Getting about ready to change the fluid in my transmission. Manual says dump it at 60k for severe service. I have 68k on it now and want to change it, since I hear the 4T65E can have problems if you don't change the fluid. Thinking about just taking it to the stealership to have them change and flush the trans since I don't have the facilities to do it currently. I can get it done for a big cheaper at a auto shop, they use napa products. Thoughts?
2005 Grand Prix Trans Fluid Change
- Thread starter volk06
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If you can't do it yourself and you trust your mechanic who can do it cheaper, then I would go there.
Flushing a trans, or just exchanging the fluids, isn't Brain Science or Rocket Surgery. I have done it on quite a few vehicles and all of them have had positive results.
Just be sure that the person who does it drops the pan and cleans it out as the initial break in products tend to coat the pan in a layer of gray paste that you don't want in there.
A Pan drop + line flush is what I would look for.
If you did just one I would do a Pan drop just to get those initial break in particles out.
Flushing a trans, or just exchanging the fluids, isn't Brain Science or Rocket Surgery. I have done it on quite a few vehicles and all of them have had positive results.
Just be sure that the person who does it drops the pan and cleans it out as the initial break in products tend to coat the pan in a layer of gray paste that you don't want in there.
A Pan drop + line flush is what I would look for.
If you did just one I would do a Pan drop just to get those initial break in particles out.
I'm not a fan of the flushing machine.
I believe in just a pan drop or if worse removing a cooler line and dropping it into a pan to do the fluid flush.
my 4T65E had some brass particles on the base of my grey coated pan.. be on the lookout.. it hopefully won't affect your transmission and hopfully is just the break-in stuff.
I did a pan drop at 53k, used Redline D6 and no addtives.
it shifts the same as it always has.
When i get more time i'm gonna put a magnafine in place..
I believe in just a pan drop or if worse removing a cooler line and dropping it into a pan to do the fluid flush.
my 4T65E had some brass particles on the base of my grey coated pan.. be on the lookout.. it hopefully won't affect your transmission and hopfully is just the break-in stuff.
I did a pan drop at 53k, used Redline D6 and no addtives.
it shifts the same as it always has.
When i get more time i'm gonna put a magnafine in place..
The gasket can be re-used on most GM transmissions; this one for sure.
The filter is a real filter so a pan drop and filter change is the way to go. Any competent mechanic with a hoist can do this job.
No need for dealer.
The change to Dexron VI may change the shift characteristics, or it may not.
The filter is a real filter so a pan drop and filter change is the way to go. Any competent mechanic with a hoist can do this job.
No need for dealer.
The change to Dexron VI may change the shift characteristics, or it may not.
Do some searching on the topic or get a haynes/chilton manual and drop the pan, clean it, replace the filter and fill with what the owners manual states for ATF. Put 20k on it and drop the pan again, make sure it's nice and clean and refill again with the recommended ATF.
ATF is cheap, transmissions are not. Make sure you get new gaskets/ATF-RTV preferably from the dealer also.
ATF is cheap, transmissions are not. Make sure you get new gaskets/ATF-RTV preferably from the dealer also.
scorch, I hope you have changed the coolant in your stratus 2.7L. I had an 02 stratus and loved that car until I blew a head gasket and these motors are a bad design for that. To replace is basically a new engine. I had 112k on it when that happened. Just and FYI if you didnt already know! Don't want the same happening to you!
Originally Posted By: Scorch
Do some searching on the topic or get a haynes/chilton manual and drop the pan, clean it, replace the filter and fill with what the owners manual states for ATF. Put 20k on it and drop the pan again, make sure it's nice and clean and refill again with the recommended ATF.
ATF is cheap, transmissions are not. Make sure you get new gaskets/ATF-RTV preferably from the dealer also.
The 4T65 doesn't require RTV on the gasket, or a new gasket. The OEM gasket is re-usable. It's also designed to seal with pressure, and not need RTV for a successful seal. I've removed the OEM gasket on my Buick several times over the years, and never had a problem getting it to re-seal once the transmission pan bolts were tightened just past hand-tight.
