Redline 0W20 in a MB 229.5 Application...

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Sep 28, 2006
Messages
726
Location
NoVA
Hi All,

I am thinking of using Redline 0W20 in my MB CLK350 (M272, V6)...I put 10K miles per year and drive normally with each trip almost always more than 20 miles so TBN should not be an issue(?) - 8.5 quart system.

What say you? Any concerns or should I just stay with Mobil 1 0W40?
 
Is this car still under warranty?

In any case, the main requirement of the 229.5 spec is that HT/HS should be at least 3.5 cP. RL 0w-20 does not meet that requirement.

Is there any particular reason why you want to use RL 0w-20?
 
I have M1, PP and Synpower xW20 in '00 E430 for the last 3 years, the engine is much quieter with thinner oil. If your car is out of warranty you may want to try Redline 5W20 for an OCI, if it is okay then try 0W20. Or you may want to try M1 0W30 for an OCI to see how it works then try M1 0W20 after that.
 
Yes, 08 and still under warranty but I don't know how that would affect how Redline 0W20 performs in a MB 229.5 application(?) I would think that trying it within the warranty period would be better in case something goes wrong
smile.gif


I am trying to eliminate a nasty 3-4 second startup clatter.

I don't think I need the 3.5 HT/HS since I don't drive it hard or at 140 MPH on an Autobahn(?)
 
Originally Posted By: Lex94
Yes, 08 and still under warranty but I don't know how that would affect how Redline 0W20 performs in a MB 229.5 application(?) I would think that trying it within the warranty period would be better in case something goes wrong
smile.gif


If something does go wrong with the engine, the dealer may deny your warranty claim if you were using unapproved oil.

Quote:

I don't think I need the 3.5 HT/HS since I don't drive it hard or at 140 MPH on an Autobahn(?)

Maybe, maybe not. The high HT/HS isn't just needed for hard/high speed driving.
 
Originally Posted By: Lex94
Yes, 08 and still under warranty but I don't know how that would affect how Redline 0W20 performs in a MB 229.5 application(?) I would think that trying it within the warranty period would be better in case something goes wrong
smile.gif


I am trying to eliminate a nasty 3-4 second startup clatter.

I don't think I need the 3.5 HT/HS since I don't drive it hard or at 140 MPH on an Autobahn(?)


It would probably be fine, but I'd opt for their 0w30 or 5w20. The 5w20 has a HT/HS of 3.3.
 
But if something goes wrong with the engine after the warranty period then the dealer will definitely deny my warranty claim.

I am a bit concerned about HT/HS but the ester-base and NOACK of 9 makes me "feel" better about this...Any other concerns I may be overlooking?
 
Originally Posted By: Lex94
But if something goes wrong with the engine after the warranty period then the dealer will definitely deny my warranty claim.

Well, yeah, that's how warranties work, LOL.

I don't follow your logic. The likelihood of something going wrong with the engine while using approved oil is less than if using non-approved one, IMO.
 
Lex94 said:
But if something goes wrong with the engine after the warranty period then the dealer will definitely deny my warranty claim.

Do you think it would matter what oil you are using at this point to the dealer? Is this a joke?
 
Well, it would most likely work...assuming your driving style is on the gentler side. However the real question is why? You most likely won't notice a huge fuel economy impact, and you're not getting any better engine protection sans super cold starts. M1 0w-40 has a VI of 185, so its already pretty thin at low temperatures, at least compared to a similar oil with a lower VI.

If you're feeling adventurous, why not try Redline 0w-30?
 
Originally Posted By: Lex94
I am a bit concerned about HT/HS but the ester-base and NOACK of 9 makes me "feel" better about this...Any other concerns I may be overlooking?


A 'good feeling' is no substitute for a protective film of oil!
If the mfg. calls for 3.5 HTHS, run 3.5! HTHS is good for idling valves as well as Autobahn blasting.

Go with 0W-30 (3.2) at the least, perhaps throwing in a quart of 0W-40. That would get you ~3.5 and good low temp flow.
 
Yeah...There have been issues with the M272 engine where the balance shaft gear wears prematurely...My thinking is that in these failed engines the owners were taking them to Jiffy Lube for that 5W30 ILSAC GF-4 "energy conserving" goodness (sacasm). If I used Redline 0W30 I would still have a nice low Vis40 of 57 instead of the 0W40's 75. Redline 0W20 is 43.

I think I will give Redline 0W30 a go and see if that doesn't clear up the cold start rattle. I think the balance shaft gears will be better protected with a lower startup viscosity and HTHS of 3.2 than with a HTHS of 3.5(?)

I guess I could use Castrol Edge 0W30 which is 229.5 approved...Now if I could find a Product Data Sheet for it...Ugh.

Doesn't the ester-base oil provide a stronger film strength than highly-scrubbed petro oil or PAO?
 
Because Redline is an ester-based oil and is consequently highly polar, the oil will cling to the engine's metal surfaces better than a non-ester oil. This would help deal with startup wear by leaving an oil film after shutdown, but not necessarily the startup clatter that you hear for 3-4 seconds. The clatter may be due hydraulic lash adjusters leaking down when the engine is off, or the cam chain tensioner waiting for oil pressure to take up slack.

I like Redline oils, but think you need to get the HTHS viscosity up to the manufacturer's recommendation, whether or not you drive the car hard.
 
I really don't even consider Castrol because their operation seems so slimy in the USA anyway...Like a bunch of Harvard MBAs are running the place.
 
Update:

I change to Redline 0W30 and it did not eliminate the startup rattle to any great extent. I changed back to Mobil 1 0W40 (March 2011 batch) and have noticed the engine running much smoother than with the last Mobil 0W40 fill of a year ago.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top