'86 Mazda B2000 - Oil/Filter?

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I’m new to the forum, but have read and searched for similar threads. Most 80’s model vehicles in threads have typically been European, so here I am.
I've had my Mazda B2000 for about 6 years know. This truck is historically known as the “weakest” American sold truck. From the factory, the 2.0 liter, 2-barrel (which I have a Weber), 4-cylinder pushed out 80 horsepower. It was originally a second vehicle, however, has been my primary for the past year and approximately 12,000 miles placed on it. These miles have predominantly been placed on it in the past 6 months, so I would assume for a year, the mileage would be around 18,000. My commute is 73 miles per day, all highway and I don't go over 60miles/hr.
It currently has 211,xxx miles on it and has a minimal leak and, much like most Mazda B2000/B2200s, smokes at crank-up and burns less than a quart per oil change which is every 3,000 miles. Some more information about my driving habits is that I, for the most part, allow the engine to warm, not all the way to operating temperature, but I don’t push high RPMs until operating temperature is reached.
For the past 4-5 years, I've stuck with Quaker State 10W30 Conventional motor oil and sometimes Quaker State High Mileage 10W30 with the orange can, Fram. Strictly, a Walmart oil change. The manual calls for 10W30.
But lately, I’ve been thinking of trying a different viscosity to see how the truck likes it. I really thought about Rotella 15W40 but would prefer a 5W40. My thought being that the 40 weight oil would help with the burning of oil and accommodate for the age of the truck. The downfall of 40 weight, and I understand that it might be minimal, is gas mileage. The truck currently gets 31-33 MPG and has done so for the past 6 months on the same commute as before, where it got 25-28. The change was in the timing of the truck.
However, I also would like to try 5W30. I actually purchased tonight some Mobil Super High Mileage 5W30 and an orange can, Fram.
I’m looking for some advice as to which weight oil I should consider with the current state of my truck. I’m located in North Carolina and in the winter, we may see lows in the teens, and in the summer, highs above 100. I’m also considering different filters and I understand that within the $3-$5 class, there may be little difference, but I’m looking for a reliable filter. Not one that the media will deform or tear. I’m currently looking at the Purolator Classic L14610 for 4.99(Advance Auto), WIX 51357 for 5.99(O’reilly), and Motorcraft FL810 for 4.99(Advance) compared to the Fram 3593A for 3.49(Walmart).
Sorry this got kind of long, but felt more information couldn’t hurt. Thanks ahead of time and I’ve been a fan of the site for a while, but am now just joining. Lots of great information.
 
There will not be a whole lot of difference in the oils and the filters .The viscostity differences will be minimal is even noticeable and then only in extreme cold or heat . Swap away and find a favorite. The mpgs are real nice!!!
 
My dad had a B2200 that he passed on to his son in law and then to a grandson. It has over 300,000+ miles on it. It's just used to haul brush and junk now. It started smoking on start up at around 250,000 miles and smokes all the time now. (registered in a non-emission county)

And if you think the B2000 is weak, drive a first generation Ranger with a 2.0
lol.gif
72hp!

My dad used the cheapest 10W30 and cheapest filter, but on a regular basis. Who knows what my nephew used if he ever changed it at all. I probably would have gone to a 10W40 first or maybe a 20W50. Now it doesn't matter. It just consumes it and I'm terrified to drive it. Who knows how long the timing belt has been soaked in leaking oil?
 
Hey if that truck is good enough for Microsoft co-founder Paul Allen...

I had an 87 SE. SE meant shag carpeting and a tach. No AC, manual steering. Standard HD brake drums pretty much filled the rear wheels. Nice shifter, IIRC the trans is a relative of the one in the Miata.

For oil, jeez, run anything you want. The HDEOs are a good idea and overkill: with a timing belt you won't have the shear issues of a chain driven cam. Lose the Fram filter next time; you can do better with less $. Shop our sales & rebates section.
 
See how it likes the Mobil Super HM 5w30, you can use about any brand in that engine. I would definitely switch filters to WIX or Purolator, they are just higher quality, especially the WIX. I would just look for the oil/filter change specials at your local auto store.
 
I had an '88 Mazda 323 for about 15 yrs. Eventually had the smoke at start up issue. I tried several HM oils - all of them were excellent at pretty much eliminating the smoke at start up. The car spec'd at 10w40 - which is what I used, except for occassional 15w40 and 20w50. The 20w50 seemed to noticeably bog down the engine a bit.

