Never using a pureone again.

[Sayjac]

Actually the P1's I've cut open, 14610 and 14459, the pleats are not that deep at all, only ~3/8". Not deep compared to many others. And wavy media in and of itself means little.

Also, had one thoroughly read daman's measurements, a second measurement was done with the texture removed and the P1 was on par with many others, including the Napa Gold. Only the Fleetguard showed a major difference in can thickness.

But as has been said, don't like the P1 (obvious now, though not from initial post) don't use it, that simple. But, post a sensational thread topic, expect serious and critical response. The bottom line here is, neither the can nor the media failed.

 

[Letter_K]

Originally Posted By: sayjac
Actually the P1's I've cut open, 14610 and 14459, the pleats are not that deep at all, only ~3/8". Not deep compared to many others.


Just traded some of my extra PL10111 (think I called it a L1011 in previous post) for a few 14610s. The 14610 is built much thicker than the 10111. I'm sure it depends on the filter bought regarding the thickness of the can. I was checking the strength of the 10111 and just about put a dent in it. Would I call it week, probably not. I agreed with most everyone about being good bang for the buck.

Anyone know if you can tell the age of a Pureone by the code on the top of the filter? The only think I noticed was the center tubes holes differ when the 4th digit was different. A = smaller, closer spaced holes, B = larger, father spaced holes.

 

[wiswind]

Filters can vary from one number to another within the exact same manufacturer/model.

I have a P1 on my vehicle right now.

I have used WIX also and like them.
Nice thing about WIX, visit their website and you can read the specifications for the specific filter number that you are using.
It seems that you know that filter efficiency will vary between different filter numbers.
Read up on how to read their efficiency numbers.....they give a efficiency number at 2 different particle sizes.
2/20 = 14/31 means:
2 @ 14 microns = 50% at 14 micron particle size
20 @ 31 microns = 95% at 31 micron particle size.

using the table in THIS article http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/1289/oil-filter-efficiency

NOTE to the experts......if I got something wrong, please correct me.

Another filter that I like but have not used in a while is the Fram Extended Guard, which may be the next filter I use.

I use a filter that is longer than called for on my vehicle.....exactly the same, just slightly longer.

There are a number of things that can go wrong with a oil filter.....as mentioned, the point that will be more likely to fail is where the metal joins......a crimp seam.

If one does not like a product......then don't use it.
Does not matter to me if it is because they don't like the color.
Some are concerned about wavey filter media, others are not.
Some are concerned about a can the flexes more easily than another brand's can, others are not.
I am NOT qualified to make a conclusion on those factors, only an opinion.

Some on this site take pride in scoring oil / filters at the cheapest price.
Other's want what they think is best......most fall someplace in the middle.

I use Redline Oil, so I would not put myself in the cheapest price group, but respect others for the choice that they make.
I also like to hang onto a vehicle for a long time and many miles.....and not be concerned about breaking down along the road.

 

[ZeeOSix]

Originally Posted By: iunderpressure
The cutting edge on the tool cut through the p1 can scary easy and the p1 filter media was extremely wavy and the others weren't.

... not stopping me from using them.

 

[ZeeOSix]

Originally Posted By: iunderpressure
Their efficiency rating is a blanket statement based on one filter. Dome end by passes.


Just like most filter manufacturers.

 

[ZeeOSix]

Originally Posted By: crazyoildude
i think the p1 filter filters very good maybe too good that it restricts the flow a bit i like the classic better because of this i think it has better flow


Not enough to matter for 99.9999999% of the cars on the road. If a PureOne can flow 10 GPMs and only produce 4 PSID, I'd say it's pretty free flowing.

That flow data is supported by lab testing by Purolator.

 

[ZeeOSix]

Originally Posted By: iunderpressure
I agree with bigmike. The measurements of can thickness aren't fact. You could be measuring a rolled edge from cutting it open or the thick paint.


Did the can thickness measurements happen again in that thread after the paint was removed form all the specimens? (If I recall correctly without re-reading the whole thread).

 

[ZeeOSix]

Originally Posted By: iunderpressure

As far as me not backing my statements up with facts. Tell me what you want? I haven't stated anything like these filters don't work or don't filter. Everything I said is easy to prove. Go buy a rp, wix/napa gold, m1, and p1. Cut them open look for yourself. Well to see the wavy media you would have to use the filters first, and that depends more on the size of filter used.


The only reason the new media is wavy in some Purolators is because Purolator seems to use pleats that are a little too long for the center tube/end cap assy length. So when the filter is assembled, the media pleats get sandwiched a little too much and bend slightly. Purolator may do this on purpose to ensure there is good contact and sealing at the end caps.

Originally Posted By: iunderpressure
Denting the cans when I remove them. When I put oil filters on I dip my finger in the new oil and rub it onto the new filter's gasket. Then I spin the filters on and make 3/4 to 1 turn after the filter's gasket makes contact with the engine.


I've put on many filters by hand, including Purolator Classics and PureOnes ... have never dented them on installation or removal. Might be technique driven.

