Synthetic, Lithium, 5% Molybdenum grease needed

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Originally Posted By: IH8mush
Who Built the axle,

GKN ?

NSK ?

Or NTN,

You mentioned GKN as being one of them that builds Toyota axles,

These are the folks that I learned about the inner tripod joint using the thinner grease,

So who built the axle ?

What is the part # of the kits, any information, any at all,

GKN and NTN and NSK all use a # 1 or thinner grease from production,

All of them, So Who builds this axle, what is the name on the boot kit,
?

ALL boot kits I have ever purchased have a #1 or thinner grease in them,


OBVIOUSLY they DON'T all use #1 or thinner.
 
here is a picture of a boot kit, with a #1 grease

This is for a NSK axle, hopefully you can see the part #

These kits came with the same grease pouches for both inner and outer boots,

at the time I redid this axle on the Isuzu I was unaware of the reason for the different grease in the inboard axle,

I used a thinner grease simply because the amount of grease in the pouch was not as much as what was in there to begin with,



DSCN5966.jpg
 
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Well it is aftermarket,

It does have a OEM reference #

Lists the names of manufactures it is used for ?

It is aftermarket, I bought is at a little Store in CDA that specializes in Import parts,

So If a guy needs a boot kit, this is what he gets, and a #1 grease

What is found in the outboard boots, didnt get the exact inboard grease but

This is what is sold, #1 or thinner,

Napa same deal, #1

Carquest, I am sure same,

So again post up your boot kits and # and some info I want to learn about this green grease,
 
erock, thanks for the info.

I have no dog in this fight, but a grease that has been in such a bearing for 30 years would probably have thinned out quite a bit.

Even new grease in a wheel bearing will thin or separate by the needles in short order.
 
Originally Posted By: Tempest
erock, thanks for the info.

I have no dog in this fight, but a grease that has been in such a bearing for 30 years would probably have thinned out quite a bit.

Even new grease in a wheel bearing will thin or separate by the needles in short order.


Tempest,

Yes and no, it has been my observation that wheel bearing grease that has been neglected for years hardens, ,

Drys up,

Sure the grease does thin near the bearing, to thinner consistancy, but after a longer usage the grease tends to harden, drys up,

I know I read this somewhere as well as seeing it in vehicles that went for a extended period of time with out service,

This may be what they term "Oxidation",
 
DSCN5794.jpg


Here is the combined amount of grease in a wheel hub out of a ford rig,

This is on the grease story thread on "Bob"

The blacker thinner grease only a small portion of it near the bearing as Tempest mentioned is really doing anything,

The other grease sits in the hub, eventually drys up, then you have failure,

Wheel bearing seizes or noise, Squealing, open the thing up and find bone dry grease, waxy
 
Here is a discription I found on line ,

Show all Base Oils, Oil Additives and Specialty Fluids Manufacturers
About Base Oils, Oil Additives and Specialty Fluids
Base oils, oil additives, and specialty fluids are specialty and proprietary base oils and fluids related to lubricants, coolants, thermal oils, greases, metal working fluids and other application- specific fluids. They have a unique composition or tailored compounding suited for specialized applications. Base oils, oil additives, and special fluids can cling to surfaces better than other industrial oils and deliver both lubrication and protection. Base oil is the oil used in oil formulas before additives are introduced. Base oils, oil additives, and specialty fluids are used to provide protection for four-wheel drive steering knuckles, spring shackles, and other components operating in high-load, low-speed conditions.


That about sums it up a specialty fluid the provides protection that "Clings to the surface"

A Correct fluid,
 
The really odd thing about this is that there are Folks in the Toyota aftermarket that know all about this "Correct Fluid" that last 30 years,

?????

Weird,


"Take it to a shop that knows what they are doing. For $600 you can get a complete knuckle overhaul, with the correct parts and fluid and not worry about your axle for another 30 years"
__________________
Kurt Williams
Cruiser Outfitters
 
Originally Posted By: IH8mush
The really odd thing about this is that there are Folks in the Toyota aftermarket that know all about this "Correct Fluid" that last 30 years,

?????

Weird,


"Take it to a shop that knows what they are doing. For $600 you can get a complete knuckle overhaul, with the correct parts and fluid and not worry about your axle for another 30 years"
__________________
Kurt Williams
Cruiser Outfitters

When Kurt said that, he was speaking SPECIFICALLY AGAINST the grease you are trying to sell, frank.
Using people's words out of context is extremely dishonest.
 
Originally Posted By: Rix
Originally Posted By: IH8mush
The really odd thing about this is that there are Folks in the Toyota aftermarket that know all about this "Correct Fluid" that last 30 years,

?????

