Subaru Forester 2010 X - Weight and Grade of Syn ?

[nepadriver]

Hi all, great forum. Car is 2010 Subaru Forester X, 2.5 4 cyc, non turbo model. I noticed on Subie forums that the 2011 Forester has a different engine design, filter on top versus below engine, plus other changes possibly made to prevent head gasket issues. Anyway, the other major change Subie made, they "require" 0w-20 synthetic oil on 2011 Forester, while my 2010 recommends 5w-30 any type dino or syn.

Question: I've switched to synthetic myself just recently (after reading these forums), low milage (4600 after 1 year) mostly 5.5 miles one way (work), so I consider it severe conditions, and have had oil changed every 4 months for the first year. Now I switched to syn Mobil 1 5w-30, bought Pennzoil Ulta 5w-30 and a bunch of Subie filters for the future, but...

Should I switch to 0W-20 syn like Subie recommends for the 2011 models ? I'm guessing if I switch to a 2-3 month OCI (which I will anyway) from 4 month, I could use 5w-30 for winter, 0w-20 for summer (we get -10F to 0F or below in the winter, and close to 100F in the summer, like this summer).

Would that void my warranty? Any dangers/bad idea all around? I'm looking for better MPG on the 0w-20, but don't want any harm, looking to keep car for a long time.

 

[renegade_987]

You should use 0w20 while under warrenty. By the way,

]

EDIT: woops, thought you had the 2011/ 5w30 will be fine

 

[volk06]

I'd use the weight recommended especially during the warranty period so a good 5w-30. I see no benefit from switching to X-20 weight oil especially during the during the summer. With the distance you drive I highly doubt you would see any mpg increase.Do what ever makes you sleep best at night but changing out full syn after only a few months with low mileage is a waste of good oil. With your mileage, I'd go 6 months on any good dino since that'd only be around 2k or go to an extended drain full syn oil like M1 EP and change it once a year.

 

[Eddie]

I would definitely follow the factory recommendations for each year. 0w20 syn for the 2011 and 5w30 syn, Dino or blend for 2010. Using the incorrect viscosity could void the warranty so why even try to mess with the factory engineers recommendation?

 

[bepperb]

No, the 2011 engine is completely different. I would stick to a 5-30 in what you have.

 

[nepadriver]

Thanks all. I'll stick with syn 5w-30.

The reason I'm switching to 2-3 month OCI on synthetic, versus 4 month dino is based on a few reasons. First stop and go driving short intervals (from what I have been reading on the forums and the site "University" itself, I guess writien by Bob?) especially in very cold weather is brutal on engines, more so than actual mileage. I want to maintain this one as best I can for as long as I can. Subie and other card makers (following luxury brands I suppose) all require, not recommend Syn anymore. Before the Subie I used to own a 2007 BMW 328xi, once a year dealer OCI is what they said, however looking at a few pictures here/other forums of 5 year old BMW and Mercedes with 100k and sludge in the engines, I am beginning to think once a year is a bad idea unless its all highway even with the best oils.

Anyway, that is my thinking, if I burn an extra $50 a year on oil change and filter for peace of mind I'm going to do it, as I said, keeping this for hopefully 10 years or so.

 

[Indydriver]

If your vehicle sits out in the cold during winter and you have startup issues with 5W-30, you can try 0W-30. I would stick with the recommended 30 Weight though.

 

[chubbs1]

I sure don't think you can go wrong with the oils you picked....M1 Advanced and Pennz. Ultra. I Just changed from DuraBlend (in my Altima) to some "old" (March 2010) PU from when it first started hitting the shelves and was loaded with Boron* and my engine is noticeably quieter.

*I think through some of the recent posts I've seen the Boron content in PU has dropped significantly. Just a guess but I think it was because of poorer than expected sales.

 

[sicko]

Didn't have time to read the replies, will come back later if I remember to. I emailed Subaru to see if my '09 Forester was back spec'ed to 0w-20 when the '11s came out. I was told to continue to use the oil grade recommended for my vehicle in it's owners manual. So you should continue to use a Xw-30 weight oil. I used M1 0w-30 for a couple years and it seemed good. I recently switched to Valvoline and it seems equally fine. Valvoline does seem a touch smoother, but it's hard to say from oil to oil so it could just be in my mind.

 

[lexus114]

Originally Posted By: sicko
Didn't have time to read the replies, will come back later if I remember to. I emailed Subaru to see if my '09 Forester was back spec'ed to 0w-20 when the '11s came out. I was told to continue to use the oil grade recommended for my vehicle in it's owners manual. So you should continue to use a Xw-30 weight oil. I used M1 0w-30 for a couple years and it seemed good. I recently switched to Valvoline and it seems equally fine. Valvoline does seem a touch smoother, but it's hard to say from oil to oil so it could just be in my mind.


I hear this alot about the Synpower.

 

[Xstang]

I would not use 0w-20 in your car, period.

 

[bodeh6]

Don't use 0W-20. Use 0 or 5W-30. A lot of people actually runner thicker weights in the older engine design. The new engine is a different beast. In my 06 Legacy, I use 5W-30 year round with no plans on changing. If I bought a 2011 Forester then yeah I would use the recommended 0W-20 in it.

 

[fdcg27]

We own the same generation of Forester with the same engine.
I drained the FF at 1K, did the second 3K on QSGB 10W-40, used QSTP 10W-30 for the next 5K, and then put it on a GC diet up to 31K.
It now has VR1 syn 10W-30 in it.
The bad news is that fuel economy sucks about equally on any of these oils.
The good news is that the Subie starts, runs and sounds fine on any of them.
Someone noted above that their car seems smoother on Synpower.
Since we are now running Synpower dyed blue in the car, I'd say maybe.
Check your OM.
You can run a wide range of grades in this engine with Subaru's blessing.
If you want to run syn, look for deals on any 5W- or 10W-30.
I would not run 0W-20, since it is intended for the all new 2011 2.5 NA engine, which finally gets rid of those peaky timing belts.
You could run 0W-30, like GC or M1, although these oils are at the opposite ends of the range in terms of viscocity.
You probably don't need to change the oil as often as you propose.
Four months or 3K would be plenty frequent on any oil, even in short trip use.
From what I have seen here, Subaru NA flat fours are long lived and unfussy engines that are not demanding of their oil.

 

[bluesubie]

I would probably do a couple of uoa's and extend my oil change intervals. Even in severe conditions, the n/a EJ engines are very easy on oil. If you're trying to squeeze out as many mpg's as possible, check the oil manufacturers product data sheet and look for the lowest viscosity at 100C and the lowest High Temp High Shear.

-Dennis

 

[Steve S]

ARRRG