Polyurea Grease for a 1941 JD?

[edhackett]

I'm getting to the point in my tractor restoration that I need to purchase more grease.

Two sets of bearings are in the fan shaft and in the clutch drum. Both of these require disassembly to re-grease and is called for annually. This tractor will probably not see the equivalent of a year's farming in the next 70 years of it's life. I'd like to be able to go several years on this service.

A bit of searching seems to indicate that the polyurea greases don't dry out as much as the soap based greases, therefore may be a better candidate for long term use. Am I correct in this assumption?

This John Deere grease is readily available and reasonably priced. This looks like it will nicely cover all uses on this tractor.

Multi-Purpose SD Polyurea Grease (TY6341, TY24421, TY24422, TY26982, CXTY24419)

Applications

Ideal in rolling-contact applications
15 to 350°F (-26 to 177°C)
For high-temperature, extreme-pressure conditions
Used for initial lubrication at the factory in U-joints and axle bearings
For excellent protection in corrosive and wet conditions
Compatible with most other types of grease
Excellent for all-purpose applications, especially those requiring a severe-duty grease
Our best multi-purpose grease


Service rating

Equipment manufacturers' extended service intervals
NLGI grade 2
GC-LB

Test analysis

Penetration @ 77°F (25°C), 60 strokes 275-295 mm/10
Dropping point, degrees F 500°F
Timken OK load, minimum 45 lb. (20.4 kg)
Water washout @ 175°F (79.5°C), loss 2%
Oxidation pressure drop @ 100 hours, maximum 10 psi

Ed

 

[Tempest]

This instruction of per year is for grease made in 1941. I think you will agree that grease now is much better than in 1941.

Modern wheel bearings go for years without being regreased so I think using just about any modern, high quality grease should do just fine.

The specs on the JD grease seems middle of the road.

 

[Tempest]

Is this the situation that you have?
http://www.jdhpubs.com/newPdf/Governor-1-JD-H-Tractors.pdf

 

[edhackett]

Yes, that's similar. Mine is a B, so the governor bearings are lubed by engine oil under pressure. The fan shaft is similar. Unlike a modern wheel bearing they are not sealed. All they have is a felt retainer. They sit directly in the 190F airflow from the radiator. Removing the fan shaft on a restored tractor where you are concerned with banging things up is a real chore. The clutch bearing is the equivalent of a throwout bearing. It sits in the belt pulley and is only protected by a metal shield that keeps the big chunks out. It can be serviced without risking cosmetic damage. Part #15 here: http://members.fortunecity.com/john_deere/PC330/20-Pulleys.jpg

You are right about the specs being nothing special, especially the Timken data. I'm really frustrated with companies that just list minimum specifications. It may be the best grease in the world and you'd never know it.

Ed

 

[Tempest]

If this is an open bearing (more or less), I would go with a thick and heavy grease. I'm using CAT Desert gold in my ball joints and put it into a wheel bearing a few months ago. All good so far.

This is a semisyn grease that uses a calcium sulphonate thickener. It uses a heavy base oil and is very tacky, without being too stringy (which I hate). I sprayed it with some non-chlor brake cleaner and it pretty much ignored it.

A thick grease like this should stay in place and form something of a seal around the bearing.