 

[ZeeOSix]

Originally Posted By: Letter_K

Anyone know if you can tell the age of a Pureone by the code on the top of the filter? The only think I noticed was the center tubes holes differ when the 4th digit was different. A = smaller, closer spaced holes, B = larger, father spaced holes.


If the code stamped on the filter was F06A08E2

Then 06 = Month, A = 2009. (B=2010, C-2011, ect.) and 08 = Day of Month.

June 8, 2009

 

[webfors]

Blanket statements are useless. Depending on the application I am willing to use almost any brand. For example, for the Subary H4 I really like the Purolator 14612. Every one I've opened up was just a perfect little filter. Frams? I'll use them, but only for certain applications. Wix, I will not use them for my application because you wouldn't believe how little media surface you get... it's shocking. Ecores... too much risk IMHO.

So, in conclusion, almost every filter has it's place depending on the application. Use what makes you feel good. That's all that counts really

 

[iunderpressure]

You give reasons why you like certain filters in your application, but then you say ecores are just too much risk. Is that a blanket statement or not?

I agree with whatever makes you feel good.

 

[Steve S]

Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
Originally Posted By: crazyoildude
i think the p1 filter filters very good maybe too good that it restricts the flow a bit i like the classic better because of this i think it has better flow


Not enough to matter for 99.9999999% of the cars on the road. If a PureOne can flow 10 GPMs and only produce 4 PSID, I'd say it's pretty free flowing.

That flow data is supported by lab testing by Purolator.
I get a kick out of the flow vs filtration postings.

 

[iunderpressure]

I wish I could see inside a filter while it was in use because I would like to know how much the pleats move around. I don't like wavy pleats because it reminds me of bending flexible metal, plastic, or wood. If you bend most materials back and forth they are going to get weak and break at that bend point.

 

[rslifkin]

That would be cool to know. They may simply expand and warp once they're saturated, or they may actually be flexing. Hard to tell just by cutting one open. I don't think I've seen any where the pleats have torn though.

 

[shpankey]

I just took out a Pure 1 cartridge filter from my car last night. I was having some weird sounds come from my engine and the car was consuming oil (GC). So at just 1500 miles I pulled the oil and filter last night. The Pure 1 oil filter has collapsed quite badly and I was in utter shock!

I'm going to make a thread and post the pics in it later today but to say I'm surprised is saying the least. I had utter confidence in their filters until now. No wonder I got all these so cheap at AAP ($2 a filter with the Pure 1 sale and AAP sale combo).

 

[glum]

Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
Originally Posted By: crazyoildude
i think the p1 filter filters very good maybe too good that it restricts the flow a bit i like the classic better because of this i think it has better flow

Not enough to matter for 99.9999999% of the cars on the road. If a PureOne can flow 10 GPMs and only produce 4 PSID, I'd say it's pretty free flowing.

That flow data is supported by lab testing by Purolator.

I trust the several "My car made valvetrain noise with a PureONE installed" reports I've seen, posted by people with presumably nothing to gain, over data published by none other than Purolator.

 

[rslifkin]

It's entirely possible that in some applications with smaller filters, the pureone may be a hair more restrictive, and just enough to cause noise. However, in vehicles with larger filters, it's not necessarily an issue. Mine and my mom's Jeeps both have no valvetrain noise with pureones (PL14670 on mine, PL30001 on hers). Both are fairly big filters, however.

 

[demarpaint]

I've been using the PL20195 and PL30001, in two Ford and one Jeep application w/o issue for quite some time now. I guess with mass produced items there is always the risk of an isolated problem. I will certainly revisit this thread though.

 

[Sayjac]

The last dissatisfied comment is about a cartridge filter which is a totally different design than the canister. Also, P1/Classic canister filters are made in US, not true of the cartridge filters.

But what the heck, while

with nothing but speculation ie., what could/might happen, might as well ignore any facts.

Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix

... not stopping me from using them.
+1 Great bang for the buck. I'll be posting pics of a cut open PL14610 with ~7k soon. Like last time, sure it will be grrreat.

 

[ZeeOSix]

Originally Posted By: glum
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
Originally Posted By: crazyoildude
i think the p1 filter filters very good maybe too good that it restricts the flow a bit i like the classic better because of this i think it has better flow

Not enough to matter for 99.9999999% of the cars on the road. If a PureOne can flow 10 GPMs and only produce 4 PSID, I'd say it's pretty free flowing.

That flow data is supported by lab testing by Purolator.

I trust the several "My car made valvetrain noise with a PureONE installed" reports I've seen, posted by people with presumably nothing to gain, over data published by none other than Purolator.


Without knowing the details of the situation, I couldn't conclude or say that a certain oil filter had caused more engine noise than another. Are we talking at initial start-up, or all the time?

I do know however, that unless the (positive displacement) oil pump in running at max pressure relief point, the oil pump is sending ALL the oil volume through the filter and engine ... regardless of how restrictive the filter is. This is why I can't believe the blanket statement claim that "X filter made my engine noisy".

I could only believe the claim if the ADBV was leaky and the filter emptied on an engine that was very sensitive to initial oil flow at start-up. That can happen with any oil filter if the ADBV is not sealing well.