Amsoil 5w40, 4,856 miles. 2008 Mazdaspeed 3

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Ok, this is not mine but a fellow member of the same car forum as mine. He's having a fuel dilution problem and is also worried about the high sodium, since blackstone comments on it possibly being coolant (though his potassium is not high, so I'm not sure why they says that??). This has been the same oil since 27k miles. Amsoil 5w40. Not sure what happened at the 37mile marked uoa (lab error on the low add pack?). Total miles on car is 52,147 and miles on oil is 4,856. The car is a 2008 Mazdaspeed 3 with a Direct Injected 2.3l Turbo and a manual 6 speed transmission. Input from the experts is VERY greatly appreciate! Anyhow...

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/forum/at...-oil-e41290.pdf

He knows I'm positing it over here as he's needing some advice from more expert hands than mine. Also, I've already asked him all the standard questions and pulled as much info about driving habits etc and so I'm going to cut and paste all of his relevant replies to those for you to read below...

Quote:
the last three UOA's from blackstone have registered a higher amount of sodium. 22ppm @ 42k miles, 30ppm @ 47k miles, and 28ppm @ 52k miles. before that it was less than 10.

blackstone's comment is that sodium can indicate presence of antifreeze since my oil does not contain any sodium that they are aware of.

i've kept an eye on my coolant and it's still clear/clean. my last oil changes haven't seemed funky, the oil is just dirty as always. i tested my compression within the last few months and it was around 180 across all cylinders.

any thoughts? i'm not sure where i could be getting coolant into my oil. i had a thought that maybe a blown turbo could mix oil and coolant, but i honestly don't know. the fact that my coolant is still clear doesn't help, unless it's possible for coolant to get into oil and not the other way around.

Quote:
i've been running Amsoil 5W-40 since 27k miles, and i ran Seafoam thru the vac system right before the most recent oil change and the oil change at 42k miles. blackstone believes that neither amsoil nor seafoam have any sodium.

they said that wear metals have increased a little, and the fuel level was higher. i'm not sure why the fuel suddenly increased, unless the cold winter temperatures (it's been 0-20* lately) make it harder to burn the stuff off after it washes down the cylinders.

i've been watching my coolant for months now, and it was unchanged at the Full level for quite awhile. it did just drop recently, maybe 1/2" in the reservoir, but such a sudden drop seemed strange to me, so i am wondering if the dealer messed with it when i took it in recently to have my serp belt tensioner adjusted. i was going to continue keeping an eye on it to see if it drops again.

Quote:
i have been doing a lot more idling to warm up the motor, and trips have typically been shorter. highway time and longer drives have tapered off, and i've been doing a lot of quick trips here and there. the fuel increase does not come as a surprise, but i agree that 4% is more than i'd like. fuel dilution has come across on every analysis done on this car, but the analyses have seemed OK and engine health seems OK too, so i was thinking i was OK. blackstone's comment was that the viscosity and fuel do not seem to be affecting my motor.

i did NOT do a solid highway burn before this last oil change. i picked up some seafoam, ran it thru the vac system, and did a solid 15-20min drive at varied speed to burn it off. then i promptly changed the oil while it was still warm and sampled mid-stream, as instructed. since it has gotten cold i've spent a lot more time idling, and i have been doing shorter trips as opposed to longer ones since moving to my current location, which was in July 2010.

the service @ the dealer was adjusting my serp belt tensioner and evaluating my rear struts. obviously not related to the cooling system, but my coolant level had been holding steady at Full for months and suddenly dropped right around the time the Mazda monkeys were [censored] around with it.

i do not yet have an account with Bitog, but i'm clearly not as on top of this as i thought. i didn't notice the missing additives at the 37k run! i rely mostly upon their commentary, which might not be the best approach.

i'll have to see what i can do in terms of getting a cheaper synthetic and using that instead, at 3k intervals.

question - would more frequent highway runs burn off more fuel and therefore reduce the viscosity damage, or is the presence of fuel at all enough to prevent me from running 5k miles between changes?

also, i've been running an upgraded HPFP since april or so of 2010, and i just put in a new one in december that cranks out even more pressure - 1800+psi at WOT. i would imagine that higher fuel pressure could affect washdown on the cylinders.

