2011 Hyundai Sonata 2.0L Turbo - Oil type.

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In the service manual for the 2.0L Turbo, it states

5w30 or 5w40 , must meet API SM and ILSAC GF-4

Is there a 5w40 that meets both of these?

Owners manual also has a "Recommends Quaker" symbol in it.

I'm located in Canada so please try and help with an oil available here.

Thanks!
 
AFAIK ILSAC oils are energy conserving. there may be some 40 weights that meet everything but the fuel efficiency requirements of ILSAC. I could stand corrected though.

In either case, SM ILSAC seem weak for a turbo...
 
Does it make a difference that this engine is direct inject with turbo?

if there isn't a 5w40 that has both of these certs, which 5w30 do you recommend that has them both?
 
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Renewable Lubricants has some good 0w30 and 5w30 oils. IIRC the 0w30 is energy conserving but it is not API certified.
 
I wonder if any of the HTO-06 or BMW LL-01 oils meet SM (surely) and GF-4 (Not sure). The LL-01 ones are suitable for power-dense DI turbo engines, and the HTO-06 are likely going to be very turbo suitable and more likely to offer ILSAC capability.

But that is where Id start looking as those are specs for oils that are designed for turbo applications.

I dont know of any 5w-40 oils suitable for all that, unfortunately, but Id look at whatever PCMO 5w-40 oils that are out there... BC? Ultra Euro? Valvoline?

Id substitute M1 0w-40 in there readily.

Given the power density (this engine is putting out 274hp from 2L, right?), Id be looking for a high level of robustness. This density equals a lot of heat and stress on a very small area, and this may cause issues long-term. Id want robustness over a FE design, and at minimum something like the HTO-06 which should take some of that into account in a thinner oil. A3 perhaps as a consdieration too...
 
Those PetroCanada Supreme Synthetics are SN/GF5 and available in 0w30, 5w30, and 10w30. Also, they have Duron-E in 0w40, 5w40 and 10w40.

Any 'full-synthetic' available at all your locals stores are worth looking into.
 
i have this exact same car! and running into the same concerns.

5w-40 is not readily available in stores. online prices are kinda steep with shipping. i ended up with PU 5w-30 with a P1 filter. so far its keeping the engine running smooth and happy. im not sure about m1 0w-40, but after having m1 5w-30 in there and not liking it that much, i decided to not use m1 in this engine. and plus, im keeping to the manufacturer suggested 5w-30 if 5w-40 cant be found. sure 0w-40 will be fine, but then at least if something goes wrong, i can say ive used 5w-30 the entire time.
 
Originally Posted By: NateDN10
It doesn't need anything crazy like Rotella 5W-40 or M1 0W-40. A 5W-30 synthetic like M1 or PP will do the trick nicely.


Define crazy? RTS 5w-40 is cheaper than M1 and PP, IIRC. At least price parity.

M1 0w-40 is no more costly per quart than 5w-30, and holds a lot more specifications that are relevant to DI, turbo and highly power dense engines.
 
Originally Posted By: poiuy223
im not sure about m1 0w-40, but after having m1 5w-30 in there and not liking it that much, i decided to not use m1 in this engine. and plus, im keeping to the manufacturer suggested 5w-30 if 5w-40 cant be found. sure 0w-40 will be fine, but then at least if something goes wrong, i can say ive used 5w-30 the entire time.


What didnt you like about it? I always find this funny as I imagine it is more placebo effect than anything.

a 0w-40 is perfectly replaceable for a 5w- oil wihout fear of issue from the manufacturer. They in reality specify a 30 or 40wt oil. They give a 5w- as a necessary spec so that you dont run a straight weight or a 15w- hdeo. a 0w is a better spec and is interchangeable.
 
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Originally Posted By: poiuy223
im not sure about m1 0w-40, but after having m1 5w-30 in there and not liking it that much, i decided to not use m1 in this engine. and plus, im keeping to the manufacturer suggested 5w-30 if 5w-40 cant be found. sure 0w-40 will be fine, but then at least if something goes wrong, i can say ive used 5w-30 the entire time.


What didnt you like about it? I always find this funny as I imagine it is more placebo effect than anything.

a 0w-40 is perfectly replaceable for a 5w- oil wihout fear of issue from the manufacturer. They in reality specify a 30 or 40wt oil. They give a 5w- as a necessary spec so that you dont run a straight weight or a 15w- hdeo. a 0w is a better spec and is interchangeable.


i didnt run any tests or do any analysis but i can tell you from actual driving feel that i notice an improvement. m1 was already good over what was originally in there, but the engine generated more noise when using m1. when PU was switched in, the engine revved smoother. thats all i can tell you from hands on experience.

im thinking of using quaker state a try next change. its $7/jug cheaper than PU.
 
I'd be calling Hyundai Canada and get them to clarify the recommendation - there is no such thing as a GF-4/5 5W-40 oil, only 30-weights are energy conserving.

If they can put this kind of a 'trap' in an owners manual, imagine how badly they can screw you on a warranty.....
 
If it were mine I'd run Rotella T6 in it.

If I didn't run Rotella T6 in it, I'd run Mobil 1 0w-40.

If I didn't run Mobil 1 0w-40, I'd run... heck, who knows.

I would most certainly run T6 in it.
 
I appreciate all of your answers and thank you for responding!

I will be going with PP 5w30 , thanks again.

Below is the portion from our owners manual. Please note this is for the 2.0 TGDI engine. You can see clearly they have *1 noted next to the 2.0 TGDI in the chart which is defined as "For improved vehicle performance, it is recommended to use the engine oil of a viscosity grade SAE 5W-40(API SM / ILSAC GF-4). However if the engine oil is not available in your country, select the proper engine oil using the engine oil viscosity chart "


oil1e.jpg
 
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