Gunk Engine Oil Flush

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Junior96Stang

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I am about to hit 170k on my 96 Mustang, and I been looking into doing and engine flush. I saw some Amsoil flush the other day and it look very interesting. I also been looking into taking it to a shop. I been doing some research and I heard that some manufactures don't recommend a flush at all. So what can I do, a DIY, shop or leave as is.

Also I still get good engine pressure it's around 1'o clock if that helps.
 
Here is a nice read from another thread:

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=963846

I've used Amsoil engine & transmission flush in the engine of my Civic and Stratus before switching over to fully synthetic.

No problems with it and I noticed it got some grainy soot out. I may use it once in a blue moon still or if I feel like my engine could use a tune up at oil change time etc.

GUNK seems to be okay, but I do believe it's on the conservative side.
 
The LG product is good, Kreen is good. Or just run a qt of MMO in place of 1 qt of oil your next OCI and clean the engine using that. Run it for 3000-4000 miles and change to your favorite oil.
 
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
The LG product is good, Kreen is good. Or just run a qt of MMO in place of 1 qt of oil your next OCI and clean the engine using that. Run it for 3000-4000 miles and change to your favorite oil.


+1 This covers it all. Any one of these is a good option, I can vouch for each product w/ no problems. I have no idea how Gunk works, just the word Gunk makes me want to keep it away from my engine. They make OK degreasers though.
 
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
The LG product is good, Kreen is good. Or just run a qt of MMO in place of 1 qt of oil your next OCI and clean the engine using that. Run it for 3000-4000 miles and change to your favorite oil.


But I thought additives where a big No! No! on this site. Is that MMO stuff really works. Why will that be any difference from Lucas Oil, or any other additives like Gumout. I'll look into the Marvel Mystery Oil. Look interesting.
 
Originally Posted By: Junior96Stang
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
The LG product is good, Kreen is good. Or just run a qt of MMO in place of 1 qt of oil your next OCI and clean the engine using that. Run it for 3000-4000 miles and change to your favorite oil.


But I thought additives where a big No! No! on this site. Is that MMO stuff really works. Why will that be any difference from Lucas Oil, or any other additives like Gumout. I'll look into the Marvel Mystery Oil. Look interesting.


?
 
hundreds of threads on it here. cheap and effective. Its basically red dyed straight 60% 5wt oil and 30% solvents. The rest is up for debate. It helps me in winter for cold weather starts . My car has a bad cold weather knock and it keeps it under control. The car has 292000 miles.
 
I am with Pablo, why do you think you need an engine flush. If you used synthetic oil, that should have kept it clean. If you use a flush and you have gooey sludge you should be OK. But if some of sludge has hardened, you take the chance of loosening a chuck or flake and have it clog an oil path back to the pan.

The safest bet is to use Auto-Rx. It take a little more effort than just dumping in some flush before an oil change. But it will clean slowly and better than any flush.

If I wanted to use a plain flush, I would use the Amsoil flush. Also if you started to use synthetic oil that will start to clean things.
 
Originally Posted By: Pablo
Why do you need an engine flush?


+2 Why do you think you need a flush? My 1990 4Runner has over 200K and is very clean (had valve covers off last summer to check clearance)...it's had regular oil chnages its entire life - 3K OCI with dino by the PO (I bought it because of the service history) and 5-6K OCI with synthetic since...

The 4Runner doesn't need a flush...you don't give a reason why you think your engine needs a flush...

Do you see signs of sludge? Neglect by the PO? Oil itself keeps the engine clean...and I wouldn't go pouring solvents into the engine without a reason...
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Donald
I am with Pablo, why do you think you need an engine flush. If you used synthetic oil, that should have kept it clean. If you use a flush and you have gooey sludge you should be OK. But if some of sludge has hardened, you take the chance of loosening a chuck or flake and have it clog an oil path back to the pan.

The safest bet is to use Auto-Rx. It take a little more effort than just dumping in some flush before an oil change. But it will clean slowly and better than any flush.

If I wanted to use a plain flush, I would use the Amsoil flush. Also if you started to use synthetic oil that will start to clean things.


I haven't start it using synthetic oil yet. I am still using High Milage oil. Any car can take Synthetic oil just like that, and once I used it I have to keep using it right?
 
You tell me?

34ownk1.jpg
 
Dude, that looks fairly clean, but you may want to pull the valve cover off to be sure. If it looks like the relatively clean metal through your filler hole there, you are just fine.

The slight off color looks like oil that is still coating the surface.
 
Originally Posted By: Junior96Stang

I haven't start it using synthetic oil yet. I am still using High Milage oil. Any car can take Synthetic oil just like that, and once I used it I have to keep using it right?


No, you can use any oil you want to within spec. Synthetic or not, the question is once you go synthetic why go back? If you got a great deal on a HM or conventional, maybe once in a while. That's what I do, and I also used HM oils b4 going to synthetic. Just because I don't know how the previous owner treated the car and don't have experience dropping the oil pan.
 
If i were you i would stay as far away from that gunk engine flush as you can.
I used that garbage in 2 of my cars years ago a 1985 chevy cavalier 2.0L and a 1987 buick summerset 3.0L put it in idle for 15 minutes then drain and refill with fresh oil and new filter and for some reason those 2 cars found a nice resting spot in the local junk yard due to a bad engine.
If you want to clean it use 20% marvel mystery oil it works good i have been using it since the mid 1990s with no issues and no blown engines.
 
Originally Posted By: Ironduke4
If i were you i would stay as far away from that gunk engine flush as you can.
I used that garbage in 2 of my cars years ago a 1985 chevy cavalier 2.0L and a 1987 buick summerset 3.0L put it in idle for 15 minutes then drain and refill with fresh oil and new filter and for some reason those 2 cars found a nice resting spot in the local junk yard due to a bad engine.
If you want to clean it use 20% marvel mystery oil it works good i have been using it since the mid 1990s with no issues and no blown engines.


20% out of the 32oz bottle. will that mix well with High Milage oil.
 
Originally Posted By: Junior96Stang
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
The LG product is good, Kreen is good. Or just run a qt of MMO in place of 1 qt of oil your next OCI and clean the engine using that. Run it for 3000-4000 miles and change to your favorite oil.


But I thought additives where a big No! No! on this site. Is that MMO stuff really works. Why will that be any difference from Lucas Oil, or any other additives like Gumout. I'll look into the Marvel Mystery Oil. Look interesting.


Go to the oil additive site and search all of the engine cleaners, they have been discussed. Make a decision based on that.
 
Your engine looks clean, but it could still benefit from some cleaning. If there are any deposits on your piston rings, some Auto RX would help clean them. A run of some Red Line 5w-20/5w-30 would do a lot of cleaning, too.
 
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