Quote:
Update on the coolant - it was "low" by maybe 1/2" a week ago, then i topped it off, now it's "high" by 1/2". [censored]. idk the dynamics of coolant, but it was about the same temp. outside both times and the engine was fully warmed up both times. so i guess i wasn't losing coolant, more like some coolant was hiding.

So it seems unlikely that i'm losing coolant, unless it's a tiny tiny bit. I will have to see what the next UOA comes back as, perhaps it is the oil. I have been running Amsoil 5W-40 for 25k miles now, but perhaps the last few lots have had trace sodium in them.

The ambient temp during the last change was less than 5*, which mightve made the fuel even worse than normal. I have yet to do a change when it's that cold, and this winter is prolly 15* colder than past places I've been in with the car.
 
Start typing shpankey!

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-Dennis
 
With that much fuel dilution. I would tell him to try Redline 5W-40. It seems to do a better job holding its flashpoint and viscosity in VW DI engines.
 
That oil is shearing, too. Look at how the flashpoint dropped. It's either getting very contaminated or it is not strong enough for that kind of motor.
 
what affect, if any, would Seafoaming the car right before the oil change and sample collection would have on the oil? Would that be cause for even higher than normal fuel in the sample?

Also you will note above he mentions it being even 15 degrees colder in his area than this time of year, so it's quite cold overall. He also said there were a lot of short trips, in fact mostly those, along with a lot of idling.

The thing is, he has a current fill of this same oil in the car and would like to run it out to 5k again, but change his driving habits to eliminate as much of the idling as possible and to include some long 30 minute highway runs occasionally to try and burn off contaminates... and to also do a better highway run before sampling. His most concerning issue was the sodium, but my question is, would this not have potassium in it if it was coolant? He confirmed this was just regular Prestone 50/50 as he had done a swap out of the FL22 Mazda fluid awhile back.

So what he wants to do is run this oil out and sample again with the better driving habits. Is this safe to do considering these UOA's or is it bail out now time and try a different oil? My suggestion was T6 as it has a well documented history of great UOA's on this engine for the Mazdaspeed's. But like I said, he wants to know about the sodium and if he should bail now on the Amsoil 5w40 or if it's ok to run out again and resample with the new driving habits (?).
 
It was mentioned to me that apparently our cars never get really hot enough to burn off fuel with the low temp thermostat at I think 180 or 190. One guy with an oil temp gauge says on long highway runs it never gets above 170 in his car, even with him driving it hard, and usually hovers at 150. So not sure how to burn off fuel or what temp it takes for what period of time to do so. I have seen a lot of UOA's of this car without seeing one with this kind of FD problem over this period of time. Is there anything that can be done, knowing this?
 
With a 180 thermostat it still should be getting warm enough for the oil, do these guys have any cooling fan modifications done?


Also what mods have been done to the car? Any chance a ring has started to let go?
 
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I don't know if I've ever seen a Blackstone flashpoint that low before. Even with the variability in flashpoint measurements, that is low. My understanding from the experts is that even the unwritten rule of "run at 20-30 min. at highway speed before taking the sample" is not enough to get rid of the fuel. I understand that really hard uphill climbs can do it or driving at 120mph for example. I am sure it would vary by engine though.

If the OP wants to stay with Amsoil, perhaps DEO would be the one to try? Perhaps Pablo or Gary Allan will chime in on this thread for recommendations.
 
Holy geez, fuel dilution! That could be the source of sodium, fuel is slaughtering that oil. I like AMSOIL but with dilution like that you just need to save some money and get rotella 5w40 or the like. Change at 4k like you have been doing.
 
