Sealing/repairing ball joint boot cracks?

[01rangerxl]

I noticed some very small stress/dry rot cracks on the boots of the upper ball joints on my truck. They do not go all the way through the boot yet. They are about 3 mm long.

Would it be a good idea to put some RTV on them? I was thinking Ultra Black might be good because it stays flexible, but I don't know if the chemicals in it might degrade the rubber faster or simply not bond well. I definitely don't want to risk having the rubber deteriorate faster.

Anything else I should consider using? The joints themselves are still in very good shape and I would hate to replace them in only a year or so because the boots ripped open.

 

[chad8]

use black urethane sealant like they use for windshields.rtv will not stick for long

 

[JHZR2]

Yeah that black urethane is nasty, tough stuff.

But how about the right thing and replace them?

 

[Points]

Go for it. U can't hurt it much more. I would put some more grease in there sine it's open. Good luck.

 

[01rangerxl]

Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Yeah that black urethane is nasty, tough stuff.

But how about the right thing and replace them?


Because the joint inside is still good. No vibrations, no play, tracks straight as an arrow, tires don't even need to be rotated...I don't want to mess with a an otherwise solid, in spec suspension.

The cracks don't seem to go all the way through yet...they are very small and I think sealing them could make the boots last significantly longer, if there is a good way to do it.

I might give the urethane a try.

 

[eljefino]

Leave it alone. They'll last a long time in this half torn condition. It's kind of a new shape for the boot that it should have had from the get go.

You can get new universal boots from the auto parts store, but disassembling to put them in would have you might as well do the joints while you're at it.

 

[SS1970chrysler]

You can wipe some vegetable oil on them to help keep the rubber intact longer, but that's about it.

 

[brandini]

303 will make the boot last longer

 

[ltslimjim]

^I wouldn't use 303, it contains petroleum-base oils IIRC? I'd only use 303 on non-moving rubber parts for protection from the sun, not on ball joint boots or boots around axles etc.

 

[berniedd]

For me, the idea is to keep dirt from entering the ball joint itself and not to keep the grease from spilling out. My Mickey Mouse fix is to get the whole thing clean on the outside and wrap a plastic bag over it. Make the plastic waterproof and unravel-proof by wrapping good tiedowns, copper wire twist, or anything suitable at the ends of the plastic.

 

[Texan4Life]

I wouldn't worry until the boot tears. Are these ball joints greasable? if/when it does tear just grease them more often and don't worry. the fresh grease will push any contaminates out.

My old caddy has the original ball joints with Fed up boots. that car sees lots of dust and abuse. The ball joints are still nice and tight @ 235k

 

[ltslimjim]

^Ah, interesting experience. So, it may seem that for some apps perhaps running into a curb may damage a ball joint before a torn boot in of itself(if you can re-grease often enough to keep contaminants down/out all together)?

 

[Texan4Life]

Originally Posted By: ltslimjim
^Ah, interesting experience. So, it may seem that for some apps perhaps running into a curb may damage a ball joint before a torn boot in of itself(if you can re-grease often enough to keep contaminants down/out all together)?


that's been my experience. On farm equipment, steering balljoints usually don't have a boot or have just a rubber flap. It is so the old grease can escape.

the sealed boot is only good in a zero maintenance situation IMO.

 

[mechtech2]

If it is perfectly clean, the RTV can work, if you let it set up long enough.
The urethane is less picky.
Do what you can, and keep an eye on it.