Weird,


"Take it to a shop that knows what they are doing. For $600 you can get a complete knuckle overhaul, with the correct parts and fluid and not worry about your axle for another 30 years"
__________________
Kurt Williams
Cruiser Outfitters

When Kurt said that, he was speaking SPECIFICALLY AGAINST the grease you are trying to sell, frank.
Using people's words out of context is extremely dishonest.



No its pretty plain English, speaks of a "correct fluid"

Mentions the 30 year longevity, with this "Correct Fluid"

Pretty cut and dry


What is this "Correct Fluid"? 93 Chewbacca wants to know,

Recognizing the need for such a fluid,

What I am telling him that his Toyota was filled with a 'Correct Fluid"

If 93 Chewbacca and others can tell that a Fluid would best lube the CV joint, do you not think Toyota Engineers would see this "Master of the Obvious" observation,


Now when I went to the local Toyota dealership here in CDA ID and was told this grease was "Private"

E-rock, Rixxer, and others say this service Manager "Tony" lied to me to make me go away, telling me that it was "Private"

He did not lie,

Actually while other words could have described it better, this one works,

Private grease,

Trade secret grease, So While he could have described it better "Private grease" works to,

I do not know why Toyota sales dept chose to keep this "Private"

Possibly Toyota Motor Sales and Toyota Motor company 2 separate outfits, do not share there Trade Secrets,

Dont know,

But "I love what you do for me Toyota"

Well I wouldnt Rixxer they are mis informing you,
 
"bobistheoilguy.com has a good grease forum that may be able to shed some light on this."

93 Chewbacca


Mr Chewbacca, I am banned from your Mud Mushroom factory, so I may not be able to see if you updated your thread and tell them what "The Light of Bob" is revealing,

Now in case you are unaware your IH8mud operation is a "Mushroom Factory"

This is a place where you are kept in the dark and fed "[censored]"

While not to many folks think that "Bob" could shine some light in there, You did,

How bouts giving us a update , or is the light to bright?
 
Okay so the "Backwoodsgoop" is not the correct fluid according to kurt that lasts for 30 years

so what is?

"I love what you do for me Toyota"

And all you have is that joke about Fujio,,,, I have you countless times on is it grease contaminated with gear oil, left or right side, some what contamintated #2 grease

Posting up as "This is Factory" how stupid are you,?

How stupid do you think folks are?

Hey #2 grease doesnt move around in the CV joint, gets flung out never to return,,

Then You Brainwashed tech posts up your #1 grade or #2 grade contaminated by gear oil left or right side,
And say look the "Factory grease is all worked into the joint," look see, the factory grease

#2 contaminated by gear oil,
#1 grade,

While only a couple here on the jooper site see this , the" light" of Bob should help 93 Chewbacca and others find this "Correct Fluid"

It it ain† †he Backwoodsgoop, lets find out what it is,, then I you can sell it,,, Call it Um "Rixxerfield,"

part # RFSKL#1
 
I can't tell you EXACTLY what was used at the factory (brand name, or exactly what is in it) But I CAN tell you it was NOT a #0, nor was it sodium based. That much I can say with ABSOLUTE CERTAINTY. You seem to be under the assumption that you're the only person in the world that knows anything about grease, and this is incorrect.
I don't really have anything to tell you about "Tony", either.
There is no "secret grease". Sorry. There is no "warranty grease", no "trade secret".
Also incorrect is the assumption that a thicker grease will fling out of the joint and never return.
It just doesn't happen.
IMAG0059.jpg


IMAG0051.jpg

Does that look like it's "self leveling" as you like to say?

You are incorrect in this matter, frank.
 
Nope Rixxer

I am dead on,

This statement goes around in a big circle,

"I can't tell you EXACTLY what was used at the factory (brand name, or exactly what is in it) But I CAN tell you it was NOT a #0, nor was it sodium based. That much I can say with ABSOLUTE CERTAINTY."


Rixxer

If you do not know what the factory grease in no way can you say what it is or what it isnt,

As you have mentioned, "You do not know or care"

This fellow "Light of Bob" Folks is how and why Toyota Motor sales is able to dupe there own techs,

I can tell you the axles that I have inspected ( a few since day one)

All had a semifluid grease in them, #0 grade, and the recent pictures posted of a plenty full diff 3rd member and a rather low knuckle is proof that axle seal failure is no† causing this form of lube,

Very basic, axle seals do not fail, allow leakage and then re-seal themselves,
Just flat out dont happen,

It is like the ABS wires on that knuckle are controlling a valve that opens and closes to allow leakage back and forth as desired to fit whatever diagnosis Rixxer feels fit,

If what the Toyota salesman mentions wait whooo hold up here

Rixxer you are saying the knuckle grease is thinner, than it is not a #2

End of story,

What do we do now,

"I love what you do for me Toyota"
 
93 Chewbacca,


If your wondering at all why I have such a motivation to set this straight,

I accepted the challenge of your Benevolent Dictator "Woody"

2 years ago, and since been researching grease, studying this axle design,

Working to promote the correct information, and to take out the "Black Propaganda" Toyota machine that you guys suck up on a daily basis,

Inform you "Beloved Dictator" That I am over here on "The Light of Bob" taking apart his "Mushroom Factory" Brick By Brick,


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Quote:
Originally Posted by backwoodsgoop View Post
You do absolutly no good when you have your whell bearings repacked with lithium.
First, as I stated above, the TRUNION bearings and the BIRFIELD use the moly grease...the WHEEL bearings use normal MP grease.

