I really can't believe that some cheap skate mofo will complain about paying for an oil change for a cam shoe replacement job. That is standard for a internal engine job like that. RevTech is Good oil too! Especially if it was the syn or pure. I personally use Amsoil but it's really just a name. If you think you know everything why didn't you spend the 200.00 bucks on specialty tools and do the job yourself! Whining about an oil change, I've heard it all now. Your local shop hates guys like you
Revtech 20W50 Conventional
- Thread starter budrow79
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I think the real problem with dealers is they cannot give you a out the door price to do a job. There are always extra charges and fees they tack on which always bump the price up, from what you were initially told it will cost.,
I'd think if it wasn't discussed up front before work begins, anything extra they should call for an okay. If they knew they were going to change the oil/filter, it should have been discussed or at least show on the estimate paperwork.
Although I have never tried RevTec oil, I haven't heard any bad about it.
I'm using Amsoil (20w-50) in one of my older bikes (97 Sportster w/SE package) and I'm finding it hard to get the oil temp up (3rd analog dipstick temp gauge). I can run it out on the highway for awhile and it doesn't want to get over 180F unless I run it harder.
I been thinking (at times) of a lower grade oil, especially for the winter season runs. I'm maybe wanting to try Rotella since I use the Rotella in the wife's Shadow and it has been good. It had the Rotella 15w-40, but now has the Rotella 5w-40 synthetic.
I was thinking of the Rotella in the Harley for winter, then Amsoil for warmer season. I know the OCI mileage will be low.
And I use the Sportster for most of my solo fun and town riding, save the Electric Glide Classic for mostly 2-up out of town runs.
Although I have never tried RevTec oil, I haven't heard any bad about it.
I'm using Amsoil (20w-50) in one of my older bikes (97 Sportster w/SE package) and I'm finding it hard to get the oil temp up (3rd analog dipstick temp gauge). I can run it out on the highway for awhile and it doesn't want to get over 180F unless I run it harder.
I been thinking (at times) of a lower grade oil, especially for the winter season runs. I'm maybe wanting to try Rotella since I use the Rotella in the wife's Shadow and it has been good. It had the Rotella 15w-40, but now has the Rotella 5w-40 synthetic.
I was thinking of the Rotella in the Harley for winter, then Amsoil for warmer season. I know the OCI mileage will be low.
And I use the Sportster for most of my solo fun and town riding, save the Electric Glide Classic for mostly 2-up out of town runs.
Originally Posted By: fuel tanker man
Roller lifters can gall the cam lobes when the oil traction is too low to allow the roller to roll... it rather locks and skates.
I thought this was Harley Davidson folklore until this article by Cummins diesel technicians proved it:
http://www.valvoline-technology.com/upload/dynamic/Diesel Engine Cam Galling.pdf
I think the Evolution engine has a better track record for longevity than the Twin Cams, owing to the cam chain tensioners breaking and wearing out.
Anyway, I like thicker oil film on my cam lobes. Just a preference I guess.
Dan
Dan,I thought the link was a little hard to follow but it seems to be saying that the synthetic oil did worse on these tests. I've had to rebuild an Evo motor because of lifter failure at 25,000 mi running Mobil V twin oil . I also have a newly rebuilt twin cam motor that spun a balancer bearing at 60k running VR1 50wt but it's hard to say if the oil had anything to do with the failures. I broke the new motor in on VR1 20/50 but have seen quite a few UOA's that don't stand up to Valvoline's claims of high ZINC/PHOS. Was wondering if you have seen any of these. I am currently trying out the VR1 synthetic but am getting lifter noise once the oil temp passes 210f. After reading the cam/follower test I am considering going back to conventional,since I can't find any UOA's on the VR1 synth. The wear metals are convincing on the UOA'S you have posted in the past but do you have any up to date info on the oils you use?
Roller lifters can gall the cam lobes when the oil traction is too low to allow the roller to roll... it rather locks and skates.
I thought this was Harley Davidson folklore until this article by Cummins diesel technicians proved it:
http://www.valvoline-technology.com/upload/dynamic/Diesel Engine Cam Galling.pdf
I think the Evolution engine has a better track record for longevity than the Twin Cams, owing to the cam chain tensioners breaking and wearing out.
Anyway, I like thicker oil film on my cam lobes. Just a preference I guess.
Dan
Dan,I thought the link was a little hard to follow but it seems to be saying that the synthetic oil did worse on these tests. I've had to rebuild an Evo motor because of lifter failure at 25,000 mi running Mobil V twin oil . I also have a newly rebuilt twin cam motor that spun a balancer bearing at 60k running VR1 50wt but it's hard to say if the oil had anything to do with the failures. I broke the new motor in on VR1 20/50 but have seen quite a few UOA's that don't stand up to Valvoline's claims of high ZINC/PHOS. Was wondering if you have seen any of these. I am currently trying out the VR1 synthetic but am getting lifter noise once the oil temp passes 210f. After reading the cam/follower test I am considering going back to conventional,since I can't find any UOA's on the VR1 synth. The wear metals are convincing on the UOA'S you have posted in the past but do you have any up to date info on the oils you use?
Im not sure how to take this diesil data?
But I have seen cam lobe wear develope with lighter weight 5w40 group iv oils on my 400 less than 25,000 mile, which saw sustained 7 to 9,0000 rpm normally.
Over all, I believe 15w40 is a very decent weight for water cooled bikes. It visocity seems to really hold up to high heat.
But I have seen cam lobe wear develope with lighter weight 5w40 group iv oils on my 400 less than 25,000 mile, which saw sustained 7 to 9,0000 rpm normally.
Over all, I believe 15w40 is a very decent weight for water cooled bikes. It visocity seems to really hold up to high heat.
I have tried every full synthetic MC oil in my Harley and after 1000 miles or so the engine sounds like I'm running a box of marbles?? When running conventional, Dino, quiet as a mouse. I now Pennz 20w50 MC or their GT 25W50 with great results.
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