick with QS GB, with perhaps 10w-30 in the summer, hoping for more shear resistance, and 5w-30 in the winter, and just sticking to very conservative OCIs. Mobil 1000 conventional is also another option that is attractively priced here.

This car would also fall under QS GB's engine warranty, for what it's worth.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
 
What about Shell Rotella T6? If you're considering Delvac 1, consider T6 too.

I say pick GC, M1 0w40, etc, and give it a try. FWIW my dad has always run M1 5w30 in his G35 (81xxx and counting) and GC in his EX35 (11xxx and counting). Both cars seem to be doing just fine.
 
If it eats up oil like you have read then I would shy away from
conventional oils.
Maybe give Redline 5W-30 a try. You can order it from their web page if need be.

As far as weight goes I would stick with recommended and do a couple UOA's Then maybe experment with other oils.

Most if not all of the 0W-40's will contain thickner addatives.
Even the Redline 0W-40 does. But I have been told they will not shear.

Best of luck with your new toy and enjoy it
smile.gif
 
Originally Posted By: dparm
What about Shell Rotella T6? If you're considering Delvac 1, consider T6 too.

I say pick GC, M1 0w40, etc, and give it a try. FWIW my dad has always run M1 5w30 in his G35 (81xxx and counting) and GC in his EX35 (11xxx and counting). Both cars seem to be doing just fine.


Hmmm, T6 is another option that certainly slipped my mind. It, too, is rather attractively priced, all things considered. Last time I checked, it was cheaper than Delvac 1 or TDT.

To pick between GC and M1 0w-40, I have to see which one comes on sale first, unless my Oil Mart can get me 0w-40 at around $4 per litre like they promised. If I can get that product at that price, the debate is over.
wink.gif
 
Originally Posted By: Ken42
If it eats up oil like you have read then I would shy away from
conventional oils.
Maybe give Redline 5W-30 a try. You can order it from their web page if need be.

Best of luck with your new toy and enjoy it
smile.gif



Thanks for the comments. I've definitely heard going things about Redline's shear resistance. It may be a bit of a chore to find up here, though, but I'll definitely have to do some checking.
 
Oil change-
Originally Posted By: Garak

In my stash, I still have a bunch of QS GB 10w-30 and 5w-30.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.


Top up-
Originally Posted By: Garak
I also have a boatload of Delvac 1300 15w-40.


Just in case the M1 deal falls through.
 
The VQ37 is hard on oil, I don't think I'd run conventional in there unless you want to change very often.
 
Hi Garak,

You're way over thinking this.
Since I don't believe you'll be tracking the car there is no reason to go heavier than the recommended light 5W-30 oil, not in our climate.
Does the G37 come with an oil pressure gauge? If not it still might have an OP sensor so that you can use a scan tool.
With one I'd recommend considering using a 0W-20 for those bitter winters you get. The oil pressure check is to make sure it remains comfortably above the optimum minimum level when up to normal winter operating temp's.
 
Originally Posted By: dparm
The VQ37 is hard on oil, I don't think I'd run conventional in there unless you want to change very often.


I would agree. I do have some conventional to go through, and if I do rather short OCIs, particularly with the possibly more shear resistant 10w-30 I have in stock, I should be okay until I make a final decision.

Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
You're way over thinking this.
Since I don't believe you'll be tracking the car there is no reason to go heavier than the recommended light 5W-30 oil, not in our climate.
Does the G37 come with an oil pressure gauge? If not it still might have an OP sensor so that you can use a scan tool.
With one I'd recommend considering using a 0W-20 for those bitter winters you get. The oil pressure check is to make sure it remains comfortably above the optimum minimum level when up to normal winter operating temp's.


I was hoping to hear from you. Being the thin oil proponent you are, I definitely wanted to hear a counterpoint. You're right; I certainly won't be tracking the car. There is neither an oil pressure nor an oil temperature gauge. I'll be likely getting a ScanGaugeII, and see if oil pressure and/or temperature can be read that way.

What you've said here and in other posts does make sense. I do have the FSM so I might be able to track down where the oil pressure should be under specified conditions. If not, at least I could run a specified oil and see what I have as a baseline before doing any major experimentation.

I'm still not sold on 0w-20 oils, but by opinion on that is irrelevant until I can actually get a pressure and/or temperature reading on such an oil and compare it to a 5w-30. As for tracking, a lot of people talk about 40 weights. In defence of thin oil, they're forgetting one thing. Heavier oils do run hotter. That was very apparent in the Audi that had both an oil temperature and oil pressure gauge. These 3.7L engines heat up the oil. Perhaps heavier oils can take the heat better, but the ECM will toss you into limp mode if the oil gets too hot, and it doesn't care whether the oil is a 0w-20 or a 20w-50 - too hot is too hot, as far as it's concerned.