Definitely get the pan dropped and the filter changed. For ATF, any generic Dex/Merc will work since Dex-VI wasn't used yet, IIRC.
Do some searching on the topic or get a haynes/chilton manual and drop the pan, clean it, replace the filter and fill with what the owners manual states for ATF. Put 20k on it and drop the pan again, make sure it's nice and clean and refill again with the recommended ATF.
ATF is cheap, transmissions are not. Make sure you get new gaskets/ATF-RTV preferably from the dealer also.
The 4T65 doesn't require RTV on the gasket, or a new gasket. The OEM gasket is re-usable. It's also designed to seal with pressure, and not need RTV for a successful seal. I've removed the OEM gasket on my Buick several times over the years, and never had a problem getting it to re-seal once the transmission pan bolts were tightened just past hand-tight.
Definitely get the pan dropped and the filter changed. For ATF, any generic Dex/Merc will work since Dex-VI wasn't used yet, IIRC.
Originally Posted By: sciphi
Originally Posted By: Scorch
Do some searching on the topic or get a haynes/chilton manual and drop the pan, clean it, replace the filter and fill with what the owners manual states for ATF. Put 20k on it and drop the pan again, make sure it's nice and clean and refill again with the recommended ATF.
ATF is cheap, transmissions are not. Make sure you get new gaskets/ATF-RTV preferably from the dealer also.
The 4T65 doesn't require RTV on the gasket, or a new gasket. The OEM gasket is re-usable. It's also designed to seal with pressure, and not need RTV for a successful seal. I've removed the OEM gasket on my Buick several times over the years, and never had a problem getting it to re-seal once the transmission pan bolts were tightened just past hand-tight.
Definitely get the pan dropped and the filter changed. For ATF, any generic Dex/Merc will work since Dex-VI wasn't used yet, IIRC.
Thanks for the clarification, I just make the assumption sometimes that a new gasket is cheaper than restarting everything to fix a leak. And also my vehicle has no gasket, only mopar rtv, some genius thought that one up...
Originally Posted By: Scorch
Do some searching on the topic or get a haynes/chilton manual and drop the pan, clean it, replace the filter and fill with what the owners manual states for ATF. Put 20k on it and drop the pan again, make sure it's nice and clean and refill again with the recommended ATF.
ATF is cheap, transmissions are not. Make sure you get new gaskets/ATF-RTV preferably from the dealer also.
The 4T65 doesn't require RTV on the gasket, or a new gasket. The OEM gasket is re-usable. It's also designed to seal with pressure, and not need RTV for a successful seal. I've removed the OEM gasket on my Buick several times over the years, and never had a problem getting it to re-seal once the transmission pan bolts were tightened just past hand-tight.
Definitely get the pan dropped and the filter changed. For ATF, any generic Dex/Merc will work since Dex-VI wasn't used yet, IIRC.
Thanks for the clarification, I just make the assumption sometimes that a new gasket is cheaper than restarting everything to fix a leak. And also my vehicle has no gasket, only mopar rtv, some genius thought that one up...
Also make sure you get the new filter placed just right in the collar as well. A new OEM filter will have a new filter collar with it. Not a big job really, my g/f has the exact same year of Grand Prix and it only took me an hour and a half to do the fluid and filter, I also take my time doing things like that to make sure it is done properly.
Get an aftermarket trans cooler in addition to the factory cooler. I doesnt cost that much and can save you a big headache in the end if you plan on keeping it for a long time. Those transmissions were not the best at dealing with any amount of heat. I found out first hand in my wifes impala....
I changed the fluid and filter in my 2004 Monte Carlo SS with the Supercharged engine and the 4T65HD transmission last year and used Valvoline Dextron VI and it seemed to help the shifting. I also reused the original pan gasket.