Quote:
About the worst thing you can do to these things is not operate the 4x4 drive . The upper trunion bearing is usually what fails first because the lube isnt flung around in there without it in 4x4. occasionally operate 4x4. To insure it stay happy.

really.....4wd ONLY effects the grease in the birfield...the trunion is activated ANY time you steer the truck, and the wheel bearings anytime you move the truck. If you'd EVER seen the inside of a Toyota knuckle, then you would know there is zero chance of any grease being 'flung' to the upper trunion bearings.


Again, you prove that you've never seen a Toyota axle, worked on a Toyota truck, or have any clue what you are talking about.

I'm done - thread closed, you are banned.

__________________
Brian 'woody' Swearingen - IH8MUD.com - RockCrawler.com
 
Originally Posted By: IH8mush
Nope Rixxer

I am dead on,

This statement goes around in a big circle,

"I can't tell you EXACTLY what was used at the factory (brand name, or exactly what is in it) But I CAN tell you it was NOT a #0, nor was it sodium based. That much I can say with ABSOLUTE CERTAINTY."


Rixxer

If you do not know what the factory grease in no way can you say what it is or what it isnt,

As you have mentioned, "You do not know or care"

This fellow "Light of Bob" Folks is how and why Toyota Motor sales is able to dupe there own techs,

I can tell you the axles that I have inspected ( a few since day one)

All had a semifluid grease in them, #0 grade, and the recent pictures posted of a plenty full diff 3rd member and a rather low knuckle is proof that axle seal failure is no† causing this form of lube,

Very basic, axle seals do not fail, allow leakage and then re-seal themselves,
Just flat out dont happen,

It is like the ABS wires on that knuckle are controlling a valve that opens and closes to allow leakage back and forth as desired to fit whatever diagnosis Rixxer feels fit,

If what the Toyota salesman mentions wait whooo hold up here

Rixxer you are saying the knuckle grease is thinner, than it is not a #2

End of story,

What do we do now,

"I love what you do for me Toyota"

frank, it says it's an NLGI #2 right on the tube.
The wheel bearing says it's an NLGI #2 right on the bucket.
Yet the moly/moly graph stuff is thinner or softer, whatever you'd like to call it.
Explain how that makes it a #1, when it says #2 on it?
Is the NLGI wrong?
Is CRC or sta lube wrong?
Is castrol wrong?
 
Originally Posted By: Rix
Originally Posted By: IH8mush
Nope Rixxer

I am dead on,

This statement goes around in a big circle,

"I can't tell you EXACTLY what was used at the factory (brand name, or exactly what is in it) But I CAN tell you it was NOT a #0, nor was it sodium based. That much I can say with ABSOLUTE CERTAINTY."


Rixxer

If you do not know what the factory grease in no way can you say what it is or what it isnt,

As you have mentioned, "You do not know or care"

This fellow "Light of Bob" Folks is how and why Toyota Motor sales is able to dupe there own techs,

I can tell you the axles that I have inspected ( a few since day one)

All had a semifluid grease in them, #0 grade, and the recent pictures posted of a plenty full diff 3rd member and a rather low knuckle is proof that axle seal failure is no† causing this form of lube,

Very basic, axle seals do not fail, allow leakage and then re-seal themselves,
Just flat out dont happen,

It is like the ABS wires on that knuckle are controlling a valve that opens and closes to allow leakage back and forth as desired to fit whatever diagnosis Rixxer feels fit,

If what the Toyota salesman mentions wait whooo hold up here

Rixxer you are saying the knuckle grease is thinner, than it is not a #2

End of story,

What do we do now,

"I love what you do for me Toyota"

frank, it says it's an NLGI #2 right on the tube.
The wheel bearing says it's an NLGI #2 right on the bucket.
Yet the moly/moly graph stuff is thinner or softer, whatever you'd like to call it.
Explain how that makes it a #1, when it says #2 on it?
Is the NLGI wrong?
Is CRC or sta lube wrong?
Is castrol wrong?




I love what you do for me "Toyota"

Oh what a feeling,

Keep moving Forward towards the light Rixxer,
 
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