Amsoil OE 5w30 - 7,022 - 1998 Toyota Camry V6

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Artem

Artem

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Previous UOA thread can be found here Amsoil OE 5,600 Miles


The oil was kept in the car and ran an additional 1,300 miles

At the previous sampling, NO make oil was added to insure accurate results.

I'm quite happy with how the oil held up.

The reason i changed it now is because i replaced both valve cover gaskets as well as an oil pan gasket.

I'm doing a 2,500 mile mini flush with OE 5w30 to clean out any dirt that could have gotten into the system as well as a little clean up... at 200k i plan to put in Amsoil XL for a 10,000 mile run.

CamryAmsoilUOA7000miles.jpg
 
The bearing wear is a bad sign, but honestly that thing has so many miles I wouldn't say it's like the motor is about to die prematurely.
 
how does it run? smooth/quiet?

....also, i know its fun but you are spending a lot more dough than you need to changing the oil on that old car. no offense intended. its a constant struggle for me.
 
Originally Posted By: dparm
The bearing wear is a bad sign, but honestly that thing has so many miles I wouldn't say it's like the motor is about to die prematurely.



Seeing an this is the 3rd report, is it safe to say my bearing are calling it quits? The amount of wear is concerning but it will not stop me in my quest for extended OCI in this particular car.

I'd be happy if i get another worry free 50k out of the Camry at which point I'll be getting another car for business purposes.
 
Originally Posted By: Pablo
I'll admit - I'm baffled by the Pb. What oil was in at the 190K mark?

Everything else is the duck's nuts.


Mobil 1 0w-30 AFE

Before that always regular M1 5w or 10w30 depending on weather conditions.
 
Originally Posted By: Santo Fontana
how does it run? smooth/quiet?

....also, i know its fun but you are spending a lot more dough than you need to changing the oil on that old car. no offense intended. its a constant struggle for me.


She runs Extremely good and smooth. There's some ticking and light clunking at cold idle (but what engine doesn't make noise in those conditions) other wise the engine rev smooth all the way to its 6,200rpm Redline which i frequently visit on my road trips.
 
Originally Posted By: Santo Fontana
id try something thicker and see if pb improves.


...nothin like an old engine that still runs good.
smile.gif




That's probably a good suggestion. I would go with the XL 10W-40. Same price as the other XL's.
 
Originally Posted By: Pablo
Originally Posted By: Santo Fontana
id try something thicker and see if pb improves.


...nothin like an old engine that still runs good.
smile.gif




That's probably a good suggestion. I would go with the XL 10W-40. Same price as the other XL's.


I would run Amsoil 5w30 (ASL) and see what happens in this sludge prone engine. Keep the EGR and PVC clean......The price is not much more then there XL oil...

Then again I have run 0w-20 of Amsoil in TX for years..Trying there SSO to see how it does
 
Would a thicker oil really make a noticeable difference?

The engine sees a lot of cold morning starts and i prefer a thinner, OEM spec weight.
 
Originally Posted By: Artem
Would a thicker oil really make a noticeable difference?

The engine sees a lot of cold morning starts and i prefer a thinner, OEM spec weight.


The thicker oil especially in a 10W-40 might do more harm than good in the cold. If you were going to use a 40 grade oil I'd use either a 0W-40 or a 5W40. If you aren't using much oil in that old engine I'd stick to mfg specs and try a different oil all together and see if PB drops. Or just keep doing what your've been doing till she quits! Which could be a very long time from now. JMO
 
Originally Posted By: Artem

....the engine rev smooth all the way to its 6,200rpm Redline which i frequently visit on my road trips.


I think we partially solved the Pb issue.

Artem you live in Florida, correct? I see no issue with you going to a good Group III 10W-40. Plus some areas have 10W-40 as a recommended viscosity for that engine. I'm not saying for sure this will lower your lead, but probably won't hurt given your driving habits and engine age.
 
Originally Posted By: REDDOG
Any fuel additive/injecter cleaner use?


Practically none. My MPGs ave the same on my highway trips (28-31 with a loaded car) so i don't see the point in any cleaners anymore but i have ran some Redline fuel cleaner when the engine was new-er and recently some Amsoil PI at around the 170k range just for kicks and jiggles.
 
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: Artem
Would a thicker oil really make a noticeable difference?

The engine sees a lot of cold morning starts and i prefer a thinner, OEM spec weight.


The thicker oil especially in a 10W-40 might do more harm than good in the cold. If you were going to use a 40 grade oil I'd use either a 0W-40 or a 5W40. If you aren't using much oil in that old engine I'd stick to mfg specs and try a different oil all together and see if PB drops. Or just keep doing what your've been doing till she quits! Which could be a very long time from now. JMO


Yea i don't see the point in the 40 weight. half the time the engine doesn't reach OT when its driven very short trips. I think i'll stick to the 5w30.

I like the fact that Amsoil provided better ppm/mile protection vs the M1 i used in the past, so i'll stick to it for now.
 
Originally Posted By: Pablo
Originally Posted By: Artem

....the engine rev smooth all the way to its 6,200rpm Redline which i frequently visit on my road trips.


I think we partially solved the Pb issue.

Artem you live in Florida, correct? I see no issue with you going to a good Group III 10W-40. Plus some areas have 10W-40 as a recommended viscosity for that engine. I'm not saying for sure this will lower your lead, but probably won't hurt given your driving habits and engine age.



You really think my "pedal to the metal" driving is the cause of the bearing wear? and not some natural degradation of the metals?

I'm very interested in seeing how long the engine will last under these conditions but i'm afraid i might trade the car for something newer / more efficient in a year or so.

I'm sure even with the Copper and Lead wear, the engine will keep going to 300k with proper maintenance.
 
Originally Posted By: Artem

You really think my "pedal to the metal" driving is the cause of the bearing wear? and not some natural degradation of the metals?

I'm very interested in seeing how long the engine will last under these conditions but i'm afraid i might trade the car for something newer / more efficient in a year or so.

I'm sure even with the Copper and Lead wear, the engine will keep going to 300k with proper maintenance.


A heavy foot can show up in the Pb department. Not always, and not certain, but it happens. I'm not worried at all about your engine "esploding", because of 15ppm Pb. I'm just working with you to coach the lead down a bit. If you lived in a cold place, I'd really hesitate on the 10W-40, but a new age Group III or IV 10W-40 - no problem, seriously.
 
If that is with lead foot driving, the numbers look great for a higher mileage engine.

I'd also give a 0w40, 5w40, or 10w40 a run. Warm location, lead foot, old engine, sludge monster, big engine in little engine compartment.... might benefit from a dose of viscosity(even if you only add a quart).

The XL, which is a step above OE, should make the 10k OCI doable.
 
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