I bought the car used with 87,800 miles on it and I don't think the tranny fluid had ever been changed. The fluid wasn't burnt but it was a darker red. I only have 94,000 miles on the car now and plan on changing the fluid again at around 100,000 miles just to get more of the old fluid out.
I don't trust flushes and didn't want to go that route.
Wayne
I bought the car used with 87,800 miles on it and I don't think the tranny fluid had ever been changed. The fluid wasn't burnt but it was a darker red. I only have 94,000 miles on the car now and plan on changing the fluid again at around 100,000 miles just to get more of the old fluid out.
I don't trust flushes and didn't want to go that route.
Wayne
If you plan on doing another fluid change, put a drain plug kit in the first time. Makes the next change a snap.
Here's you a tip: When you pull the filter out, you'll see a little seal that the suction tube of the filter seals against. It's a little metal thingy with a molded rubber lip. They are a PAIN to remove and install.
Here's how I do it: I stick my finger up in the seal and feel of the rubber lip. If it's still flexible, I don't replace it. I put a little grease on it and put the thing back together. If you have to replace it... well good luck to ya'. I generally cave it in with a screwdriver and then put a socket upside down on an extension and drive it in with that. I'm sure there are better ways to do it... but most of the time I just leave the old seal in place.
Here's how I do it: I stick my finger up in the seal and feel of the rubber lip. If it's still flexible, I don't replace it. I put a little grease on it and put the thing back together. If you have to replace it... well good luck to ya'. I generally cave it in with a screwdriver and then put a socket upside down on an extension and drive it in with that. I'm sure there are better ways to do it... but most of the time I just leave the old seal in place.
A lot of times I don't replace the little seal unless it looks damaged. To get these out, I carefully put a small screwdriver between the wall of the hole and the metal part of the seal and bend the metal inward. I then get a pair of needle nose pliars and pull the seal out.
I thought about putting in a drain plug but I don't like any of the current setups that I have seen. I don't know if they make a replacement pan that has a drain plug in it. I'll have to do some research.
Wayne
I thought about putting in a drain plug but I don't like any of the current setups that I have seen. I don't know if they make a replacement pan that has a drain plug in it. I'll have to do some research.
Wayne
A replacement pan would cost quit a bit.
They are expensive to say the least.
Even a cheap drain plug kit, in the side of the pan would work fine I'm sure.
They are expensive to say the least.
Even a cheap drain plug kit, in the side of the pan would work fine I'm sure.
If you can weld and have access to a welder, here's a real easy way to install a drain plug in the pan:
Find a spot in the pan where there are solenoids or other thingies in the way.
Drill a 3/8" hole there.
Tack-weld a nut to the inside of the pan, right over that hole. You can cut a slot into the face of the nut to allow more fluid to drain.
Install a 3/8" bolt with a copper washer.
This is how I put a drain plug in my '01 Lumina. Quicker, easier, and cleaner than brazing a steel pipe fitting into the pan like I did with my old Corsica. But both work(ed) fine.
Find a spot in the pan where there are solenoids or other thingies in the way.
Drill a 3/8" hole there.
Tack-weld a nut to the inside of the pan, right over that hole. You can cut a slot into the face of the nut to allow more fluid to drain.
Install a 3/8" bolt with a copper washer.
This is how I put a drain plug in my '01 Lumina. Quicker, easier, and cleaner than brazing a steel pipe fitting into the pan like I did with my old Corsica. But both work(ed) fine.
That is a great idea. I have not welded since high school and that was on a stick welder. I do have a stick welder that has never been used but I don't know if a stick welder is a good thing to use on a tranny pan since they are kind of thin. I have friends that are good welders that would do it for me.
Wayne
Wayne
Just an update. I did find a replacement pan with the drain plug built in. It's made by Dorman and the part # is: 265-814. I will probably change the fluid when it gets a little warmer. I'm just now at 99,000 miles on the car so I have not driven the car much since my first post.
Wayne
Wayne
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