Not sure on all the mods, if any. I do know he commented he just recently did a compression test and it was at 180 on all cylinders. Though no leakdown test. Maybe he should get one??
 
People are recommending all kinds of oils when the problem is fuel dilution and other issues. Find the problems and correct them. Sure run a lower cost oil while you work on it, no problem there. And, yes I would have probably started with DEO 5W-40 in this engine - if I knew all this stuff going on:

"ran Seafoam thru the vac system right before the most recent oil change"

"i have been doing a lot more idling to warm up the motor, and trips have typically been shorter. highway time and longer drives have tapered off, and i've been doing a lot of quick trips here and there."

"i did NOT do a solid highway burn before this last oil change. i picked up some seafoam, ran it thru the vac system, and did a solid 15-20min drive at varied speed to burn it off. then i promptly changed the oil while it was still warm and sampled mid-stream, as instructed. since it has gotten cold i've spent a lot more time idling, and i have been doing shorter trips as opposed to longer ones since moving to my current location, which was in July 2010.

the service @ the dealer was adjusting my serp belt tensioner and evaluating my rear struts. obviously not related to the cooling system, but my coolant level had been holding steady at Full for months and suddenly dropped right around the time the Mazda monkeys were [censored] around with it."

"Update on the coolant - it was "low" by maybe 1/2" a week ago"

I'm really thinking it was wise to change the oil after the Seafoam. Sucking it right into the intake probably cleans pretty well, but I think a lot of it and fuel goes into the oil.

All this I must ask - why direct Seafoam a relatively new car with 50K??? Usually this is reserved for gunked up high mile engines.
 
It's a direct injection thing. lol Intake valves get very dirty very fast on these cars and people are still working on better more long term solutions. Seafoaming is kind of a cheap way to help keep things a bit as bay.
 
Originally Posted By: shpankey
It's a direct injection thing. lol Intake valves get very dirty very fast on these cars and people are still working on better more long term solutions. Seafoaming is kind of a cheap way to help keep things a bit as bay.


Good point. I would love to see some before and after shots!! I also wonder if the black roux being cleaned off could contribute to other issues, maybe sodium caught in the goo or something.
 
Quote:
People are recommending all kinds of oils when the problem is fuel dilution and other issues. Find the problems and correct them.


Agree.
 
Lots going in here. I'd look to solve problems first. Also mentioned early on in the thread was this: QUOTE- "Not sure what happened at the 37mile marked uoa (lab error on the low add pack?). That's a red flag to me right there. I'd send a sample to another lab and be certain the report is in fact correct. Lots of time can be wasted barking up the wrong tree because of a bad report. JMO
 
Cold weather, short trips, and extra idling to warm the car up = extra fuel dilution. Pablo is right on.

Not sure what "extra" idling is, but it would be wise to only let the car "warm up" for
This user is a good candidate for more professional services than he'll find here.

jeff
 
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Another oil that handles fuel dilution very well are brad-penn high performance oils - I'd try 'Penngrade 1' 10W-30 or 10W-40 in it.
 
Ya he said he would cut out the idling and try to limit some of the short trips and work in some highway time and run another UOA. As he said, he wanted to cut out one problem at a time. I told him I thought the oil actually held up well under the conditions, but recommended using a cheaper oil at shorter durations until the root of the problem could be found. Something like a good HDEO that could be had fairly cheap at WM and is known to hold up well in this car under FD and turbo like T6 or even a conventional like Delo or Delvac. Not that this oil didn't, just that seems like a waste to run Amsoil on such a short run under these conditions where a cheaper oil and shorter runs seems like a good bandaid until the issue could be found.

If you notice in his quotes he asks about his high pressure cam driven fuel pump upgrade and if that could cause more fuel to wash down the cylinder walls and polute the oil. It not only has a higher pressure but moves a larger volume at that higher pressure too. Could this be contributing?
 
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