I'm definitely in a position to compare things. It'll be in a heated garage, so I don't have to worry about a cold start and I can get some pressure readings in the winter using some xw-30 oil. I can try the same using a 0w-20. If it doesn't work out, no harm done - I can go the other way.
 
Here's the thing:

Nissan doesn't specify that the engine requires synthetic oil for their VQ engine. Many many hundreds of thousands of VQ engines are driving around just fine on conventional 5W-30 oil, in all sorts of climates both similar and different to yours, and they aren't blowing up in any real numbers that you can blame the oil for the engine failure.

So the engine abuses the oil pretty badly in 3750 miles...
Just change it at that point. Even if you put in the best of the best of the best oil into the car, the engine will just chew it up and spit it out. nothing you can do to prevent that at all.

Just save the money, put in the conventional oil, and change it every 4k miles, or your kilometer equivalent. And if you want, use one of those oils that offers a "guarantee" that the engine won't fail because of the oil. With that engine, I would probably choose the Mobil Super, with its 5k mile or 6 month "guarantee", since all the others are pretty much forcing you to change every 3k miles, or 3 months, if your vehicle isn't under a manufacturers power train warranty.

BC.
 
Originally Posted By: Bladecutter
So the engine abuses the oil pretty badly in 3750 miles...
Just change it at that point. Even if you put in the best of the best of the best oil into the car, the engine will just chew it up and spit it out. nothing you can do to prevent that at all.


All quite valid. Apparently, the 3.7L is a fair bit harder on the oil than was the 3.5L because of the VVEL. Oh well. As you've pointed out, it has the potential to beat up synthetics just as nicely as conventional oil. It would be nice to figure out which oil takes its thrashing the best, though. I am not, however, about to try everything under the sun and run UOA after UOA chasing my own tail to find the "best" oil for the application. As you suggested, I'd much rather use a quality conventional and do it according to severe service intervals.
 
Well, I settled on SN/GF-5 5w-30 PYB. Contrary to my original thoughts, I still have powertrain warranty.

With reference to Bladecutter and the Mobil Super warranty, Mobil offers a slightly different warranty in Canada and still recommend to follow the OEM recommendations. In any case, with it being under warranty and my great, great reluctance about spending $10/litre on synthetic to change every 3750 miles, I narrowed it down to PYB, QS GB, and Mobil Super 1000.

CT currently has a special on Mobil Super 1000 at $14.89, but they have the stupid 4.5L bottles, when I need 4.9L. However, the Wholesale Club sells individual litres for around $3.69, which, when buying five bottles, beats any local store's price on a five litre jug at regular price. A local Walmart has a boatload of SN/GF-5 PYB in 4.73 L jugs for about a buck less than CT. So, I bought a bunch. As an aside, CT has Mobil 1 on "special" for $8.79 a litre (and there it's all old SM stock) and Edge for $11.19 a litre. Considering I can get RP cheaper than that, I laughed. My Mobil 1 deal at another local supplier seems to have fallen through. They don't seem to have a relationship with the Oil Mart supplier anymore. $4 per litre for M1 would have been very attractive, I must say.

PYB is a known, quality oil, and a special like that on SN/GF-5 is good by me.

As long as the PYB doesn't clog my filter with wax, causing the cardboard endplates to blow off and asplode my motor, I should be okay.
wink.gif
 
Originally Posted By: dparm
Buy in bulk...


Yes, it really is that expensive up here.
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There are exceptions, however. WM and CT do have better sales on various synthetics at times. I was poking fun at the CT sale on M1 since it's such a marginal saving. When they have sales on Syntec (like the last time I tried GC), they tend to be reasonable. Sales on the big jugs tend to be decent, too.

We do get some acceptable sale prices on both conventional and synthetic; I just ran into a good sale on PYB. The sales on synthetics tend to be more rare and more fleeting than those for conventional. If my crystal ball had been working at the time, I would have bought out our Walmarts' stocks of PU, since they were virtually giving it away and I haven't seen any since, either there or at CT. However, at the time, I had no use for the available weights of PU. We never get anything in the way of rebates, either.

Bulk is certainly an option, but being an agricultural area, getting HDEOs in bulk (synthetic or conventional) is far easier than getting PCMO in bulk. The Oil Mart fiasco here was not good timing, either. I tried to arrange them another local distributor, but none of the local parts distributors are interested in Oil Mart's business model.

In any case, I think the PYB will serve me well. For warranty purposes, I am tied to the manufacturer's recommended OCIs. PYB is an outstanding oil on its own, aside from any other considerations.

We all know I'm a big Mobil 1 fan. I am not, however, paying triple the price for oil unless I can triple the OCI. That's not going to happen under warranty and may not even be suitable for the 3.7L at the best of times.
 
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