Yamaha Zuma Most Confusing Manual Ever, What Oil?

[CarbonCrew]

I just picked up a 2009 Yamaha Zuma 125cc with 290 miles, being that it was originally purchased in June 2010, I wanted to get the oil out. Looking at the owners manual, it appears that I need an Enigma machine to understand the recommendation. Or it could be that I'm exhausted. Here's what is in the manual:

10w-40, 10w-30? It looks like the recommendation is 20w-40 or 10w-30, but the temp chart doesn't match up.

For the transmission oil, an API SE 10w-30 is specified. What would the SE oil specification provide that a newer SM/SN would not? Would an SE oil more closely match the specifications of a gear oil.


Also, for my curiosity, the manual states that an 'Energy Conserving Oil II' or Higher should not be used. Which specification of an 'Energy Conserving Oil II' prohibits it from being recommended?

Thanks for the help.

 

[TurboTravis]

10W-40 under 50F, 20W50 above 110F, either for temps between 50F-110F

 

[beanoil]

10w40 from below 0 to 110 degrees for the engine. There is no internal wet clutch, so any Energy Conserving (or not) is fine. I'd run Rotella 15w40 and call it a day. I prefer Redline Shockproof in the rear drive, but even Yamaha's recommendation for a 10-30 would suffice. Shockproof Light is available at Cycle Gear, or from Redline.

 

[CaspianM]

It clearly states that from 10-110F use 10W-40 in the engine.

 

[beanoil]

Originally Posted By: CaspianM
It clearly states that from 10-110F use 10W-40 in the engine.

You are right, I stand corrected. I was looking at the bottom row in centigrade..

 

[Stu_Rock]

It is a poorly written document. The chart (10W-40 and 20W-50) does not match the text (10W-30 and 20W-40).

By saying that they do not want EC oil, they probably are implying that they want a high HT/HS viscosity, which will require at least a thick 30 weight.

I'll defer to others on the transmission oil. I have no idea.

 

[Honda_Fan]

Rotella T6 5w40 or Mobil 1 0w40 if you want to run Synthetic, otherwise another vote for Rotella T 15w40. Being an air cooled 125 cc engine, any of these would fit the bill perfectly. 20w50 is a little thick IMHO for a 125cc Engine, especially at start-up. If you want the best of both worlds, then meet in the middle and go with Mobil 1 15w50. As far as the rear end, you could even use 80w90 gear oil and change it maybe once every couple of years. These don't see much wear and just about anything will keep them happy.

It's not just Yamaha, the newer Honda manuals are poorly written as well. They cut/paste charts from yesteryear, and the written text is nowhere near matching.

Back in the day, Honda & Yamaha both recommended a 30-wt in 3 & 4 wheelers, and those things ran forever. I don't think your scooter is going to be too particular either way.

 

[BigCahuna]

To me it looks like they don't expect you to be riding when the temps are below 10f. So, if the bike is used in temps between 10-110f they want you to use a SAE 10-40 wt SG rated oil. And if the bike is used in temps of 50-120f, they say to use 20-50 wt Sae rated oil. as far as the 10-30wt recomendation, I'm guessing it has a rear drive unit and that's where you'd use that wt oil. What I'm thinking is you may have more oil consumption if using 10-40 in hot weather, so the give you an alternative oil wt so you don't complain there's something wrong with the motor.Just about every bike mfgr says to use a heavier wt oil in hot weather.,,

 

[car54]

My Yamaha vino 125 has a lot of valve train noise in weather over 80F, so I went to 20W-50. It keeps everything quiet much better than the 40-weights.

I'm running Valvoline VR1 synthetic 20W-50 all year long. I barely use it at all below 40F, the one year I needed to use it in really cold weather I switched to 5w-40 Mobil1 Turbo Diesel Truck.

I'm running 80W-90 gear oil in my final drive. It came out clean after 5000 miles so I'm sure this thing will last forever.

 

[CarbonCrew]

Excellent information. Thanks for the help everyone. After a 10 hour drive to pick up the scooter, I looked at the manual and thought I was going delirious. I even looked at my car's manuals to make sure that I wasn't taking crazy pills.

I probably have something in my stash that will work perfectly. I figured these little things will run on just about anything.

Thanks again.

 

[RC46_Rider]

Reality is that you will get excellent results with any decent 10W-40 motorcycle oil. That scooter is not a 175 HP Sportbike that turns 14,000 rpm or a heavily loaded air cooled V-twin pulling a trailer on a long up hill grade across eastern Colorado on I-70 at 70 mph. By far, the most important thing about the oil in your scooter is to change it reasonably often!

Seems to me that the perfect oil would be Shell Rotella T-6 in 5W-40. Reasons: (1.) JASO MA rating; (2.)You probably have lots of short trips where the oil never warms up, so the thinner initial viscosity would be good for cold starts and cool engine running but if you do take a trip it is a 40 Wt. at full operating temp. (3.) It is also very reasonably priced at Wally World.

Bottomline: with any decent oil and a sensible change interval, you will never wear out that motor unless you
abuse it.

 

[Mr_Joe]

Now what's the chance of you riding that bike below 30 degrees? About zero I'd say, more likely to see 95. I'll 2nd the 15w-40 Shell Rotella.

 

[Cujet]

Why not simply use 10W-20 in everything?

Wow, that's a bit confusing. I see your point. I'd use 10W-40 unless it's over 110 degrees out (not likely).

 

[CarbonCrew]

Originally Posted By: RC46_Rider

Reality is that you will get excellent results with any decent 10W-40 motorcycle oil. That scooter is not a 175 HP Sportbike that turns 14,000 rpm or a heavily loaded air cooled V-twin pulling a trailer on a long up hill grade across eastern Colorado on I-70 at 70 mph. By far, the most important thing about the oil in your scooter is to change it reasonably often!


Yeah I get what you are saying. The same could be said for a lot of cars. I figured that it would probably run on just about anything you throw in it. I was mostly trying to point out the hi jinx in the owners manual. Even the factory service manual can't keep it straight. It recommends 20w-40 or 10w-30 for the engine and 10w-30 for the final drive with API specifications like it drew them out of a hat. SE and SG, specifications that have written the book on obsolescence.

Anyhow, I picked up some Rotella 15w-40 and just did the oil change and I'm glad I did. The oil was very 'shiny'. When I hit 600 miles I'll change it again and probably go with Rotella T6, I love that stuff.

 

[car54]

My yamaha vino 125 book is the same way. It contradicts itsself everywhere. I would stick with thicker oil, 40- or 50 weight, and I dont even worry about changing it that often. You'll see a 2000 mile, 2-years in the sump UOA from my vino-125 running mobil1 20w-50 V-twin later this month.

 

[vo_marz]

the EO and the gear box uses different grades.

the transmission part is the gear box , which is located near the back of the scoot.

 

[DriveHard]

Originally Posted By: vo_marz
the EO and the gear box uses different grades.

the transmission part is the gear box , which is located near the back of the scoot.


THIS!

The engine oil is supposed to be 10w-40.
The final drive/transmission is supposed to be 10w-30.