Rust on dipstick - sign of impending doom?!?

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Hi, all -

I recently past the 230k mile mark in my 1993 MX-6 with the 2.0L I4. Obviously, this car is no gem. However, up until recently, the engine was in quite good shape (I have a UOA on the board here). About a year ago, however, it developed a serious vacuum leak. It is where the intake manifold seals with the head - could be a bad gasket, or could be a bad manifold. Either way, I don't think it's worth fixing on a car with so many other things wrong with it (body is terrible, suspension not so great, interior getting worse every day, no A/C, power steering leaks, etc. etc. etc.).

So this leak brings in massive amounts of unfiltered air - it idles on three cylinders, and the check-engine light comes on when cruising (O2 sensor's readings don't match what the fuel injectors think they are doing, since it's not burning well in that cylinder). Still get about 35 MPG on the highway, which is really the only place I take it anymore with the idle problems.

Within the past few months, I've started to notice some little drops of liquid on the dipstick, going all the way up. I drive mostly highway miles, 100 miles a day, and it was winter, so I thought it was just normal condensation.

Now, I have some pretty nasty rust on the dipstick. My questions are:

(a) is there some way to get this rust off and/or prevent more from forming (short of fixing the car, of course
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(b) is this rust from "normal" condensation considering the vacuum leak, or does it mean something else is going wrong, too? No noticeable loss of coolant or anything like that, but could it be the beginning of a head/head gasket problem?
 
One more little tidbit. Since I'm kinda getting sick of the car, but I hate to just junk it, I'm running the OCIs out to 5000 miles (as per the manual for severe service - of course, severe service doesn't mean massive vacuum leak!) just to see how the oil fares. I'm also running a Fram OCOD for 2 OCIs.

So, assuming it lasts that long, I'm going to do a UOA on a 5k VWB 10w30, 10k miles on the filter, with vacuum leak and everything. I'm excited to see what kind of freak-out Blackstone will have! Guesses on the results?
 
Interesting that you post this question.

One month ago, I bough the Tribute in my sig. It had fairly low miles for the year, and when I checked the dipstick and oil cap; the oil cap had a thin layer of the white 'goop' that forms from condensation mixing with oil, and the dipstick had about an inch of thick rust on the very, very top of it.

I figured the car had lived a life of very short trips, and condensation had caused the problems. I do a lot of driving with this vehicle, so after a week when I checked the oil, the whitish goop was gone, and the rust on the dipstick was now 'damp' with oil, I'm assuming from vapours that come up the tube.

With all the highway driving you do, you shouldn't have rust developing, or see any water droplets - your engine should be so warm these don't form, even during the winter - I'd say your HG is starting to go.
 
I wouldn't spend money on UOA for a near end of the engine life, I would rather change oil and filter a little more often such as 3-4k miles with the cheapest dino and filter you can buy, if you decide not to fix the serious vacuum leak.
 
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
I wouldn't spend money on UOA for a near end of the engine life, I would rather change oil and filter a little more often such as 3-4k miles with the cheapest dino and filter you can buy, if you decide not to fix the serious vacuum leak.



shoooot, i would just filler up with delo 15/40 with a fram XG and never change it again, just add to it. the car has one foot in the grave anyway
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My wife also says its crazy to pay for the UOA. I'm not doing it for myself to see the life of the car - I'm doing it to post it here and see what happens.

Is it a problem when you do things for "BITOG" cred?
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If you want to spend your hard earn money for an UOA of an engine about to die soon with a serious vacuum leak then you're free to do what you like. But the benefits of it is of no use here, we all know the oil condition in your engine is not good, then why waste the money ?
 
Intake gaskets aren't that hard to fix on I4 engines usually. Why not just fix it?

[edit] fix it yourself, I mean.
 
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Originally Posted By: Brons2
Intake gaskets aren't that hard to fix on I4 engines usually. Why not just fix it?

[edit] fix it yourself, I mean.


My thoughts too
 
You guys are getting some water/coolant in your oil from cylinder head/intake manifold leaks. Hot water vapor rusts up that dipstick after shutdown.
 
Do the propane test, using an unlit torch with small dia.,plastic tube attached,go around the intake gaskets ...when idle improves ,you found the leak.If it dosent ,the leak is prolly down deeper like the head gasket/cracked head.you might get lucky ,too and find something very easy to fix such as apoxy a small crack somewhere.
 
A vac leak will prevent the PCV system from functioning properly(It's purely vac operated), hence the condensation on the dipstick...

Fix your vac leak and check to be sure the PCV isn't plugged up...
 
Excellent feedback, thanks! I've done the brake cleaner test - the idle boosts up when I spray down on the manifold/head. I don't tear it apart because if it's more than the gasket - say a bad manifold or crack in the head - it really isn't worth fixing. If I did it myself, I'd probably mess it up and go from a car that has one foot in the grave, to a car that's in the grave. I have attempted to cover what I thought the hole was - may give that another shot. Yep, nothing like some Permatex to really class up the car.

The PCV comment is excellent - I have no idea why I didn't think of this before!
 
if your going to keep it and not fix it (right) you should just keep the fluids full (water,atf and oil) and let nature take its coarse. i would not spend a dime on oil changes or anything. heck when the oil is low just top off with used oil. if you get a flat fix a flat or get a used tire. if the brakes are squeaking let it go until its beyond metal to metal.

dont spend ANY money on it and see how far it goes. ya know for the sake of science. be sure to keep us updated


oh and ditch the permetex, it wont work from the outside. clean up the area and cake on some of that magnum steel epoxy putty from oriellys. that will stop the vacuum leak!
 
1. Figure out how much a lot or someone on craigslist would give you.
2. Figure out how much longer the car will last before something really bad happens.

Answer number 2, and do number one the day before number 2 happens, or close to it.
 
Originally Posted By: Xstang
1. Figure out how much a lot or someone on craigslist would give you.
2. Figure out how much longer the car will last before something really bad happens.

Answer number 2, and do number one the day before number 2 happens, or close to it.


Just for that I hope he sells the car to you.
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You can fix 'er up, right?
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