I miss this car (5 spd stick). I'm so bored with automatics.
 
Originally Posted By: Spazdog
My dad had a B2200 that he passed on to his son in law and then to a grandson. It has over 300,000+ miles on it.


I can only hope mine will last this long. This truck was actually given to me and my brother by a couple that my mother use to work for. It was just sitting in their back yard with a lot of trash in the bed. We took a battery and it cranked right up. They weren't driving it because the slave cylinder was shot and they didn't know why they couldn't shift gears. So my brother and I pumped the clutch all the way home that night and it gave life to the Mazdarati.

Originally Posted By: eljefino
I had an 87 SE. SE meant shag carpeting and a tach. No AC, manual steering. Standard HD brake drums pretty much filled the rear wheels.


I have the SE as well. Shag carpet (which I pulled out, pressure washed and let dry on the line for like a month and now looks new), no air conditioning (which isn't too bad for just me with the windows down), no power-steering (which the steering got better with the Michelins I recently put on compared to the Walmart $120 Douglas special), and yes drums in the rear (that I need to change) but no tach in mine.

Originally Posted By: chubbs1
See how it likes the Mobil Super HM 5w30, you can use about any brand in that engine. I would definitely switch filters to WIX or Purolator, they are just higher quality, especially the WIX. I would just look for the oil/filter change specials at your local auto store.


I think because we are headed into the days of summer, I may go to a 40 weight oil. Perhaps 10W40 but 5W40 if I can find it. I'm curious to see if the heavier oil would help with consumption and smoking. And when late Fall comes around, in anticipating Winter, go to the 5W30.

What is the consensus of perhaps 5W20 in the deep winter months? From reading BITOG, I gather he runs a grade lower in viscosity. I do realize that he has the capabilities of monitoring his oil pressures with each oil he uses and I do not. I also realize I have a “worn” engine and that the lighter viscosity could cause more leaking and consumption. But one thing caught my attention…
Quote from BITHOG:
“Please note that it makes no difference what oil you are using. The 0W-20 Mobil 1 that is SL rated meets the same criteria as that SL rated 10W-30 synthetic or mineral based Pennzoil. That SJ or in particular that SH oil some people are looking for (from their older automotive owners manual) is no where near as good as any SL oil of today. Always use the most currently available, highest rated motor oil, even in the oldest, most worn engine. You may require a thicker grade but just make sure it is SL or SM rated.”

I admit that I’m not fluent in API ratings, but my service manual calls for SF, SF/CC or SF/CD. How would I know if one of the newer oils of today would surpass the criteria for my truck?
Is there a reference?
Because a SL 0W20 meets the criteria of a SL 10W30, does that mean the same protection?

The point I’m getting at is if a thinner viscosity would give the same or better protection than a heavier viscosity AND assuming that my truck doesn’t consume the thinner viscosity, I gather as if this would be more beneficial.

Thanks for all the comments. It seems as if this forum is a beneficial one and not one that bashes one another.
 
Those older Mazda trucks are absolutely indestructible. It all started with the Ford Courier, which was a re-badged Mazda in the 1970's, and just kept going.

We had a neighbour that had an early-1980's one that was given to him by a client he was doing work for, b/c it was a long commute to the job site (on site IT work). I don't know how many miles he put on it, commuting a crazy distance, but it would have been a lot. He said it was the most reliable vehicle he'd had.

As for oil and filters, 15W-40 in a NC summer would be a good option.
 
Just go to Advance Auto. Get 5Qts of Castrol High Mileage and a PureOne filter for $22 or Oreillys and get the same oil with Wix for $19.99
 
Originally Posted By: addyguy
Those older Mazda trucks are absolutely indestructible. It all started with the Ford Courier, which was a re-badged Mazda in the 1970's, and just kept going...

We had a couple of Couriers. One was a ugly brown long bed with a Ford 2.3. Well, the block, head, and valve cover was Ford 2.3....nothing else matched a Pinto or Mustang. It had a Hitachi carburetor and everything else was labled "Toyo Kogyo".
Man, it was a good little truck. It's bed was loaded so heavily that I thought the tires would pop more than once. Well over half a ton. It worked hard and never broke. And compared to the chain driven OHC 2.0 in the other early B2000s and Couriers, it was quick.
 
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